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  1. #46
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    This hole goes nowhere now

  2. #47
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    Ueah, on the newer style skirt it actually covers the slots so you need the hole and the boot!
    Josh Peterson

  3. #48
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    O gotcha. So I got a newer cowl comin and the skirt will cover those slots?

  4. #49
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    My 1989 175 has the same cowl as your XRI but without the hole.
    so to sum things up, use the 2.4 mid and plate, use the tuner off the 2.5 and open the exhaust to match the tuner?
    Last edited by bbezok; 11-19-2018 at 02:39 PM.

  5. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by bbezok View Post
    My 1989 175 has the same cowl as your XRI but without the hole.
    so to sum things up, use the 2.4 mid and plate, use the tuner off the 2.5 and open the exhaust to match the tuner?
    Exactly

  6. #51
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    Top plate exhaust to bottom of motor. Not tuner. Top plate matches bottom of motor. Bottom plate already has large holes. It's fine. Just bolt on tuner. Just make sure top plate exhaust holes match block
    Last edited by Merc 2.5; 11-19-2018 at 03:20 PM.

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  8. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Merc 2.5 View Post
    Just to be curious what mid did you order? All I was sayin no matter the motor, 2.0-2.5 ,, plates and mid match is all u need ,
    Mid with hole uses plate with hole, then drop what ever motor on it, same with other mid, dosent use hose so use plate with no hose and drop on. And use top plate that went with bottom. I have a 2.5 200 on 2.4 everything else , jm2c. All my info on this comes from a real guru and wasnt gonna put me n position to blow my new mota. All works like its suppose to, hopefully this will help in the future
    The mid I ordered was listed as 8343A10/8343T10 150-200EFI fits 1990-2006 and it has the hole for the rubber hose for the idle relief. Those part numbers match what is listed for my engine for the 20" mid. So my understanding is that it should go together without question.

    I think from everyone's comments the important thing is that the bottom plate matches up with the mid section, and the top plate matched up with the power head. Maybe I could have gotten away with it the way I had it and then just block up the cowling hole, using the slotted vents, but I suspect the newer style ruber hose makes the engine idle quieter with less smoke. Of course I don't know that for sure, it just made sense to me.

  9. #53
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    Here are are photos of the two bottom plates side-by-side followed by the 2.4 mid, then the 2.5 mid. The plates are cut differently, and the mids are different. Hence the reason it appears they must be matched up.

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	423833Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	423834Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	423835

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  11. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glastron1987 View Post
    I think from everyone's comments the important thing is that the bottom plate matches up with the mid section, and the top plate matched up with the power head.
    I have never mixed and matched top and bottom halves of a 2 piece plate. I’m not sure that it’s a good idea at all. Here’s my take:

    1. A 2 piece plate is a matched set.

    2. The plate should match the powerhead.

    3. The leg should be compatible with the cowl set you're using.
    Josh Peterson

  12. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitro_rat View Post
    I have never mixed and matched top and bottom halves of a 2 piece plate. I’m not sure that it’s a good idea at all. Here’s my take:

    1. A 2 piece plate is a matched set.

    2. The plate should match the powerhead.

    3. The leg should be compatible with the cowl set you're using.
    I agree. Plates must match ,and bottom plate dictates mid.

  13. #56
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    Here's the 20" 2.5 mid all cleaned up and ready to go. Got lucky with the paint still being decent.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_New_2.5_Mid.jpg 
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