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Thread: 1978 Viking rebuild
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11-30-2018, 05:11 PM #31
If you decide to pull the deck completely off, the sides of the hull flex a bit as well. Maybe consider tying the gunnels together. Quick and easy...
I used a few 2x2's cut to proper width, attached them at different places along the hull to deck flange, to keep the sides from bowing out...cause they will some (mine did at least). And they didn't really get in the way at all working inside the hull.
Then remove as you bring the deck back on to the hull.James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King
Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761
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11-30-2018, 05:45 PM #32
That’s good advice. The hull is very flexible once the deck is removed!
Josh Peterson
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tnelsmn liked this post
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11-30-2018, 06:15 PM #33
That is my plan, to completely pull off the deck. How did you attach the 2x2's? Did you just screw through the hull and fix the holes later?
I've thinking of adding one more sheet of plywood 24" closer to the bow from the last one shown. That would have 12' of the hull supported.
Thanks fo all the advice everyone!
Just re read your comment, did you place 2x2's across the top once the deck was off? That makes more sense.Last edited by tnelsmn; 11-30-2018 at 06:31 PM.
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11-30-2018, 07:50 PM #34
If you wait until the deck is off you will have already lost the shape. I would do it first and screw through the sides. Make sure to fit the boards closely so that they don't preload the hull and push or pull it when you cut the cap loose.
Josh Peterson
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NICE PAIR liked this post
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11-30-2018, 08:34 PM #35
I measured the distances from the deck mounting flange/flat surface (upper half) across the openings and then using these measurements, pulled the hull in by the edges and screwed the 2x2's directly to the hull screwing up through the flange/flat areas into the 2x2's. The end result was my hull with no deck, setting exactly as wide as it is with the deck on. But now open and easy to work in.
In hind sight, drilling small holes and adding eye bolts for ratchet straps "before" separating the deck would be easier (very similar to Nitro's suggestion) to set the 2x2's in place before relaxing the ratchet straps.
I am working by myself (boat not done yet), so when I removed my 2x2's to refit the deck, the hull did bow out a small amount. Maybe 1/2" or so both sides.
I am working by myself so I had to drill 3 sets of small eye bolts along the hull tops near the flanges, (from just behind mid-ship forward almost to the bow) with a short 2x4 (iirc) on the outside of the hull like a big washer to spread out the load. I used 3 small ratchet straps to pull and hold the sides back into position to fit the deck back in place.
If you have someone to help you, this may not be necessary.
When I am on the final finishing stages of glass work along the deck to hull seam where the rub rail will be, then is when all those temporary holes get filled and finished out.
And your hull may not flex much at all... And not need any of this.
I'll dig up some pictures and post them if you like, don't want to side track your restore thread.James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King
Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761
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NICE PAIR liked this post
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11-30-2018, 11:03 PM #36
I looked at your restore thread on the other site, I've read it before, but never noticed the 2x2's. I think I'll add some wood to my cradle that fits perfectly to the side of the hull to hold the shape as well as some boards across the top. Thanks for the advise! That's why I'm trying to document so much of this, to have others who've been there before me catch stuff I'm missing.
Last edited by tnelsmn; 12-12-2018 at 05:50 PM.
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W2F a V-King, NICE PAIR liked this post
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12-10-2018, 11:59 PM #37
Quick update of where I'm at, finally finished the cradle and got everything sitting upright. I have 2x6's on edge supporting the strakes and a piece of 3/4" aluminum plate supporting the flat surface of the pad. Taking the advice from a few here I spent a little more time and added some plywood to fit the sides exactly so it won't deflect when the deck comes off.
Tonight I started the cutting to separate the deck. I needed to remove the front piece of trim before cutting. It's too bad that can't really be saved and reused in this process. Does anyone know of anyway to redo the factory style trim? I'm sure that's been asked 100's of times... But I really like the look of the factory trim.
I made it around the front of the hull back to the dash before stopping due to the time and not wanting to anger close neighbors with my air tools. I should have the deck off tomorrow.
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12-11-2018, 07:49 AM #38
Very nice cradle. You could probably turn that into a mold lol
Hydrostream dreamin
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12-11-2018, 09:53 AM #39
That is hands down the best cradle support system I've seen yet!
Of all the threads I've read on Stream restores, yours is the most elaborate.
I don't know how molds are made, but LakeFever is right...That's almost a mold !!
As far as the rub rail and saving it, I don't recall reading many threads that it was salvaged. There are many options in the aftermarket though that look nice and are functional.James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King
Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761
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12-11-2018, 12:36 PM #40
It is possible to remove the rail wihout further damaging it. The best way I've found is to grind each rivet down until it's almost flush with the rail. You can then drill the remainder of the rivet out. It helps to have at least one helper to manage the sections once they're loose. some painter's tape can also help support the sections once the rivets are loose. Therail material is very soft and easily flexed/broken! Good luck if you try to save it!
Josh Peterson
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12-11-2018, 05:04 PM #416000 RPM
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Since you are obviously very talented by the looks of the cradle, have you given any thought to putting the deck back on w/o a rub rail like some of the Skaters and DougWrights do? Not really practical but looks awesome.
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tnelsmn liked this post
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12-11-2018, 06:05 PM #42
Great job on your jig! Most times the rail cannot be saved.The couple I've done when the decks were joined resin pushes out behind the rail and does a fantastic job of glueing it to the hull.Your holes are easy fixers.Tape a poster board "patch" tightly to the outside after you grind the inside to a feather taper,then layup the inside with multiple patches each one slightly larger than the last.when your done,flip it lightly grind and patch the outside,and your done! You are going to have a rare wonderful ride when she's done.There are many builders here,that are more than happy to help ya.
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tnelsmn thanked for this post
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12-11-2018, 11:19 PM #43
Thank you very much for all the responses and guidance!
I know this fixture seems really overkill, I just can't get over how flimsy the hull feels without a core. I can't see how sitting in the elements for 10 years unprotected couldn't harm the glass somehow. I'm afraid to get inside the hull for fear of stepping straight through the glass. I'm a big guy at 275lbs.
After grinding and drilling all the rivets on the rail, I started working it off the boat. As was stated above there was a lot of resin that pushed trough and glued that thing on. It's mostly in one piece, but it's beyond being saved, and frankly I'm not sure of the condition of the rest of rail that was removed by my brother 10 years ago. Looks like I'll have to go another route. I'm planing to use this as fun runabout and ski boat so the functional rubber rub rails probably wouldn't be all bad. I don't want to risk running it without a rail of some sort.
Progress from today; deck is completely separated and just waiting to be moved to a storage spot in a friends garage. Then work continues on the hull.Last edited by tnelsmn; 12-11-2018 at 11:23 PM.
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12-13-2018, 09:53 PM #44
Little more work completed today. The deck has been moved to temporary storage. I removed what was left of the core and began cleaning up the bottom. The front 12" or so of core wasn't rotten
Question I'm asking myself now is the spot where I've been grinding on the hull cleaned up enough as far as removing the old core and such? If not, do you think I should switch from the Cuts-All carbide disk over to some 36g on a DA? The last picture is a close up of what I'm talking about. Thanks!
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12-13-2018, 11:24 PM #45
Everybody has their own way of walking, but imo, what worked for me the best in the exact same spot your in was a 6" fender grinder and #40 disks...I say disks because I went through a small stack of them.
Change them often and save yourself some unnecessary extra work....A 4" angle grinder with 36-40 grit works well too. I used both. A good rough "Clean" finish is what your after. I tried my DA, but didn't have anything heavier than 80 grit, and imo that isn't aggressive enough.
Your bringing up some itchy memories.... Rock on...your breezing right on through very well !!James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King
Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761
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NICE PAIR, DanUmbarger liked this post
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