1978 Viking rebuild

[XstreamVking]

The later boats have a V shaped floor from the front of the main floor to the front raised shelf area. My boat has it, (2003) I added a center stringer under it also. My boat has the big foam boxes under the gunnells. They act as a stringer and ties the hull together up fwd. (prevents twist) The earlier boats didn't have anything but core for hull structure. Friend has a "78" Viking and it has core, no fwd floor but does have full length stringers on the upper hull where the deck support attaches. His did develop a crack on the port side where the main floor meets the hull. (result of twist/flex) It had too little glass in the area. (just mat) We added some 1708. As mentioned, they were built many ways. This is just two. I'm sure there are many others like the comp's and the newer ones.

[tnelsmn]

The later boats have a V shaped floor from the front of the main floor to the front raised shelf area. My boat has it, (2003) I added a center stringer under it also. My boat has the big foam boxes under the gunnells. They act as a stringer and ties the hull together up fwd. (prevents twist) The earlier boats didn't have anything but core for hull structure. Friend has a "78" Viking and it has core, no fwd floor but does have full length stringers on the upper hull where the deck support attaches. His did develop a crack on the port side where the main floor meets the hull. (result of twist/flex) It had too little glass in the area. (just mat) We added some 1708. As mentioned, they were built many ways. This is just two. I'm sure there are many others like the comp's and the newer ones.

This hull had the V shaped front floor as well. That was all removed years ago before I got my hands on it. I wish it was still there so I could replicate it better instead of just going from pictures I've found. I like the idea of a center stringer below the forward floor and now plan on adding one after all this discussion. Do you have any pictures from when you did that? I've read your rebuild thread many times and can't find a picture that shows that. Thanks!

[rjdubiel]

Here is the center stringer inder the front floor in a stock vking

[XstreamVking]

I don't have the front floor install with the stringer. It was just some pvc foam made into a rectangular box shape and glassed in, shaped like your pic. I lost a lot of pics during the build....

[W2F a V-King]

I don't believe that the stringers are stopped at this point for any reason other than that's where the floor ended. This area is actually where some of the worst damage was from the soft core, it broke just in front of the bulkhead. I was under the impression that the core would offer some stability in this area? Although it might not be enough.

The core you installed has 1708 under and over it (IIRC)...This is SO much better/stronger than the core that came in the boat when it was made new.

[XstreamVking]

Core was set in 1.5oz mat. Covered with 1 lay of 1708. HS-80 divinnycel. The floor only has 1.5 oz mat under. 1.5 oz mat over and tabbed with 1708 all the way around. Penske 1/2'' 11# density. Set in 2 layers of 1.5oz matt where it contacts the stringers and strake it sits in. I used no putty to set anything. But I have done it many times and felt confident with that procedure VS a putty. I even set the trans in glass.

[tnelsmn]

The core you installed has 1708 under and over it (IIRC)...This is SO much better/stronger than the core that came in the boat when it was made new.

Correct. I covered the entire bottom of the hull with a layer of 1708 after making all the repairs to the bottom. Core was set into 1.5oz mat and 1708 over the entire core.
I'll be adding another stringer in the center of the lower floor and continuing it forward to the end of the core under the forward floor. I never knew one was there, makes sense to have one.

[tnelsmn]

Made some progress over the weekend. Didn't get as much done as I had wanted to. Side work gets in the way, but it's needed to help fund the fun projects.

Anyway, the outer stringers are completely glassed in at this point. I started with a paste of cabosil and milled fibers in the fillet to help establish a nice radius. I then used a 2" wide strip of 1.5oz CSM over the paste and used a roller to form the radius. Saw a guy a YouTube do that and it worked pretty well and saved a step of sanding the paste once it cured. I let the set and cure.

Next a 4" strip of 1708 to tab in the sides to the hull followed by a 8" strip over the top tying the sides together. After this was 8" of 1708 tabbing into the hull and another 8" 1708 over the top. I did all of the 1708 in one shot on the port stringer and it started to cure before I finished the last layer so I ended up having to grind some of the top layer off the next day and patch in new material. I got a little ambitious and over my head there.

The starboard stringer I left the final layer of 8" 1708 off the top and did that in a separate layup once the first layers were cured and scuffed. This side turned out much better.

Lastly I used some CSM to wrap the ends to give a smoother transition.

Sure is nice to have the garage open doing glass work now that it's finally warm enough, slow and steady progress.

[tnelsmn]

Well it had been a month since I was able to get any work done to the boat. Life gets in the way with vacation, overtime, and side jobs... Anyway I was able to get back at it over the weekend. Getting the last of the glass on the center stringers and working on mocking up a forward stringer and floors. After the discussion about a forward stringer this is what I came up with. All I really had to go off of was pictures from other builds. This will be made out of 1/2" marine plywood. Just using the foam for mock up.

[tnelsmn]

So here's a question for the group. I've had a few friends raise the question of adding drain holes in the bottom of the forward bulkhead(front edge of main floor) to allow for drainage. Also a corresponding hole in the piece I'm adding between the stringers to establish the front wall of the bilge.

I haven't been planning to do this. My thought was that it will all be completely sealed and no water can enter, so no need to drain it. I will be gel coating the entire inside of the hull once wood work is complete. So any water would need to penetrate gel coat, then the resin and glass.

Friends argue that water will make its way in there somehow. It is a boat after all haha. So it needs a way out.

After thinking about it some I started to consider condensation forming below the floor and not having a way out.
Should I add some drains in the bulkheads, possibly drill a drain through the stringers near the bilge area, cut a vent under each seat box?

Thoughts, past practice? I would like some advice from people who've done this before. Thanks!

[Captaincj]

Get more opinions, but I say absolutely needs drain holes.

[SS Minnow]

I put drain holes in mine.

Figured it were better to have them and not need them rather then.........

[rjdubiel]

Take a 1 inch hole saw and drill the holes through the bulkheads and the stringers by the drain plug. condensation will form and some air movement will happen with the holes. And if there is a crack you will know where it is hopefully. Leave no spot for water to pool if for some reason a lot gets in, make sure there is a way for water to get all the way back to the drain plug is what I am doing.

[Hippie459MN]

I have drain holes in mine just encase. That way if any water, weather it be from condensation or anything, it has a way to get out.

[TwzteD]

Here is what i would do, add the drain holes to each INNER bulkhead, leave the front/rear one completely sealed so no water can make its way back forward. If you feel you may have water in there, drill a small hole in the back bulkhead that can be easily filled and sealed back up if nothing. that way your get best of both scenarios. on my boat, i added holes to each bulkhead even though i actually added flotation foam under my whole floor, ( black sheep ) there is a reason lol, but if water ever did get in, I could tip boat back and it would eventually flow toward the back and a hole can be drilled to let the water out ( my floor is completely sealed in all aspects including mounting points being designed into the floor so nothing will be puncturing the glass skins on either side of the floor so its unlikely to get wet but it never hurts to future proof. You can see the holes i did in the bottom of the corners closest to the stringer. pics are before I added mounting points but you get the idea.