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Thread: 1978 Viking rebuild
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03-18-2019, 09:58 AM #121
Picture below is how I did my center stringers with a seat box, just to show you how far I carried them forward. I changed up the front Vee bow support from whats pictured. (made two small bulkheads instead, keeping them on the core I carried all the way up)
Keep in mind, your floor will determine stringer height as I am sure you have already thought this through.
But you can still do a seat box like Outasite (Bob) has shown you, and carry your floor from the seat box back to transom or as far as you want. I considered this in my first mock up design. I used the foam boards like you to make templates and get a real visual...
The seat box gives some storage that production V-Kings don't have.
I actually got all my stringer measurements from Outasite (Bob). He was kind enough to take pictures and measurements and put up with my hours of quizzing him about his V-King Competition boat.
Thank you Bob !!
Just some food for thought.....that's one thing I love about fiberglass....One can be so creative with it....
Great build you have going on here....
James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King
Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761
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03-30-2019, 03:22 PM #122
Well it's been a week since the last update. I have the stringers finished and in the hull. If I were to do it over agin I would skip the whole laminating two pieces of 1/4" plywood together and just gone with some 1/2" and saved myself a ton of work and supplies. Although they do seem very strong, best as I can tell by breaking up the scraps that got trimmed off during final fit up.
I laid a 4" strip of 1708 on top of the core and on the transom where the stringers will sit. I used a marine adhesive to secure the stringers to the hull rather than a Cabosil/milled fiber paste, taking that advice from the folks at Express Composites. It seemed to work pretty well, it was a lot easier that's for sure. I'll still have to mix up some resin paste to make a nice fillet along the edges. I'll begin tabbing them in this coming week. I think I'm going to grab some peel ply for this step since I won't be able to scuff some of the areas between layers of glass.Last edited by tnelsmn; 03-30-2019 at 03:26 PM.
'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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Hippie459MN, outasite liked this post
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03-30-2019, 03:29 PM #123
Having some troubles posting. Anyway, I also brought home the original interior along with the rest of the rigging. The seats will be going back in like this since I'm running out of time before summer. The bases have been rebuilt, but everything else is just as it left the factory in '78. Planning to rebuild them with composite next winter to try and get back some of the extra weight I put in the hull.
I also found that my steering cables are frozen solid, at least trying to move them by hand. This is reaffirming my thoughts of hydraulic steering.Last edited by tnelsmn; 03-30-2019 at 05:15 PM.
'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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LMT383 liked this post
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03-30-2019, 07:51 PM #124
I have always loved those back to back seats.
Also agree the hydraulic steering is the way to go...
Rally nice work going into this !!James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King
Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761
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03-30-2019, 11:06 PM #125'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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04-01-2019, 03:40 PM #126
Here's a shot with all the supports off the stringers. Just started the process of tabbing them in.
'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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Hippie459MN, W2F a V-King liked this post
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04-01-2019, 04:39 PM #127
Looking great! Stay the course
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tnelsmn liked this post
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04-03-2019, 12:23 PM #128
Maybe a silly question ?
I've seen some videos of people doing stringers and gapping them from the hull with a small piece of styrofoam about every 12 inches so the stringer doesn't sit directly on the hull.
Everyone I see on here just beds them in a thick mixture then continues from there
Just curious ?<> God is great , Beer is good , Boaters are crazy <>
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tnelsmn liked this post
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04-03-2019, 05:13 PM #129Screaming And Flying!
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Most guys here are putting the stringers on top of core. So not directly on the hull. I am a little confused as to why the stringers are stopping at the 3/4 point in the hull?
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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04-03-2019, 05:56 PM #130
I've never had a boat with a core and have always just set the keel/stringers directly on the skin and glassed them in. I've also never bedded them in with putty...always thought it was the 90* edge that was the strength not the bedding and I have never heard of using a marine adhesive to bed in stringers...that's new to me. It does seem a little odd to run the stringers only 3/4 of the way up and not to a bulkhead and in some cases not even a keel is used. I'm learning new stuff all the time.
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tnelsmn liked this post
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04-03-2019, 06:46 PM #131
Every Hydrostream I have seen, the stringers only go 3/4 the way up or a little further up the hull and not all the way up under the bow. Maybe the comp hulls are different. I dont know. Mine stop right at the seat area then I have a foot well area then the air box or whatever you want to call it up in the bow.
Also, when I redid my Vulture, we redid it just like it was originally, stringers on the hull with the core in between. I suppose it could be done either way and Hydrostream did it both ways. Now my Vector just has core and a hollow fiberglass tunnel/stringer than looks like it was used more for a floor support than anything.
-Kevin
Project Vulture | Project Vector | Project Vamp | Project CobraJet
1977 Hydrostream Vulture - Worlds longest ongoing project.
1982 Hydrostream Vector
1982 Hydrostream Vamp
1973 Hydrostream Vixen
1976 CobraJet Jet Boat - Outboard conversion project
199? Glastron - aka Boat Anchor
1976 Pontoon - aka The Family Truckster
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tnelsmn liked this post
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04-03-2019, 07:00 PM #132Screaming And Flying!
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1st pic your stringers do go fwd. (Outer ones) If they go fwd like that then they do the job. Some of the box stringer boats have a low triangular floor fwd of the main floor. (like mine) I made a short stringer to go fwd under the fwd floor pc. And have the foam boxes that go fwd till they terminate. I always say that everyone does it their way. No dispute on the method. If that is your way then it is right.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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Hippie459MN liked this post
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04-03-2019, 07:03 PM #133-Kevin
Project Vulture | Project Vector | Project Vamp | Project CobraJet
1977 Hydrostream Vulture - Worlds longest ongoing project.
1982 Hydrostream Vector
1982 Hydrostream Vamp
1973 Hydrostream Vixen
1976 CobraJet Jet Boat - Outboard conversion project
199? Glastron - aka Boat Anchor
1976 Pontoon - aka The Family Truckster
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04-03-2019, 11:24 PM #134
I'll be the first to admit that I don't know what I'm doing. This is my first time doing any type of work like this. I come from a background in metal fabrication. I sincerely appreciate the help this board has provided and would be completely lost without it. I'm mostly trying to put this thing back together the way it was when new, just with better workmanship. I'll try and clear up how I made some of my construction decisions.
The outer stringers are actually longer by about 5-6" than the factory ones I cut out. The original stringers stopped short of the transom by about 1" and stopped about 4" further back from where the new ones stop. These are also about twice as tall. I'll attach some shots of the old ones.
The center two have added length where they step down for my foot well. I wanted to run them much further forward but it wouldn't really be possible to create a foot well. By the time these stringers would be at the front of the foot well they would be less than 1" tall. The original centers stopped at the front edge of the main floor. Looking from the transom forward you can see the witness marks where they were originally. I will be building a front bulk head of sorts at the front edge of the main floor.
I set the stringers on top of the core seeing as thats how Outasite's comp hull was built from the factory. This also seemed like it would make the core instal easier for me.
The adhesive isn't the only thing holding the stringers in. I have two layers of 1708 to go down tabbing them in and wrapping over the top. I was advised to use the adhesive from my fiberglass supplier. They stated that the strength of the stringers is transferred to the boat through the glass holding them in. Not what was bonding them to the hull, the adhesive was more to keep them in place while the glass work is done. Made sense in my head I guess.
I hope this didn't come off as really defensive, just trying to explain what my thought process was.
Thanks, Tony.'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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04-04-2019, 04:54 AM #135Screaming And Flying!
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The factory built them a bunch of diff ways, seeing what would work best. So, we can too. I'm sure yours will be plenty stout with the core and glass that has been added. Along with the stringers to the transom. I tend to over build stuff, so I am always looking to make stringers longer and add glass where there wasn't quite enough before. For example my transom in 3'' thick. Overkill? You bet...But that's how I do glass work. I have run 3.0 mercs on mine and jump it quite often. It had to be x-tra tuff to survive my abuse. And I knew that when I re-built it. Looking fwd to seeing vids of yours running. It is a great feeling to be done and using it after all the hard work.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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tnelsmn thanked for this postDanUmbarger, Hippie459MN liked this post
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