1978 Viking rebuild

[outasite]

Like XV said, What I've been doing is use a piece of poster board taped to the outside of the hull for shape and doing 90% of the repair on the inside.Try one layer let it cure,clean and sand then you can let it rip! Three four five layers at once.Just keep your mix correct and a good amount of heat to cure.For small areas a trouble light at the proper distance works well. BTW A big thanks to "James WTF a Vking!" Telling me about using bakers partchment paper for nonstick forming,and wetting out glass ,Thanks James!

[TwzteD]

Awesome project, sweet boat, how long is it? It is a lot of work to rebuild a boat like this but very rewarding once you start seeing a lot of progress. I'm so impatient and don't have a lot of time to finish mine with a 5-month-old, working Saturdays selling my house and building a new one but I can't wait! I would have gone with some composite material but looking good! Wish I saw this thread sooner. That jig looks awesome, I should have made one for my bullet but the hull was super thick to begin with and felt it didn't really need one as long as it was propped up with the pad sitting flush on the flat floor.

[tnelsmn]

Awesome project, sweet boat, how long is it? It is a lot of work to rebuild a boat like this but very rewarding once you start seeing a lot of progress. I'm so impatient and don't have a lot of time to finish mine with a 5-month-old, working Saturdays selling my house and building a new one but I can't wait! I would have gone with some composite material but looking good! Wish I saw this thread sooner. That jig looks awesome, I should have made one for my bullet but the hull was super thick to begin with and felt it didn't really need one as long as it was propped up with the pad sitting flush on the flat floor.

Thank you! It's 18'. Luckily with my work schedule I have lots of time off so I can make some decent progress on it. The jig is working well so far, this hull is quite thin so I was pretty concerned about keeping its shape. I've crossed the point to where there's forward progress now which is a great feeling. I've been following along with your Bullet project, that this is going to be sweet!

[tnelsmn]

Made some more progress over the weekend. I'm calling the patch work complete, I have 3-4 layers of CSM over all the holes. It feels pretty solid. I'm still planning to lay in 1708 over the exposed glass on the transom and core area before the core and transom go in.

Also cut the wood for the transom. Found some 7 ply marine grade at a local lumber yard. I drilled 1/8" holes on a 2" grid to allow for excess resin to push through when I put it together. Scuffed both sides with 36g on the DA, wetted both pieces of wood with resin, then laid up a wet layer of CSM, Had parchment paper(tanks for the tip) of either exposed sides and sandwiched it with a few hundred pounds of dumbbells. Now I need to fit and prep the plywood to go in the hull. Planning to wrap the entire block of wood with 1708 before it goes in. I'm probably a bit over kill with the layers of glass.

[outasite]

Looking good,You've still got some scratching ahead,but your kinda over the hump.

[nitro_rat]

I use clear packing tape to back up a lot of my work. After the glass sets up you can peel it right off! For larger areas I just use multiple layers. If you're careful and work the wrinkles out it makes a good "mold."

[tnelsmn]

Kinda felt like I haven't made a lot of progress the last week or two. Finished patching all holes and such. At this point the only hole left in the hull is the plug. Walked around the Minneapolis boat show to try and get some ideas, just a bunch of pontoons and surf boats. Picked up some 1708 and laid it over the transom skin before the wood goes in. Now going to wrap the wood with some 1700 and set it into the hull. Should have that done next week. Here you can see the mat laid in between the two boards. Even after trimming just an 1/8" off I can't get it to break at the glass joint, just keeps breaking the wood.
I did go talk with the shop I used to work for and they seem convinced that they can form new trim, to match the original, with a press break. I'll post the results of the test pieces they come up with.

[TwzteD]

Damn how thick is that wood? You going to wet out some glass between each layer of ply?

[tnelsmn]

Damn how thick is that wood? You going to wet out some glass between each layer of ply?

3/4" ply. Theres a layer of mat between the two. Current plan is to wrap the wood in 1708 let it cure, then lay up a wet layer of mat between the wood and the hull and clamp it all in. Also going to mix up a paste of carbosil resin and put that along the bottom and sides of the transom before it goes in to ensure there's no voids.

[rjdubiel]

Just my opinion, but I would put a layer of the 1708 between the transom hull and transom wood. Run it about 10 inches or so out on each side and clamp it in and do the fillets with thick resin. Dont wrap the wood first. Then once it sets you can do a few layers over it and go out wider than the transom wood again. Just my opinion as the resin will get sucked up from the wood and you will have a real nice bond to the hull

[DanUmbarger]

Not sure there is a right way or wrong way but what I did on my Hustler restore is mixed up resin with milled fibers then finished thickening it with cabosil and puttied and clamped the transom in place and filled the bottom void with the same putty. After that cured I glassed it in with two layers of 1 1/2 oz mat and one 24 oz roving...mat,roving,mat then an extra layer of two mats and one roving around the outer edges. Do you think this is good or should I do the mat version on my current tunnel project?

[XstreamVking]

Transom skin should be 1/4'' thick glass. Bond the board pc with wet mat and some putty along with it to insure a complete squeeze out to the edges. Drill some 1/4'' holes in the wood (every 4'') to let air escape when bonding. (goop squeezing out of them proves complete seal) Clamp or brace or screw the wood to transom and let cure completely. Cover with a couple of lays of 1708 with added glass where the motor bolts thru. This is my usual method of doing a transom. Never had one fail.....

[tnelsmn]

The transom wood went in yesterday. Followed advice here and didn't wrap the wood first as was my initial plan. I love this place, thanks guys!

So my procedure went as follows: used a 3/8" radius router bit and went over all edges of the transom and scuffed all surfaces with 36g on a DA. Coated the wood with a heavy coat of resin and let that soak in while I put a heavy coat of resin on the skin. Then laid up 1.5oz wet over the wood and over hung it by 2" or so. Had some carbosil thickened resin(peanut butter) and put a good 1/4" along the bottom and sides of the hull where the wood will fit in. Then stuck the wood in and clamped it down with some home built extra long Jorgensen style clamps, made from 2x4's and 5/8" threaded rod. Once it was clamped I worked the excess resin and carbosil paste out with a squeegee and wetted out the remaining glass onto the hull that was hanging beyond the wood.

Seems like it had a good squeeze since I had a decent amount of resin press out through the top, bottom, and sides. I forgot to drill some small holes through the wood to allow excess resin to press through in the center of the wood, like Xstream stated above, wish I caught his post before starting. I did that when I put the two layers of plywood together, but it somehow slipped my mind when doing this step.

If I were to do it over agin I would, drill some small holes through the transom to allow air/resin to escape. Also, I would put the carbosil paste on the hull before wetting down the hull with resin. Seemed like that carbosil wanted to keep sliding around on top of the resin.

Next I'll be filling the remaining voids on the sides with some carbosil paste so the glass will lay down well and then laying up the layers of 1708 across the front tying everything in.

Wish I took a few more pictures once I had the carbosil in place. But time flies with the resin so...

[rjdubiel]

Looks great! I had to fill a void on my transom. You can hear the open area when tapping on the outside of the hull. Usually at the very bottom and that was where mine was. Easy fix if ya find a void. Wish I put some holes in mine as well but.....

[tnelsmn]

Made a little more progress. After cleaning up the excess resin that came out from setting in the transom I went back with some carbosil to fill the remains voids around the edges and make a nice radius around the bottom. I filled the areas in all at once. I suppose some spots were an inch deep or so. When I checked this morning the larger spots cracked once they cured.

Should I have done this in a few stages so it didn't go in so thick at once?

Carbosil was mixed into my polyester resin and the hardener was added at 1-1.25%, air temp was 72 and turned up to 78 after completing the work and left there overnight.

What am I doing wrong?