1978 Viking rebuild

**scott reierson** · 06-29-2021, 08:53 PM

Mr Nelson,

I owe you a PM reply...

Before any mods. Give the old girl a chance

Have you run some Mercury power tune through it yet? If you haven't already, you might want to consider it. I've seen it work many times in situations like that. It might shake the rings and reciprocating internals loose and bump the comp.

Careful on the timing bump. If you don't want to pull & CC the heads...Might wanna stick a fat piece of solder in a plug hole and run it up to TDC to check the piston to head clearance. Maybe someone put fat head gaskets in it a or set of loose bigger CC heads in case the previous guy wanted to run 87

For skiing, Back in the day we ran the motor down and ran something like a 22 lazer or SS 3 Blade ski prop. Didn't need the Doel fin.

The 100lbs will help roll it over on plane but will slow it way down. May also create some scary handling problems. Also, If your dragging the doel fin in the water at speed that is not a good idea.

Everyone above is trying to help. These boats are lightweight fliers and take time to learn. They don't run like normal boat. You won't believe it the first time you get it right.

Power tune
Check your heads
Take out weight
Take off the dole fin training wheel
Set the prop shaft right
Bolt on a 26 or 28 Chopper and learn to fly

Check plug color after a hight RPM run. Take off the cowl first. Take a rag, gloves and your plug wrench. Take a speed run and fly it. Plan to shut it down quick and safe in a small shallow bay. Don't idle it around. Pull the plugs right there. They will be quite warm. Pull them all and note what cylinder they are from. Take a picture of all them with your cell phone. Show us how they look. Now your Streamer

I'll send ya a PM

**mrichartz** · 06-29-2021, 09:05 PM

Oh yea forget to mention that..but Scotts right take the foil off and take out the extra weight..
You will get the hang of it with seat time and probably quicker than you think..
The foil is slowing you down and the weight in front when you start flying the boat that weight in the bow can really throw you off quick..plus make it that much harder to get it flying etc...you should be able to just run the motor trimmed in if you don't feel like you have enough? Wedges maybe?

**tnelsmn** · 07-01-2021, 12:37 AM

The weight I added to the bow are dumbbells. Only there when skiing, I pull everything out when going for speed. Except the fire extinguisher and maybe a bottle of water.

**tnelsmn** · 07-04-2021, 06:22 PM

Well it finally did it! 70.7 according to the Garmin in the boat, the GoPro still only shows 69, but I'll trust the Garmin chart-plotter to have a better internal GPS. Not sure if it was the extra 1.5 degrees timing advance I put in it, the weather/conditions, or running with other go fast boats for a change haha. Running the same 26 chopper I repaired previously.

Thanks for the great video, RJ!

**mrichartz** · 07-04-2021, 06:24 PM

A little timing can do alot and can go along way.

**Hippie459MN** · 07-05-2021, 11:28 AM

Originally Posted by tnelsmn

Well it finally did it! 70.7 according to the Garmin in the boat

What model Garmin is that?

**tnelsmn** · 07-05-2021, 01:09 PM

Originally Posted by Hippie459MN

What model Garmin is that?

EchoMap Plus 43cv

It's a great little unit. I have it with Lake-vu so it has all the maps preloaded. Running a glue down through hull transducer.

**tnelsmn** · 07-23-2021, 11:18 AM

I've been talking about it for a while, but it's finally happening. Hanging the ProMax on it! Rigging is about 75% completed at this point.

All thats left is to run the harness and splice it into the old control box, and hook up a few things on the engine, temp and trim senders, etc.

Just have a few loose hoses and an empty barb that I'm not sure what to do with. I believe it has to do with the oil injection delete but I'm not sure. All my research has been on carb motors for the last year.

The fitting in the block has the hose I'm pointing at looks like it would've gone to the open barb up by the starter. This hose is plugged. The hose going off the top of the barb goes to the top of the oil tank. The other hose off the barb looks like it would reach to the other side of the block, this is plugged as well.

Should I leave all these as they are? What were they for?

Tony.

**rjdubiel** · 07-23-2021, 11:38 AM

looks like a 15 inch mid without the lower! OR is it???

**tnelsmn** · 07-23-2021, 11:45 AM

Originally Posted by rjdubiel

looks like a 15 inch mid without the lower! OR is it???

It's a 20" it looks a lot shorter having the cowl skirt on, and not having the lower on.

**LakeFever** · 07-23-2021, 12:22 PM

There is no drool face smiley here but im drooling, that mota is clean! How much setback on the jackplate there? Looks like maybe less than 4"?

**tnelsmn** · 07-23-2021, 01:14 PM

Originally Posted by LakeFever

There is no drool face smiley here but im drooling, that mota is clean! How much setback on the jackplate there? Looks like maybe less than 4"?

Thanks, Lake! This thing is super clean, I need to borrow RJ's DDT scanner so I can pull the hours. I bough it from the original owner and he guessed 200hrs or less.

The Atlas plate is a 4" set back.

**rjdubiel** · 07-23-2021, 03:00 PM

No problem. Swing by anytime or I will be out Sunday morning if your in town

**tnelsmn** · 07-25-2021, 05:24 PM

Rigging is complete for the ProMax!

Went out last night and ran it with a 19p prop we've always ran for skiing. Haven't tried one of my big props yet. That will happen this week and I'll report back. But man, this has some power out of the hole!

This thing was pretty much completely stock except the oil injection was disabled. The pump and tank was still there. The oil tank and pump as well as the idle stabilizer box were removed. The trim relays and harness was also removed since the trim and jack plate relays all set up inside the hull.

Edit: I said earlier that I spliced the new harness into the old control box, that was a bit misleading. I pretty much just had to swap out the key switch assembly and tie in the trim buttons and neutral safety. I wired the original overheat buzzer into the new harness in place of the new buzzer. Kinda going crazy over mixing old and new. The "trailer" and "choke" buttons are no longer functioning. I was planning to use the choke button for the enrichment circuit in the ECU, but I found this ECU doesn't have an enrichment.

I had to open the hole a touch as the new key switch is just ever so slightly larger than the original. Even went so far as to tie the old school key float to the new key.