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Thread: 1978 Viking rebuild
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08-06-2020, 02:15 PM #346
Interesting re the clamp and trim. Regarding installation I scoured a ton of threads and this seems like the best way to mount the clamp
Do as follows, it will never leak.
After the holes are drilled, go 2 sizes up and drill again. Chamfer the edges on the inside and outside of holes.
Get the transom warm, 80, 90, 100 degrees if possible. Use heat lamps overnight, or whatever to make it happen. This opens the pores of the wood. Use standard, unthickened, and unthinned west system epoxy. Use the slow hardener in a 5:1 ratio as this will allow more wet time for the epoxy to soak in. Use q tips, pipe cleaner, paint brushes or whatever that does not leave residue in the holes and start wetting out the holes,.... And keep wetting. The wood will stop drinking up the epoxy, but then go back in 5 minutes, and the gloss will be gone, and this means the wood has sucked up the epoxy. Apply more. (keep the epoxy away from the heat lamp and keep it shallow or it will kick off quickly. The epoxy will be somewhat syrupy as you apply but once it gets onto the warm wood, it will thin out almost like water. Once the wood has done all the drinking it is going to do, wait for it to tack up a bit, then thicken the epoxy in your pan with some colloidal silica (or cabosil, same stuff) to a mayonnaise-peanut butter consistency, somewhere in between. Fill the holes with the stuff as best as you can. Let it harden. Using your template, redrill the holes and use unthickened epoxy to wet out the holes once again. Once you are satisfied, insert carnauba waxed bolts in to the holes (let wax dry on them and dont buff it off) and let it harden. Once hardened, tap with mallet to loosen bolts. Clean up holes with acetone to remove any wax. Mount motor but still use 5200 in holes. Pipe cleaner or brush is easiest to make sure everything is touched upon.
Couple things i forgot to mention;
1)put packaging tape and hefty bags over every area that might get epoxy near it to mask things off. Do this on the inside and outside of boat as to do this the best way possible, you will have to get inside of boat a few times in the process.
2)might seem like a lot of work to do the above, but it is a lot less work that replacing a transom.
Ronny Jetmore
Posted that in this thread here;
https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...-the-Right-Way
Hopefully some help for youHydrostream dreamin
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tnelsmn liked this post
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08-06-2020, 03:36 PM #347Screaming And Flying!
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Use 5200 and skip the rest......
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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08-06-2020, 04:44 PM #348
Well its reassuring to hear many others going with a 3 ram. This thing is already heavy so a bit extra on the clamp isn't going to hurt considering how much easier it will make life for rigging, I didn't build a race boat.
I did have some 6' braided stainless lines made for the trim when I had this engine on another boat with a jack plate. I really didn't want to have to deal with that. Not much room under the splash well for all the rigging.
Lake, I have that thread bookmarkedLast edited by tnelsmn; 08-06-2020 at 05:04 PM.
'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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08-10-2020, 03:44 PM #349
I like my three ram. Plenty fast enough for me, ive run two now both good and smooth and faster than my OMC stuff
Hydrostream dreamin
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08-12-2020, 12:07 PM #350
Still slowly checking things off the list. Project it a little overwhelming at this point because there are so many things that need to be done and not a clear next step like there was throughout rebuilding the hull. I'm kinda jumping between small projects at this point.
Drilled all transom holes, bilge drain, and bilge pump exit. I did end up going over sized and filled them back in with thickened resin. I should've listed to you Xstream, that process was a pain in the ass and made a mess. But I already had them drilled before I saw your comment. If my math adds up correctly the center hole on the clamp will put the prop shaft centerline even to the pad with the jack plate all the way up. So I have 1.5" either direction with the holes in the clamp. I probably should've set it lower thinking back now, I doubt I'll ever need to be 1.5" above the pad.
I did run into an issue looking at the engine mount holes. When I laid them out on the transom I set them dead center on the transom. When I stepped back and looked at them they look off center compared to the support knees. I couldn't see that until they were drilled. Using my laser level set off the center of the pad they ended up 1/4" off to one side! Is that going to be a major problem for handling? Or should I just spend a little more time and get them set perfect?Last edited by tnelsmn; 08-21-2020 at 06:48 PM.
'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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08-12-2020, 12:33 PM #351
Yes definitely use both the center line of the pad to center the motor mount holes and a line parallel to the bottom of the pad to set the level. If you try to use the transom itself you will end up with a motor that's not square to the running surface and the boat will handle funny!
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tnelsmn thanked for this post
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08-12-2020, 12:43 PM #352
Maybe you can re-position ( weld/drill ) the jackplate holes for the engine. Quarter inch should be pretty easy. Maybe drilling larger holes and some offset bushings will do the trick? Think old school cloyes timing chain adv/retard holes if you know what Im talking about.
Hydrostream dreamin
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tnelsmn liked this post
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08-12-2020, 01:19 PM #353
Deep down I knew this was the answer. Just didn't want to admit it to myself. I did good getting them level with the bottom of the pad, that 1/2" aluminum plate is held against the bottom with a floor jack, so its true to the bottom. For some reason center slipped my mind.
Last edited by tnelsmn; 08-12-2020 at 01:22 PM.
'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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nitro_rat liked this post
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08-12-2020, 01:46 PM #354
is it off center to the port? your a side steer on the starboard? Not sure if this a huge problem as 1/4 is not much and I have seen worse...
1973 Viper - sold
1978 Viking - sold
1995 XB02
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08-12-2020, 01:58 PM #355
Its offset to starboard.
I'm running side steer on starboard. I have to drill them agin anyway due to going big and plugging with thickened resin. I guess I'll just nail it dead on when I re drill them. You wot be able to see the mistake under the jack plate or big fender washers in the splash well. Just going to be a bit more work.'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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08-12-2020, 02:58 PM #356
don't feel bad, i had to learn this one the hard way too! the silver lining is that it's the kind of mistake you only make once!
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tnelsmn liked this post
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08-14-2020, 09:38 PM #357
Thats 1 thing I have thought alot about (remounting) jackplate and being straight after new transom. Take more pics as u figure how to remeasure. Prob like nitro said?
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tnelsmn liked this post
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08-15-2020, 08:46 AM #358Screaming And Flying!
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New laser levels make the job easy and accurate.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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tnelsmn liked this post
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08-15-2020, 11:54 AM #359
The 1/2" aluminum plate I know to be flat, was held against the bottom of the pad with a floor jack as before. I measured up from the plate to set my height and level left/right. I then set my laser level as far back on the plate as possible. I lined up the laser with the center mark on the pad. I held a square against the back of the pad with the rule along the laser beam to insure the laser was squared up to the boat and throwing a true line up the transom. Re marked and drilled holes with my template. As you can see they were off, but not a ton, probably wouldn't have noticed. But an extra hour or two at this point in the build is nothing to make it perfect. I coated the newly exposed wood with a few coats of thinned out resin, and will use a liberal amount of 4200 when mounting the jack plate.
Also installed brass drain tubes and transom tie downs(I was happy to find the same style as original) with 5200 for good.Last edited by tnelsmn; 08-16-2020 at 10:01 PM.
'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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08-16-2020, 07:29 PM #360
looking good!
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tnelsmn liked this post
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