User Tag List

Page 24 of 39 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 LastLast
Results 346 to 360 of 581
  1. #346
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Floating around
    Posts
    3,929
    Thanks (Given)
    464
    Thanks (Received)
    418
    Likes (Given)
    3355
    Likes (Received)
    2447
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Interesting re the clamp and trim. Regarding installation I scoured a ton of threads and this seems like the best way to mount the clamp

    Do as follows, it will never leak.

    After the holes are drilled, go 2 sizes up and drill again. Chamfer the edges on the inside and outside of holes.

    Get the transom warm, 80, 90, 100 degrees if possible. Use heat lamps overnight, or whatever to make it happen. This opens the pores of the wood. Use standard, unthickened, and unthinned west system epoxy. Use the slow hardener in a 5:1 ratio as this will allow more wet time for the epoxy to soak in. Use q tips, pipe cleaner, paint brushes or whatever that does not leave residue in the holes and start wetting out the holes,.... And keep wetting. The wood will stop drinking up the epoxy, but then go back in 5 minutes, and the gloss will be gone, and this means the wood has sucked up the epoxy. Apply more. (keep the epoxy away from the heat lamp and keep it shallow or it will kick off quickly. The epoxy will be somewhat syrupy as you apply but once it gets onto the warm wood, it will thin out almost like water. Once the wood has done all the drinking it is going to do, wait for it to tack up a bit, then thicken the epoxy in your pan with some colloidal silica (or cabosil, same stuff) to a mayonnaise-peanut butter consistency, somewhere in between. Fill the holes with the stuff as best as you can. Let it harden. Using your template, redrill the holes and use unthickened epoxy to wet out the holes once again. Once you are satisfied, insert carnauba waxed bolts in to the holes (let wax dry on them and dont buff it off) and let it harden. Once hardened, tap with mallet to loosen bolts. Clean up holes with acetone to remove any wax. Mount motor but still use 5200 in holes. Pipe cleaner or brush is easiest to make sure everything is touched upon.

    Couple things i forgot to mention;

    1)put packaging tape and hefty bags over every area that might get epoxy near it to mask things off. Do this on the inside and outside of boat as to do this the best way possible, you will have to get inside of boat a few times in the process.

    2)might seem like a lot of work to do the above, but it is a lot less work that replacing a transom.
    Member
    Ronny Jetmore



    Posted that in this thread here;

    https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...-the-Right-Way


    Hopefully some help for you
    Hydrostream dreamin

  2. Likes tnelsmn liked this post
  3. #347
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Tourist Trap, Florida
    Posts
    14,701
    Thanks (Given)
    380
    Thanks (Received)
    1280
    Likes (Given)
    5599
    Likes (Received)
    10934
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Use 5200 and skip the rest......

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  4. Likes rjdubiel, nitro_rat, tnelsmn, LakeFever liked this post
  5. #348
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Minneapolis MN
    Posts
    940
    Thanks (Given)
    168
    Thanks (Received)
    146
    Likes (Given)
    2652
    Likes (Received)
    981
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Well its reassuring to hear many others going with a 3 ram. This thing is already heavy so a bit extra on the clamp isn't going to hurt considering how much easier it will make life for rigging, I didn't build a race boat.

    I did have some 6' braided stainless lines made for the trim when I had this engine on another boat with a jack plate. I really didn't want to have to deal with that. Not much room under the splash well for all the rigging.

    Lake, I have that thread bookmarked
    Last edited by tnelsmn; 08-06-2020 at 05:04 PM.

  6. #349
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Floating around
    Posts
    3,929
    Thanks (Given)
    464
    Thanks (Received)
    418
    Likes (Given)
    3355
    Likes (Received)
    2447
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I like my three ram. Plenty fast enough for me, ive run two now both good and smooth and faster than my OMC stuff
    Hydrostream dreamin

  7. Likes tnelsmn liked this post
  8. #350
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Minneapolis MN
    Posts
    940
    Thanks (Given)
    168
    Thanks (Received)
    146
    Likes (Given)
    2652
    Likes (Received)
    981
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Still slowly checking things off the list. Project it a little overwhelming at this point because there are so many things that need to be done and not a clear next step like there was throughout rebuilding the hull. I'm kinda jumping between small projects at this point.

    Drilled all transom holes, bilge drain, and bilge pump exit. I did end up going over sized and filled them back in with thickened resin. I should've listed to you Xstream, that process was a pain in the ass and made a mess. But I already had them drilled before I saw your comment. If my math adds up correctly the center hole on the clamp will put the prop shaft centerline even to the pad with the jack plate all the way up. So I have 1.5" either direction with the holes in the clamp. I probably should've set it lower thinking back now, I doubt I'll ever need to be 1.5" above the pad.

    I did run into an issue looking at the engine mount holes. When I laid them out on the transom I set them dead center on the transom. When I stepped back and looked at them they look off center compared to the support knees. I couldn't see that until they were drilled. Using my laser level set off the center of the pad they ended up 1/4" off to one side! Is that going to be a major problem for handling? Or should I just spend a little more time and get them set perfect?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_6916.jpg   IMG_6914.jpg   IMG_6922.jpg   IMG_6913.jpg   IMG_6911.jpg  

    IMG_6910.jpg   IMG_6923.jpg   IMG_6924.jpg   IMG_6929.jpg  
    Last edited by tnelsmn; 08-21-2020 at 06:48 PM.

  9. Likes mrichartz, 89LASER, Hippie459MN liked this post
  10. #351
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Lufkin, Texas
    Posts
    2,642
    Thanks (Given)
    301
    Thanks (Received)
    275
    Likes (Given)
    1788
    Likes (Received)
    1265
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Yes definitely use both the center line of the pad to center the motor mount holes and a line parallel to the bottom of the pad to set the level. If you try to use the transom itself you will end up with a motor that's not square to the running surface and the boat will handle funny!

  11. Thanks tnelsmn thanked for this post
  12. #352
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Floating around
    Posts
    3,929
    Thanks (Given)
    464
    Thanks (Received)
    418
    Likes (Given)
    3355
    Likes (Received)
    2447
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Maybe you can re-position ( weld/drill ) the jackplate holes for the engine. Quarter inch should be pretty easy. Maybe drilling larger holes and some offset bushings will do the trick? Think old school cloyes timing chain adv/retard holes if you know what Im talking about.
    Hydrostream dreamin

  13. Likes tnelsmn liked this post
  14. #353
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Minneapolis MN
    Posts
    940
    Thanks (Given)
    168
    Thanks (Received)
    146
    Likes (Given)
    2652
    Likes (Received)
    981
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by nitro_rat View Post
    Yes definitely use both the center line of the pad to center the motor mount holes and a line parallel to the bottom of the pad to set the level. If you try to use the transom itself you will end up with a motor that's not square to the running surface and the boat will handle funny!
    Deep down I knew this was the answer. Just didn't want to admit it to myself. I did good getting them level with the bottom of the pad, that 1/2" aluminum plate is held against the bottom with a floor jack, so its true to the bottom. For some reason center slipped my mind.
    Last edited by tnelsmn; 08-12-2020 at 01:22 PM.

  15. Likes nitro_rat liked this post
  16. #354
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brooklyn Park, MN
    Posts
    2,493
    Thanks (Given)
    29
    Thanks (Received)
    190
    Likes (Given)
    944
    Likes (Received)
    965
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    is it off center to the port? your a side steer on the starboard? Not sure if this a huge problem as 1/4 is not much and I have seen worse...
    1973 Viper - sold
    1978 Viking - sold
    1995 XB02

  17. #355
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Minneapolis MN
    Posts
    940
    Thanks (Given)
    168
    Thanks (Received)
    146
    Likes (Given)
    2652
    Likes (Received)
    981
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by rjdubiel View Post
    is it off center to the port? your a side steer on the starboard? Not sure if this a huge problem as 1/4 is not much and I have seen worse...
    Its offset to starboard.

    I'm running side steer on starboard. I have to drill them agin anyway due to going big and plugging with thickened resin. I guess I'll just nail it dead on when I re drill them. You wot be able to see the mistake under the jack plate or big fender washers in the splash well. Just going to be a bit more work.

  18. #356
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Lufkin, Texas
    Posts
    2,642
    Thanks (Given)
    301
    Thanks (Received)
    275
    Likes (Given)
    1788
    Likes (Received)
    1265
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    don't feel bad, i had to learn this one the hard way too! the silver lining is that it's the kind of mistake you only make once!

  19. Likes tnelsmn liked this post
  20. #357
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Ashland city tn
    Posts
    4,774
    Thanks (Given)
    226
    Thanks (Received)
    353
    Likes (Given)
    1177
    Likes (Received)
    1115
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Thats 1 thing I have thought alot about (remounting) jackplate and being straight after new transom. Take more pics as u figure how to remeasure. Prob like nitro said?

  21. Likes tnelsmn liked this post
  22. #358
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Tourist Trap, Florida
    Posts
    14,701
    Thanks (Given)
    380
    Thanks (Received)
    1280
    Likes (Given)
    5599
    Likes (Received)
    10934
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    New laser levels make the job easy and accurate.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  23. Likes tnelsmn liked this post
  24. #359
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Minneapolis MN
    Posts
    940
    Thanks (Given)
    168
    Thanks (Received)
    146
    Likes (Given)
    2652
    Likes (Received)
    981
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The 1/2" aluminum plate I know to be flat, was held against the bottom of the pad with a floor jack as before. I measured up from the plate to set my height and level left/right. I then set my laser level as far back on the plate as possible. I lined up the laser with the center mark on the pad. I held a square against the back of the pad with the rule along the laser beam to insure the laser was squared up to the boat and throwing a true line up the transom. Re marked and drilled holes with my template. As you can see they were off, but not a ton, probably wouldn't have noticed. But an extra hour or two at this point in the build is nothing to make it perfect. I coated the newly exposed wood with a few coats of thinned out resin, and will use a liberal amount of 4200 when mounting the jack plate.

    Also installed brass drain tubes and transom tie downs(I was happy to find the same style as original) with 5200 for good.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_6952.jpg   IMG_6953.jpg   IMG_6938.5.jpg   IMG_6938.jpg  
    Last edited by tnelsmn; 08-16-2020 at 10:01 PM.

  25. Likes Gw1nels175, LakeFever, mrichartz, 89LASER liked this post
  26. #360
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Lufkin, Texas
    Posts
    2,642
    Thanks (Given)
    301
    Thanks (Received)
    275
    Likes (Given)
    1788
    Likes (Received)
    1265
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    looking good!

  27. Likes tnelsmn liked this post
Page 24 of 39 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. 1978 vking rebuild
    By rjdubiel in forum Fiberglass and Composites Discussion
    Replies: 155
    Last Post: 04-30-2021, 01:35 PM
  2. complete rebuild Monster Viking
    By primerate2 in forum Appearance Mods
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 10-25-2011, 02:14 PM
  3. Blue 1978 viking lansing, mich
    By 200VEGAS in forum General Boating Discussion
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 08-07-2010, 09:04 AM
  4. 1978 Galaxy rebuild
    By Auggie2612 in forum Jet Boats, V-Drives and Stern Drives
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 08-25-2009, 10:32 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Chris Carson's Marine