User Tag List

Page 10 of 15 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 LastLast
Results 136 to 150 of 212
  1. #136
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    NE Tennessee
    Posts
    1,636
    Thanks (Given)
    255
    Thanks (Received)
    136
    Likes (Given)
    1913
    Likes (Received)
    610
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Tony you are doing a Great job.

    There are enough men watching this thread with professional experience (Not me), and IF they saw something that would be detrimental, They would and will pipe up and make corrective suggestions.

    I don't believe anyone posting here is being negative, that's a problem with text or typed messages in a forum environment. The actual feeling or context of what is typed can be read out of context and the wrong message come through. Sometimes questions come across as criticism or sarcasm.

    I too look forward to your videos of a successful job well done.

    Rock On Tony !!

    Forgot to mention that I too mounted my stringers on top of my core, and from the factory they were mounted to the hull with the core sectioned in between. In my mind this made more sense. Like Xstream said they built these boats many different ways looking for what was best and easiest.
    Last edited by W2F a V-King; 04-04-2019 at 07:58 AM. Reason: added a thought
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

  2. Thanks tnelsmn thanked for this post
    Likes keefallan liked this post
  3. #137
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    McHenry,Illinois
    Posts
    573
    Thanks (Given)
    19
    Thanks (Received)
    84
    Likes (Given)
    1445
    Likes (Received)
    715
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Like Xstream said many people have different ways of doing restores. I do mine my way because that's the way I know...how we did it when we made our hulls. It's definitely trial and error, especially in the old days. That's why I said in my post I'm learning new stuff all the time. Your doing a great job on your boat and you gotta be itching to get that thing in the water!!!I can't wait to see the finished product.


    Quote Originally Posted by tnelsmn View Post
    I'll be the first to admit that I don't know what I'm doing. This is my first time doing any type of work like this. I come from a background in metal fabrication. I sincerely appreciate the help this board has provided and would be completely lost without it. I'm mostly trying to put this thing back together the way it was when new, just with better workmanship. I'll try and clear up how I made some of my construction decisions.

    The outer stringers are actually longer by about 5-6" than the factory ones I cut out. The original stringers stopped short of the transom by about 1" and stopped about 4" further back from where the new ones stop. These are also about twice as tall. I'll attach some shots of the old ones.

    The center two have added length where they step down for my foot well. I wanted to run them much further forward but it wouldn't really be possible to create a foot well. By the time these stringers would be at the front of the foot well they would be less than 1" tall. The original centers stopped at the front edge of the main floor. Looking from the transom forward you can see the witness marks where they were originally. I will be building a front bulk head of sorts at the front edge of the main floor.

    I set the stringers on top of the core seeing as thats how Outasite's comp hull was built from the factory. This also seemed like it would make the core instal easier for me.

    The adhesive isn't the only thing holding the stringers in. I have two layers of 1708 to go down tabbing them in and wrapping over the top. I was advised to use the adhesive from my fiberglass supplier. They stated that the strength of the stringers is transferred to the boat through the glass holding them in. Not what was bonding them to the hull, the adhesive was more to keep them in place while the glass work is done. Made sense in my head I guess.

    I hope this didn't come off as really defensive, just trying to explain what my thought process was.

    Thanks, Tony.
    Hustler 15' Wildcat / Merc 80
    Hustler 13' Wildcat / Merc 80
    Hustler 13' Picklefork(Experimental) / Merc 80
    Hustler 16' Victor / Evinrude 85
    Hustler 15' Tunnel / Evinrude X115
    Hustler 17' Lark / Suzuki 140 (current)
    Ranger 17' Aztec / Merc 115 (current)
    Hustler 16' Victor / Merc 125 (current)
    Hustler 16' Victor / JohnRude 135 (current and restored)
    Hustler 15' Family Tunnel (current project)

  4. Likes W2F a V-King liked this post
  5. #138
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Coon Rapids MN
    Posts
    208
    Thanks (Given)
    81
    Thanks (Received)
    9
    Likes (Given)
    453
    Likes (Received)
    141
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Itching to get it in the water in more ways than one! We just opened up my brothers lake place for the season yesterday. Planning to have it in the water this summer. Sadly haven't been able to get any work done on it this week as I've been busy with side work. Next week is pretty open and should be able to complete the glass work on the stringers.
    '78 Hydrostream Viking/2.0 175, restoration https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild

  6. #139
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    365
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    9
    Likes (Given)
    2
    Likes (Received)
    50
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by W2F a V-King View Post
    Tony you are doing a Great job.

    There are enough men watching this thread with professional experience (Not me), and IF they saw something that would be detrimental, They would and will pipe up and make corrective suggestions.

    I don't believe anyone posting here is being negative, that's a problem with text or typed messages in a forum environment. The actual feeling or context of what is typed can be read out of context and the wrong message come through. Sometimes questions come across as criticism or sarcasm.

    I too look forward to your videos of a successful job well done.

    Rock On Tony !!

    Forgot to mention that I too mounted my stringers on top of my core, and from the factory they were mounted to the hull with the core sectioned in between. In my mind this made more sense. Like Xstream said they built these boats many different ways looking for what was best and easiest.
    Hi James,
    I am ambivalent about making suggestions from past experience in here. You know my experience, but to others I am sure I am just a foreigner that has no idea.
    So, Tony, instead of suggestions I have some questions. The answers may guide your actions.
    Does the deck stiffen the overall structure?

  7. #140
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    NE Tennessee
    Posts
    1,636
    Thanks (Given)
    255
    Thanks (Received)
    136
    Likes (Given)
    1913
    Likes (Received)
    610
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Yes, Greg builds light glass race boats "Down Under" ... And Greg like others here (Many Great People Here!!) gave me some great advice during my hull build up. He is a professional for sure.

    https://www.facebook.com/adams.sportsboats
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

  8. #141
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Coon Rapids MN
    Posts
    208
    Thanks (Given)
    81
    Thanks (Received)
    9
    Likes (Given)
    453
    Likes (Received)
    141
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by GregAdams View Post
    Hi James,
    I am ambivalent about making suggestions from past experience in here. You know my experience, but to others I am sure I am just a foreigner that has no idea.
    So, Tony, instead of suggestions I have some questions. The answers may guide your actions.
    Does the deck stiffen the overall structure?
    I'm open to any and all advice. First time doing something like this so I'll take all the help I can get. I do appreciate everyones advice.
    I would say that yes, I believe the deck adds support to the over all structure. The sides are quite flexible with out it, and they weren't that way with the deck attached.
    '78 Hydrostream Viking/2.0 175, restoration https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild

  9. #142
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    365
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    9
    Likes (Given)
    2
    Likes (Received)
    50
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Even without the deck
    the bow area of the hull is more rigid because of the curves. Once the deck is added the area in front of the dash and especially the area in front of the forefoot is almost pyramidal or conical in shape and self supporting much like a monocoque.
    What happens aft of the dash in your boat?
    Last edited by GregAdams; 04-11-2019 at 05:36 AM.

  10. Likes tnelsmn liked this post
  11. #143
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Coon Rapids MN
    Posts
    208
    Thanks (Given)
    81
    Thanks (Received)
    9
    Likes (Given)
    453
    Likes (Received)
    141
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by GregAdams View Post
    Even without the deck
    the bow area of the hull is more rigid because of the curves. Once the deck is added the area in front of the dash and especially the area in front of the forefoot is almost pyramidal or conical in shape and self supporting much like a monocoque.
    What happens aft of the dash in your boat?
    Aft of the dash is pretty open on the deck. The floor starts at about the dash and continues to the transom. The deck is open to the width of the outer stringers and continues rear until 20" in front of the transom where the splash well begins.
    '78 Hydrostream Viking/2.0 175, restoration https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild

  12. #144
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    365
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    9
    Likes (Given)
    2
    Likes (Received)
    50
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    That big hole in the deck (cockpit) is a bit inconvenient structurally. I have been around circuit racing a long time and seen a more than a few lightweight monos roll going around turn buoys. That sudden change in the structure at the dash and the rear of the cockpit concentrates the stress in the corners of the cockpit and I have seen a few lightweight decks and hull sides break at the cockpit corners in a roll. If a force is applied to a flexible section between two rigid sections, the greatest displacement of the structure may be in the middle, but the the greatest deformation can occur where the structure changes from flexible to rigid. Have you noticed that some older outboard hulls develop cracks in the gelcoat in the rear corners of the cockpit?

  13. Likes tnelsmn liked this post
  14. #145
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Floating around
    Posts
    1,462
    Thanks (Given)
    54
    Thanks (Received)
    111
    Likes (Given)
    456
    Likes (Received)
    686
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by GregAdams View Post
    Hi James,
    I am ambivalent about making suggestions from past experience in here. You know my experience, but to others I am sure I am just a foreigner that has no idea.
    So, Tony, instead of suggestions I have some questions. The answers may guide your actions.
    Does the deck stiffen the overall structure?
    Im the "new" post whore guy who is loving this forum and since I've been here there has been first class behavior from all members. I hope this BS you mention is a forgotten thing of the past because some other boards are filled with poor attitudes and this site sure aint one of em! Even when we disagree we get along and THAT is awesome because S&F is AWESOME!
    Hydrostream dreamin

  15. Likes tnelsmn, XstreamVking, W2F a V-King liked this post
  16. #146
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    NE Tennessee
    Posts
    1,636
    Thanks (Given)
    255
    Thanks (Received)
    136
    Likes (Given)
    1913
    Likes (Received)
    610
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I think he is referring to a member in the not to distant past that was banned because of his attitude and opinionated berating remarks. One could hardly make a post in the fiberglass section without his interference. It was frustrating at best.

    Some chose not to post projects because of his intervention, and why I chose not to post mine.

    Greg builds Very light boats purpose made for racing. Hull design, integrity and weight is critical.
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

  17. Likes XstreamVking, tnelsmn, Gmcviper liked this post
  18. #147
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Coon Rapids MN
    Posts
    208
    Thanks (Given)
    81
    Thanks (Received)
    9
    Likes (Given)
    453
    Likes (Received)
    141
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by GregAdams View Post
    That big hole in the deck (cockpit) is a bit inconvenient structurally. I have been around circuit racing a long time and seen a more than a few lightweight monos roll going around turn buoys. That sudden change in the structure at the dash and the rear of the cockpit concentrates the stress in the corners of the cockpit and I have seen a few lightweight decks and hull sides break at the cockpit corners in a roll. If a force is applied to a flexible section between two rigid sections, the greatest displacement of the structure may be in the middle, but the the greatest deformation can occur where the structure changes from flexible to rigid. Have you noticed that some older outboard hulls develop cracks in the gelcoat in the rear corners of the cockpit?
    I have seen that before. I can't say for sure if my deck has this issue or not. The deck is currently in storage away from my house. I do remember stress cracks near the splash well, but I thought that was from a soft transom. I'm learning, slowly..
    '78 Hydrostream Viking/2.0 175, restoration https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild

  19. #148
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    365
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    9
    Likes (Given)
    2
    Likes (Received)
    50
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    You have a similar situation with your hull. The rear half of the boat has longitudinal stiffness from your stringers. The front half doesn't. The stringers finish abruptly in an area where the hull panels are relatively flat and subjected to slamming loads in rough water. All else being equal, any displacement (flex) of the running surface in front of the stringers will cause greater deformation at the front of the stringers than further forward. Some flex can be beneficial. Too much stiffness can be a negative too. Is the sudden change in longitudinal stiffness in that part of the hull beneficial?
    Last edited by GregAdams; 04-13-2019 at 06:25 PM.

  20. #149
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Floating around
    Posts
    1,462
    Thanks (Given)
    54
    Thanks (Received)
    111
    Likes (Given)
    456
    Likes (Received)
    686
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    My boats quite different. I have no core from the front stringer brace footwell forward, but I have triple thick glass in the shape of a core. The deck on mine is super rigid you can walk on it no problem at all and cannot see light through it. The sides of the front half of the hull the sun is EASILY visible right through and you can wiggle that glass quite effortlessly. Hmm
    Hydrostream dreamin

  21. #150
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Coon Rapids MN
    Posts
    208
    Thanks (Given)
    81
    Thanks (Received)
    9
    Likes (Given)
    453
    Likes (Received)
    141
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I don't believe that the stringers are stopped at this point for any reason other than that's where the floor ended. This area is actually where some of the worst damage was from the soft core, it broke just in front of the bulkhead. I was under the impression that the core would offer some stability in this area? Although it might not be enough.
    '78 Hydrostream Viking/2.0 175, restoration https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild

Page 10 of 15 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. 1978 vking rebuild
    By rjdubiel in forum Fiberglass and Composites Discussion
    Replies: 119
    Last Post: 10-01-2019, 08:15 AM
  2. complete rebuild Monster Viking
    By primerate2 in forum Appearance Mods
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 10-25-2011, 02:14 PM
  3. Blue 1978 viking lansing, mich
    By 200VEGAS in forum General Boating Discussion
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 08-07-2010, 09:04 AM
  4. 1978 Galaxy rebuild
    By Auggie2612 in forum Jet Boats, V-Drives and Stern Drives
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 08-25-2009, 10:32 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Chris Carson's Marine