3 liter Sportmaster - need locking shifter?

[DangerNewb]

Mounted a 300 promax a few weeks ago and ran it a couple of times. Second time out, it came out of gear. I messed with it in my driveway and watched it do the same thing idling in gear on the hose. My boat has an N Control shift lever with a small spring loaded ball bearing that pops into a detent on the back side of the shifter. This does not lock the shifter. I'd say it more or less locates the shifter in the proper spot.

Anyhow, I've been told the 3 liter sportmasters do not lock themselves in gear the way a 2.5 does and that I need a locking shift lever. Any comments on that? And what shift levers are you guys using?

I've seen the Hardin 3 position locking levers but they lack the mounting point for the cable sheath/casing at about $150. https://www.cpperformance.com/p-692-...-controls.aspx

I've also seen an N Control locking lever but it's more like $330. https://www.cpperformance.com/p-1360...t-shifter.aspx

I was told the locking mechanism in the N Control shown here is a positive lock with a pin that drops into a hole for a solid hold.


Any others? Thanks.

[NICE PAIR]

Mounted a 300 promax a few weeks ago and ran it a couple of times. Second time out, it came out of gear. I messed with it in my driveway and watched it do the same thing idling in gear on the hose. My boat has an N Control shift lever with a small spring loaded ball bearing that pops into a detent on the back side of the shifter. This does not lock the shifter. I'd say it more or less locates the shifter in the proper spot.

Anyhow, I've been told the 3 liter sportmasters do not lock themselves in gear the way a 2.5 does and that I need a locking shift lever. Any comments on that? And what shift levers are you guys using?

I've seen the Hardin 3 position locking levers but they lack the mounting point for the cable sheath/casing at about $150. https://www.cpperformance.com/p-692-...-controls.aspx

I've also seen an N Control locking lever but it's more like $330. https://www.cpperformance.com/p-1360...t-shifter.aspx

I was told the locking mechanism in the N Control shown here is a positive lock with a pin that drops into a hole for a solid hold.


Any others? Thanks.

I have In-Control on twins. I put a bracket in front of my shifter that a rubber cord attaches to and once I'm out of the harbor, I pull the bungie up and over the shifters to hold them in gear. :-)

[DangerNewb]

Thanks Nice Pair. My lower had a ratcheting deal added to it I think. If i recall correctly, the 3 liters did not have this stock. If I put pressure on the lever beyond the location of being in forward gear, I can feel the lower pulsing through the lever so I'm reluctant to put a bungee on it. Figuring that can't be good for it?

Is your N control like mine with just a spring loaded ball bearing in a detent?

[Rowboat]

Check out our shifters. No detent required as they don't move from where you put them.
Check the Custom Lightweight Shifter post in Misc. Access.

[Z06man]

The Hardin 1 works fine you just need to add a bracket to hold cable.

[NICE PAIR]

Thanks Nice Pair. My lower had a ratcheting deal added to it I think. If i recall correctly, the 3 liters did not have this stock. If I put pressure on the lever beyond the location of being in forward gear, I can feel the lower pulsing through the lever so I'm reluctant to put a bungee on it. Figuring that can't be good for it?

Is your N control like mine with just a spring loaded ball bearing in a detent?

Yes on the detents, they are pretty weak. The ratchet lower was a modification, and I don't know if holding it in gear would be bad.
I did learn on my In-Controls that they are real close to being to short on the total travel. The adjustments on the XS's is critical.

[Capt.Insane-o]

They did the ratcheting mod wrong. It's relying on the flex in the shift rods, linkage and slack in the cable instead of the proper parts installed in the lower. If it jumps out of gear now it's already f-d up.

[DangerNewb]

They did the ratcheting mod wrong. It's relying on the flex in the shift rods, linkage and slack in the cable instead of the proper parts installed in the lower. If it jumps out of gear now it's already f-d up.

Thanks. I'll mention to the gentlemen I bought it from. He has a shop and works on this stuff all the time. He has offered to take it apart and check it out and repair as needed free of charge. I'm just trying to learn more about what I have.

For you guys who run 3 liter Sportmasters, do all of you run locking shifters? With no ratcheting mod? Or does the ratcheting mod make this necessary?

[NICE PAIR]

Thanks. I'll mention to the gentlemen I bought it from. He has a shop and works on this stuff all the time. He has offered to take it apart and check it out and repair as needed free of charge. I'm just trying to learn more about what I have.

For you guys who run 3 liter Sportmasters, do all of you run locking shifters? With no ratcheting mod? Or does the ratcheting mod make this necessary?

I run them on my 3.2 liters, the slop in the cables + the slop in the linkage can cause them to come out of gear once in a while. (non-ratcheting)
On a twin engine boat, there is slightly less of a chance to get on your head if a motor or lower locks up.
On a small light single, people like to have a ratcheting lower. The 3 liter never was supplied with one, so they are custom built.

my $ .02

[DangerNewb]

They did the ratcheting mod wrong. It's relying on the flex in the shift rods, linkage and slack in the cable instead of the proper parts installed in the lower. If it jumps out of gear now it's already f-d up.

I've done more reading but still haven't been able to get to the bottom of this. Looks like there are multiple ways to convert to ratcheting. Can anyone comment on what the "best" way is? Or point me to some reading? I'd like to make mine right for long term trouble free use.