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  1. #1
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    Cool Eliminator Daytona Bottom Question

    I have seen a LOT of people on this site who have had Eliminator Daytona style boats. I am specifically referring to those of the 21-foot variety but have noticed several of the 25+ length boats the center pods were modified/cut/shortened and this has me curious as to what the designed idea here is.

    I have taken into consideration this hull was originally designed for a fat & heavy big block with a jet pump. I am thinking that cutting the center pod, removing the curved crescent and adding a step similar to a Mirage bottom might break this hull free of the water a bit more while increasing the turning capability. Another gain I see is not having to use so much set-back as most Eliminators with outboards have.

    Any thoughts on this?

    THANKS!!

  2. #2
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    Tango, I can’t speak specifically on the 21, but I do have a 23 I’m finishing rigging after a 5 year restomod, including notching the pod.

    I noticed that every picture I saw of a fast Daytona had the engine(s) trimmed up. You’ll practically never see this on a true tunnel with no pod, they’re normally level or slightly tucked under at speed.

    After doing some measuring on mine, I discovered the pod has 3 more negative angle to it than the sponsons, and it also was 1-1/2” lower than the sponsons at the transom. This is similar to dragging a tab angled down at speed, good for holding the nose down, bad for speed. After discussing this with one of my friends I used to race with, he suggested notching the pod. I followed his advice, and also blueprinted the bottom, as the internal bracing I installed on the resto pulled the bottom at every brace.

    I basically removed 153 lbs worth of flotation. My concern is if it will induce a hop, we shall see. After questioning the owners that recently had two different 23’s with similarly modded bottoms for sale on here, they had no hop, but one did notice planing harder with a load. I’m hoping to be able to try mine very soon.

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    If if you look at the 25 Daytona, the whole pod is raised, and the newer DCB’s are raised as well.

    I’m of the same belief as you, crazy setback is necessary on a stock pod to overcome the negative angle of the pod, resulting in a lot of extra power required to overcome that drag. We’ll see how it all works out!
    A problem is only a problem when viewed as a problem...

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  4. #3
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    I had an STV before this Eliminator and the pod on it was flat with the sponsons. It was a bit lower and like the Mirage before that... all flew perfectly on the pad with the "Training Wheels" balancing the hull on the pad. Unfortunately the Daytona has a rake in the pod and a drop with the Worx Racing side sponsons kit. Many drag racers use these to decrease planing time and launch.

    I have yet to flip the boat over, and now that I have more time to prep for next year... I am a bit frustrated that I already closed off the pod with floatation foam and new bulkheads. So I will have extra work to undo what work has been done, but I feel the changes will fix some design issues. I have had several conversations with those at Eliminator about my boat and the design of the boat back in the 1980's was originally for a BB Chevy mounted 26-inches ahead of the transom, and pump extending the thrust nozzle 24 inches beyond the transom. When you consider a marine version of a BBC weighs about 650# and the pumps weigh around 250# with all parts included. The CG of the Daytona with such a setup is completely different than running with a 500# outboard sitting 18" behind the transom. The outboard version can do nothing but fly bow high when running WOT trimmed in.

    Here is Ron Hill racing my boat back in 1986/87 era. The V8 is trimmed in and clearly so but bow high as the center pod lifts the bow. In the cases of a big block, they fly a bit flatter but nowhere as level as an STV or Mirage.

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