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  1. #46
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    That's the finish you want,rough and porous and clean. I would recommend a good scrub with acetone just before your first coat.Looking good!

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  3. #47
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    I would go at least 36 grit. 24 and 16 grit are available, I would go 16 grit if I could. You want the most "tooth" so the new resin can "bite" the old as it will be a "mechanical" bond rather than a "chemical" bond.
    Josh Peterson

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  5. #48
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    Im new to boat cores but done a ton of body work/paint. Use to have a body shop years ago. Best tool for stripping down glass smooth without eating through it is one of these imo

    Click image for larger version. 

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    We use 5" and 6" dia disks in 26 and 36 grit and when you want to feather you cut 2" long flats around the perimeter so its octa shaped and it softens it right up, makes blending nice. These things are VICIOUSLY fast RPM and loud as hell so if you get one be sure to only use properly rated disks and backers. Whatever you do dont be tempted to put stones or other grinding disks on one of these it will grenade everywhere. I use the speed control to dial up/down after its loaded as Im working it so not to over rev it. They work very well and make fast work of stripping glass and bondo down with tooth, and flat. Dont sit still keep it moving and blending
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  7. #49
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    Used the Cutz-all wheel and removed what was left of the old core. Just have to remove and clean up what's left of the old repairs and the bottom is ready to start going back together. Then onto removing the transom and outer stringers. Slow and steady progress.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_5282.jpg   IMG_5283.jpg  

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  9. #50
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    Looking good!

    Have you been tracking your hours on this by any chance?
    Hydrostream dreamin

  10. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by LakeFever View Post
    Looking good!

    Have you been tracking your hours on this by any chance?
    Yes, keeping track of hours and all money spent. I don't know the amount of hours that my brother has into it years ago doing the initial removal of the floor and core.

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  12. #52
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    I'd love to know the hour breakdown at two points;

    1 once your stripped and prepped
    2. When your done the rebuild

    Would be a big help when i plan a sched out for mine. I gotta yell ya this and the other resto thread of that drag hull are super fun to follow along. The only thing Im wondering is why I didnt join S&F earlier, this place is awesome

    Hydrostream dreamin

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by LakeFever View Post
    I'd love to know the hour breakdown at two points;

    1 once your stripped and prepped
    2. When your done the rebuild

    Would be a big help when i plan a sched out for mine. I gotta yell ya this and the other resto thread of that drag hull are super fun to follow along. The only thing Im wondering is why I didnt join S&F earlier, this place is awesome

    Sure, I'll add hours and money spent along the way at milestones. I've been on the site for a decade, since we started this project, just didn't post much back then. Never thought I'd be posting a build of my own. I'll try and hep any way I can.

    As of now the only totals I know are for the cradle. Approximately 27 hours and $300.

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  15. #54
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    Finally made some more progress last night. Work schedule and the holidays kept me away from the boat for almost 10 days.

    Both upper stringers are cut out and the port side is completely cleared out and ready for new. Removed the factory repair on the port side near the front of the floor, below a few layers of glass was almost 1/2" of just resin. Ground all that out until I could see the color of the gel coat coming through.

    Also started removing some the previous glass work laid years ago. The stuff popped right off the top layer of factory glass. It appears they never ground/prepped the factory finish before laying new glass. This just re affirms what I've read many times. This is a mechanical bond, not chemical. The surface needs to be prepped. There's also a lot of excess resin from when they were putting in the transom that ran down the transom across the back of the core and settled into the pad area. This has been aggravating to remove. Still working at that.

    Here's a few more shots.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_5298.jpg   IMG_5299.jpg   IMG_5300.jpg  
    Last edited by tnelsmn; 12-27-2018 at 12:30 PM.

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  17. #55
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    Nice work! And it IS a lot of work for sure.

    But will be worth it when done!
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

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  19. #56
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    Made a bit more progress over the holiday weekend. I've removed all glass that was added years ago. That was pretty easy for the most part since the hull never got scuffed, it just popped right off with a putty knife.

    Removed the transom that was replaced ten years ago, it was soaking wet when it came out.

    Removed almost all excess resin that drained into the pad area from when the transom was installed.

    Just a bit more prep feathering out the holes in the bottom and taping them off from the outside. New glass should be going down in repair areas within a week.

    Here's some more pictures.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_5305.jpg   IMG_5306.jpg   IMG_5308.jpg   IMG_5309.jpg   IMG_5310.jpg  

    IMG_5312.jpg   IMG_5314.jpg   IMG_5316.jpg  

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  21. #57
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    Nice work, it will be worth it in the end!
    Josh Peterson

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  23. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitro_rat View Post
    Nice work, it will be worth it in the end!
    I sure hope so! This is some ****ty work. But I enjoy working on a project so its not all bad. Gives me something to do with my free time. I can't wait to see this back in the water with all its glory haha.

  24. #59
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    Slow and steady progress. Passed a hurdle for myself by laying down the first layer of glass into repair spots. First time in my life doing fiberglass work. Wasn't as bad as I was expecting. These are just the first of a few layers of csm I'm planning to lay in the repair areas. My thoughts are to do 4-5 layers of csm overlapping each layer with the next being an inch or so larger all on sides.

    Is it ok to lay up multiple pieces of csm over each other and just waiting for one cure time? I watched a guy on youtube lay up four layers of glass at one shot. Or should I continue with my plan to DA sand with 36g between each layer after allowing 24hrs of cure time? I figure for my novice self this would get me into less trouble.

    Hours so far, 30 into disassembly and prepping for glass work. Keep in mind I didn't start with a complete boat. Floor, center stringers, and most the core was already out. I did have to remove some previous repairs.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_5327.jpg   IMG_5330.jpg   IMG_5332.jpg  
    Last edited by tnelsmn; 01-10-2019 at 03:29 PM.

  25. #60
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    Either way will be fine. I do a 1st piece and let it harden then build up with several layers. Avoid any air pockets and sand smooth after it hardens.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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