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  1. #211
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    My thoughts exactly. This is going to see some long idle times and lots of part throttle cruising. I can always drop a power head on for a season and go for the big numbers.

  2. #212
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    This thread is just priceless. I absolutely love it!


    Facebook | YouTube | Vintage Outboard Catalogs
    Photo prints available of your boat - click here


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  4. #213
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    The work on the hull has been completed!

    Battery and throttle mounts got a layer of CSM on the bottom side before being bedded into a resin putty mix and tabbed in with 2" CSM, 4" 1708, and completely covered with CSM.

    Drainage holes were drilled into the transom knees and the forward bulkhead to drain the foot well.

    I had to spend a bit of time with a carbide burr, drill bits, a bottoming tap, and thread chase to clean out the resin in the threads of the T nuts after all the glass went over them. I went and picked up some cheap hardware and threaded bolts into each T nut to keep gel coat from getting in the threads.

    The entire hull got a thorough wash down with acetone and wiped down with a tack cloth before gel coat went on. I taped off the top 4" of hull to keep gel coat off so the glass will have better bite to hold the deck/hull together. I applied the gel coat by mixing each batch and dumping it in the hull and spreading it with a brush and roller. Looking back I really should've picked up a spray gun and sprayed it. It would've looked much better considering the amount of time and effort I spent getting the glass nice and smooth. I admit I felt a bit rushed to get the gel finished so I could get the deck in the garage before it became completely buried in snow. 18" this season so far. Overall it doesn't look bad, but could be better.

    I found the best blue match I could to the flake I'll be using on the exterior. Once the gel cured for a day I applied the splatter pattern using a 3" brush that I cut four "fingers" into and just flung it around. I'm not aware of Howard doing this to any original boats, but I feel like it fits the 70's era well. Plus is does a great job hiding the brush finish of the underlaying gel.

    A good tip I picked up from my fiberglass supplier. When mixing in wax for the top coat of gel, go pick up an empty gallon paint can(a few bucks at big box home store) and wax an entire gallon at a time. That will save time while mixing in catalyst when keeping a wet edge.

    Once all the gel coat was finished I covered the hull with some 3mil poly sheeting I had laying around to keep any resin drips off the fresh gel and added some supports to my cradle to hold the deck.

    The deck is in the garage and thawed out. I removed all the wood from it last night. That didn't take long as there wasn't much holding it together. Lots of dry mat. I'll be replacing all wood as well as adding core to the bow.
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    Last edited by tnelsmn; 12-07-2019 at 11:15 AM.

  5. #214
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    Looks great! I will certainly refer back to this when I move on to my Vector for a few ideas.
    -Kevin
    Project Vulture | Project Vector | Project Vamp | Project CobraJet
    1977 Hydrostream Vulture - Worlds longest ongoing project.
    1982 Hydrostream Vector
    1982 Hydrostream Vamp
    1976 CobraJet Jet Boat - Outboard conversion project
    199? Glastron - aka Boat Anchor
    1976 Pontoon - aka The Family Truckster

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  7. #215
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    What a excellent turn out. U did a fantastic job on this especially ur 1st go around. My hats off to u sir!! Cant wait to see deck on it. Let me know when ur ready for me send u mine.

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  9. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by Merc 2.5 View Post
    What a excellent turn out. U did a fantastic job on this especially ur 1st go around. My hats off to u sir!! Cant wait to see deck on it. Let me know when ur ready for me send u mine.
    x2

    Awesome thread
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  11. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by Merc 2.5 View Post
    What a excellent turn out. U did a fantastic job on this especially ur 1st go around. My hats off to u sir!! Cant wait to see deck on it. Let me know when ur ready for me send u mine.
    Thank you, Merc! I'm sure I'll do another one in the future now that I kinda get how this stuff works. But it won't be until I have a separate shop. Not being able to park in my garage is getting pretty old.

  12. #218
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    Busy time of year... Made some time to get the rest of the old glass off the deck. Ground everything down with a 36g on a 5" angle grinder and finished it off with 24g DA. Still have a few small spots to touch up and need to feather out the holes for patching. I'll be filling all the holes and starting from scratch when rigging.
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  14. #219
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    Looking good! Damn for a first time doesn't show it..
    '84 Checkmate Convincor
    Twin v6 closed deck Evinrude loopers Ported,2.7 heads,cooling mods
    milled finger ported to match vertex pistons,
    All casting slag removed
    Sleeves in opposite so no idle reliefs
    Offshore exhaust mids
    148 psi comp,balanced pistons and rods,Stuffed, 106 pullovers
    CDI 8500 digital ignitions ..Boyesen reeds..And more....

  15. Thanks tnelsmn thanked for this post
  16. #220
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    Very sad news to hear of the passing of Mr. Pipkorn. May he rest in peace. One more of his creations will be saved and back on the water.

    All the holes are patched and the core section on the bow is finished. This is going to be a lake cruiser so the bow will get walked on, now it won't be an issue. I was able to use all left over scrap balsa so I didn't have to go buy more, but looks like I just bought more than I needed to begin with.

    Scuffed everything with 24g on a DA. Set the balsa into really wet CSM and weighed it down with some roofing shingles. I ended up having to score the balsa twice as much as the factory did to get it to conform to the contours of the deck better.

    Instead of mixing a resin paste to fill in along the edge of the balsa, I just beveled off the sides of the core once it was cured. It was then covered with 1708. More scraps I found

    Fitting up the dash and side panels will begin this weekend.
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  18. #221
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    Dash board(3/4" marine ply) and rear board(for lack of a better term(1/2" marine ply)) are finished. Both were set into wet CSM and tabbed in with 4" 1708 and 8" 1708 and covered by a full layer of CSM. I actually remembered to drill a grid of 1/8" holes to allow the excess resin and air bubbles a way to escape. I'll begin fitting the sides this weekend.
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    Last edited by tnelsmn; 02-09-2020 at 10:00 AM.

  19. #222
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    Upper stringers, for lack of a better term, are on the deck. 1/2" marine plywood 6" tall and about 10' long. I spliced them with a 2:1 ratio and cut a 55 degree miter(max of my skill saw). The splice was bonded with CSM on the miter and 4" 1708 on the inside face. I added 1/4"-20 stainless T nuts on the back side about every foot for bolting in rigging hardware.

    I bonded them to the deck with CSM and lots of clamps. I added resin paste(milled fibers and Cabosil) to the bottom edge(as it sits) where it meets the deck and a generous amount on the sides of the splash well. I pulled them together forward of the dash so the front edge would end on top of the added core. I think this will tie the deck together well and prevent a chance of stress cracks in the future.

    They were tabbed in with 2" CSM and 4" 1708 on the inside edge and to the dash and rear board. The outside edges were tabbed in with 2" CSM and wrapped with 8" 1708.

    I cut the bottom edge off the cockpit sides so I can wrap the mat around that and blend it to the sides easier, it also buys me an extra inch or two when reaching behind there rigging and connecting the deck and hull.

    CoreMat was added in the wings. This seems to be the easiest spot to climb back in the boat from deep water. There's already some stress cracks in this area and I think the CoreMat will help strengthen this area and prevent cracks in the future.

    Close to having it back to one piece agin!
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    Last edited by tnelsmn; 02-09-2020 at 10:02 AM.

  20. #223
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    The deck is finished and back on the hull!

    Since the last post a second brace was added in front of the dash and a gusset tying them together. These were made from the leftover 3/4" marine ply from the transom and dashboard. I would've used 1/2" but didn't have any pieces large enough and wasn't going to buy a full sheet for these small parts. I wanted to add another cross brace because of how much of the dash board will be cut away for the gauge layout. Also gives me somewhere to mount my hidden radio. Speaking of radios, I added four mounts for 6.5" speakers to the deck. They are 1/4" marine ply with CSM on both sides. They tuck the speakers up nicely into the deck without being seen and mostly out of the way.

    I can't believe how well the two fit back together after being apart for a year or more. The bow, from the dash forward, was nearly perfect. The wings wanted to sit a bit high, an inch at the most, but with just a little persuasion from the clamps it sat right down. I think this is partly due to not having them held properly when I added the CoreMat.

    I used 3M 5200 to bond the hull and deck seam. Laid down about a 1/4" bead all around the hull. This gave a decent squeeze out the outside and left about a perfect 1/16" bead around the inside. Not even enough to wipe off with a finger. One calk gun tube was the exact amount needed. Almost not enough, but I had a small tube on standby. Made a Harbor Freight run and grabbed a bunch of clamps, and grabbed everyone I had in the garage to help hold it together as it cures.

    I'll be tabbing in the seam on the inside with 2" CSM followed by 4" 1708. This looks like it will be about the worst part of the build so far.
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    Last edited by tnelsmn; 02-11-2020 at 11:11 AM.

  21. #224
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    After 14 months the boat is out of its cradle! Now upside down to complete the bottom repairs and blueprinting.

    After the deck was bonded with 5200 I tabbed it together with 2" CSM and 4" 1708 along almost the entire inside seam, I wasn't able to reach the first foot or two in the bow. This was made more manageable by cutting the strips into 12" pieces. I started in the front and worked my way back keeping a wet edge and overlapping by an inch or so. This was probably the worst part of the build, although it went better than I expected.

    With the seam finished I moved to the splash well, which I am keeping. While the deck was flipped I sanded down the rear 6" or so of the splash well to a feathered edge. For the drain my father fabbed up a simple little mold out of 1/16" aluminum. I wrapped it in parchment paper and tapped it in. I glassed in the top side of the well with 2" CSM, 4" 1708, and a few full layers of CSM. Each layer wrapping over top of the transom and extending about halfway down. The transom was sanded to allow for this. I still need to add glass to the underside of the well tied to the transom. This will be much easier now with the boat upside down.

    My initial plan was to have the upper stringers left long so they would fully contact the transom but they ended up a bit short, 1/4" at the most. I filled this gap with a resin putty before glassing the splash well.

    To flip the boat it was lifted out of the cradle and rested on a pipe stand in the rear and hung from the ceiling at the bow. I put the old bow eye back in for a lift point, that was fun wedging myself in the bow to get the nuts on. I used a piece of 6" channel iron that was drilled to match the holes for the transom hooks. A pipe was welded to the channel iron and bolted to the transom. I almost nailed the center of gravity with the pipe, it took very little effort to spin the boat. With the boat upside down it was lowered onto some old tires.

    The project is reaching the point where progress seems to be moving fast and big milestones are coming quickly. It's a lot of fun these days.
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    Last edited by tnelsmn; 02-18-2020 at 08:30 PM.

  22. #225
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    Every time I see updates makes me want to get a project..
    Then realize have enough to do swaping mids, painting and finishing motors break in etc..

    I forget, tried looking back ..do you have motor already already? Or what are you looking to hand on it?



    Michael
    '84 Checkmate Convincor
    Twin v6 closed deck Evinrude loopers Ported,2.7 heads,cooling mods
    milled finger ported to match vertex pistons,
    All casting slag removed
    Sleeves in opposite so no idle reliefs
    Offshore exhaust mids
    148 psi comp,balanced pistons and rods,Stuffed, 106 pullovers
    CDI 8500 digital ignitions ..Boyesen reeds..And more....

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