Vector Coosa and Divinycell questions.

[Farmer]

Reading a lot of posts about redoing cores, stringers, transom, and floor it seems Coosa and Divinycell are with out starting any arguments the two materials of choice.

Question 1. In the Midwest from Minnesota south in between the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers where could I go to pick these up or who has both with inexpensive shipping?

For a Vector redo...

Question 2. One 48x96 .75 sheet of Coosa for the transom?

Question 3. Two 48x96 .5 sheets of scored H-80 for the core?

Thanks!

[nitro_rat]

A Vector takes 6 24x48” sheets of balsa to core, or 48 square feet. A 48x96” sheet is 32 square feet, so yes you will need 2. Some suppliers will sell half sheets but I guess it would be nice to have some extra if cost isn’t a primary concern.

Some have argued that 3 layers of 1/2” Coosa are no heavier and also stronger than 2 layers of 3/4”. 1/2” is also good for stringers and floor so you can manage your cuts and use 1/2” everywhere to save some material.

Not to argue, but there is NO better core material than end grain balsa! Carry on...

[Farmer]

The core has separated twice now once when previous owner had it and a couple weeks ago when I hit a log. So this winter I need to rip the stupid float box’s out of the sides and replace what he didn’t now.

So...

Question 1. Midwest supplier?

Question 2. Two or three 48x96 1/2 Coosa to do transom stringers and floor?

Question 3. Answered two sheets

[nitro_rat]

Question 2 is a question only YOU can answer. There were two different Vector floor configurations from the factory and many, many, different possibilities of different styles for a rebuild. Get out your tape measure and estimate your transom size, stri ger design, and floor layout.

Graph paper is handy for “nesting” the parts for more efficient cutting. You can even cut out scale templates of the pieces and trace out a 4x8’ section to try differnent fits to get the best use of the board...

[texasvector]

[QUOTE=Farmer;3088260]

Question 1. Midwest supplier?

express composites have everything you need

[Ohiohydro]

Recoring Checkmate Predictor and just placed order at Merton's: Top Notch

Question:1/2 or 3/4 for deck(coosa)? Max width needed about 32" and plan to run one fore/aft of coosa stringer(maybe 2)?

[olboatman]

Scribed

[Farmer]

Let me get this straight in my head as I type out loud. Tell me if I’m wrong...

For the transom I’m going to need a sheet and a half.

I can use the other half of the 2nd transom sheet for the two transom to bottom tie ins.

One sheet for the two fore and aft middle stringers plus the 32” floor.

Then I guess I will need one more full sheet for the what 16”oc chines from transom forward on both sides?

Question 2. Total is 4 48x96 sheets does that sound about right?

[nitro_rat]

What year is your Vector? You’re planning on a high floor (late style in the 2nd strake register), and 4 stringers tying each strake to the floor? That’s almost enough structure to go coreless!

If it’s a late boat, do you have the fiberglass box stringer? I would just use that if you have it. Have you read through all the core jobs on here? Here’s one that was done without a core, it’s a Ventura II but the idea is the same:

https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...II-restoration

I couldn’t find Beef Kid’s Vector core delete but there are some pic on the first page of this thread:

https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...ore-substitute

This is kinda how I’m thinking you’re planning to do you’re stringers...overkill!!!

[Farmer]

My boat is a mid 80’s the core was removed in the middle stringers redone similar to nossboss but the core was left under the float boxes on the sides, this is where it separated this time.

Asking these questions are for worst case scenario material needed if everything needs to be replaced.

Question 4. To delete all the core what is required to beef up the bottom to make it strong enough for lake running?

[nitro_rat]

Pictures would be helpful as all bets are off once one has already been redone...

[Farmer]

I didn’t think the bottom would be strong enough if the core was removed I thought it had to be there... It seems every redo post I read the core was reinstalled... I thought he just removed the core and installed the stringers because he was short on time. He told me this when I bought the boat knowing thinking some day I will have to pull his floor and just add core around his new stringers and the wings. I assumed I had time to do it later but later has come when I hit the log.

[Farmer]

Alright I will just start by pulling the motor this weekend.

Question 5. Flip the boat fix the bottom first? or gut the float boxes and do the inside first?

how do I attach pictures?

[nitro_rat]

how do I attach pictures?

https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...ts-Please-Read

[Farmer]

The picture I attached above is the outer most chine on starboard side looking up the metal on the left is my rear trailer frame transom is inches past that, and obviously the carpet is my outmost bunk. I lost about three feet it started about 6” and ends up at the transom 10”. The inner glass held most of the water out while we headed back to the trailer just fine.



Here is the rash from the log that my lower unit felt. I lost 90% of water pressure so I limped back to the trailer to dig the wood out of the intake. I uploaded the picture with the icon and it’s sideways?

Qusttion 5. Do I flip the boat over and fix the bottom first or pull the float boxes out and do the inside first?