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  1. #1
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    Checkmate Predictor

    Recoring part of Checkmate Predictor. Will need deck material so on. Plan on Bluemarine 26(coosa). Deck width no greater than 32". Was going to run one, maybe two, fore/aft stringers to tie deck to bottom and have channel for water. Should I use 1/2 or 3/4 thick coosa? Plan on having flotation foam outboard of the stringers.

  2. #2
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    Floor could be 1/2''. Stringers could be doubled up 1/2'' to get 1'' with glass between to make a very tough stringer. The lighter weight coosa (12#) will be plenty strong for floor and stringers and will save a few bucks.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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  4. #3
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    Thanks. Bluewater 20 will be fine. Question: Which side of the 1708 is for the balsa?

  5. #4
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    Mat side against the core.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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  7. #5
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    Center of floor about ready for core and 1708. Any observations, comments or questions?Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #6
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    Just grind all the surfaces clean. Remove all loose and broken glass material. Vacuum the surface or blow clean with dry air.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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  10. #7
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    Pretty much done. Thanks Sorry for the crappy pix.

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    If you are glassing the hull with the 1708, then the mat side goes against the hull. Just wanted to be clear. The glass over the core, mat side down against the core.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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  13. #9
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    Just went through the 13' Bullet build, which is awesome. Good work, and very informative. Thanks for sharing. No question, planning is key. Ok, now I am planning. I am planning on '85-88 I6(and probably steering upgrade) with 6" BMC jackplate. So, the arm goes further aft, and the boat has 16 gallon tank under the splash, next to the battery. Took the original ski box out, and it is not going back. Thoughts on relocating tank up front?

    Going forward, will document with better pix.

    BTW picking up 2 4x8 sheets of 1/2 Bluewater 20 on Monday.

  14. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ohiohydro View Post
    Pretty much done. Thanks Sorry for the crappy pix.
    How did this project turn out? Anymore pics? I just had a 79 cmate predictor follow me home yest! I'm looking to put in new stringers and floor ,transom splash well delete ,

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  16. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by XstreamVking View Post
    If you are glassing the hull with the 1708, then the mat side goes against the hull. Just wanted to be clear. The glass over the core, mat side down against the core.
    O and hint hint. Gonna need advice! Since I'm doin splash delete , I shouldn't have to split the hull should i? Gonna make it good and strong but wanna avoid the split.

  17. #12
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    Project not done. The "done" reference was only to removal of bad stuff, mostly core. Almost done with that. Final clean-up, fitting new core and 1708 this weekend. Might even mix some resin. Will try to update with better pictures.

  18. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ohiohydro View Post
    Project not done. The "done" reference was only to removal of bad stuff, mostly core. Almost done with that. Final clean-up, fitting new core and 1708 this weekend. Might even mix some resin. Will try to update with better pictures.
    Are you doin transom also?

  19. #14
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    At this time, I am not doing the transom. The plan is re-core the bottom, new coosa stringers, new coosa deck and seat boxes. Will turn next to coosa knees. If the transom looks like it can't handle it, we will look more closely at the transom. Motor is off, and through five holes it looks pretty good. All other signs are good. No sagging, looseness or bowing. Seems solid. Hope it is.

  20. #15
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    The deck on the 2 Checkmates (early 70's 15' and a 16') I restored came off and went back on pretty easy. Mentioning this because if your replacing the core and floor, the transom is a good idea to do now vs later. Adding a set back lift bracket will add some stress to the transom, and if it's old and wood, it could need doing even if you don't see cracks...yet....

    Lifting the deck opens up the boat and makes all repairs easier to do. Doing the transom now with composites and literally tying the transom to the deck and floor/stringers makes it a very strong, never rotting repair. Once and done, and "If" you ever want to repower with more...NO worries, it will be ready for whatever you hang on it.

    Document all your work and "If" you ever sell it, this will help sell it for sure.
    jmo..
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

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