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10-17-2018, 12:03 PM #15000 RPM
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Trying to make my own mold for a Mercury 260 pan.
I'll start by stating that I'm not brand new to fiberglass work, I've recored a few boats, replaced floors, stringers, fabricated some small stuff like mounting brackets, and small parts for RC cars from fiberglass...so I'm good with the basics. But I've always wanted to take something and make a mold from it so that I could reproduce it. I have a crappy Mercury 260 factory plastic pan that is cracked in a few places so i thought using it to make a nice fiberglass pan would be cool to try. I've been prepping it by filling some unnecessary holes, patching the cracks so that it at least will hold its shape while I am using it as a "plug". Being that it is plastic and in pretty decent shape on the exterior I figure it shouldn't be that hard to get it to release from the glass I plan to bury it in!
Looking for any constructive advice do's and don'ts that maybe I'm not thinking of...
My basic prep plan is this:
1. Patch and fill any cracks/splits and make the exterior of my existing plug as perfect as possible.
2. Wax it - looking for any advice on a mold release paste, pva, etc.
Questions:
1. Use Gelcote when laying up the mold or not necessary? I was thinking of using west system epoxy for the mold so that poly/vinylester wont want to stick to it. Although I don't plan to go into business making cowl pans - I may want to make more than one so I am aiming to make it a semi-legit mold for multiple use.
2. How many layers of mat do I need to make it? Add any good stuff like 1708? I have a ton of scrap mat, 1708, and cloth so I don't need to buy anything. Should I use some type of backing material before I pop out the plug? I thought about using some canned foam to make a backing that can be shaped flat on the bottom so that the mold can be stronger and have a nice base to sit on.
Thanks all!1976 Hydrostream Viper - 1500 Mercury I6
1985 21' Hustler - 2.4 200 Merc
1990 18' ArrowGlass CC 140 Johnson -SOLD
1987 21' Seebold Eagle 150 Merc
1990 15' Hydrostream Viper 150 Merc - SOLD
1977 16' Checkmate Trimate II 140 Johnson - SOLD
1969 13' Boston Whaler 40hp Merc - SOLD
Drive it like you stole it!
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10-17-2018, 05:31 PM #2
For a "small" mold like what you're doing, there are TONS of different ways to do it.
You may also want to take a look on YouTube for the remote control boat guys, and the audio subwoofer speaker making guys. There are thousands of little mold makers on youtube.
Anyone on this forum could give you a few words of inspiration, but these youtube folks show you how, show you the products used, and say what does and doesn't work. Just look out for the hack job guys who are good at editing their videos haha.
Later tonight i'll try to find a good one for you.1) 1995 14' Bayliner Restoration <--Click
2) Home-Made Tunnel-Boat Project <--Click
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10-17-2018, 06:19 PM #3Screaming And Flying!
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I have done this and still have the mold. You want to make the pan a little thicker by adding some layers of tape around the outside lip. Reason being, the glass pan will be thicker than the plastic. Make the mold out of poly and the parts out of epoxy. Matt glass for the mold and stick it to a flat piece of plywood to keep it flat. Best glass for the parts made with epoxy will be cloth 5 and 10 oz weights. The pan will need to be thin like the original. I made the glass edge thicker than the original plastic to hold the fasteners on my old Bridge port cowl for the rubber tie downs.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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10-17-2018, 06:26 PM #4
Yes many ways you can do it. What I've done before is
wax it
and then put pva over it
tooling gelcoat will be stronger than epoxy
once the tooling gelcoat hardens put several layers of fiberglass glass fabric/cloth over it using polyester
build up the thickness by using fiberglass mat and polyester
I find polyester is easier to glass with because it's not as thick at he epoxy, especially for intricate molds
U can also make a wooden box to fiberglass to the bottom of the mold that way it's easier to layup and wont flexLast edited by Aaronhl; 10-17-2018 at 06:30 PM.
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10-19-2018, 12:48 AM #5
If you are looking at youtube, you have a great resource in Fibre Glast. Go to their website and click on Learning Center. There are a few suppliers that have how-to videos. Easy Composites is another. The material suppliers want you to buy their materials, but most importantly they want you to be successful with their products, so their how-to info is usually on point. Especially with the basics.
But the vast majority of how-to videos, when watched with an experienced eye, appear to be made by people that aren't experienced at all. That was my diplomatic way of saying I think most of them are junk.
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10-19-2018, 11:02 AM #65000 RPM
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Yes, I've watched a lot of fiberglast videos - good for the basics. You tube I've found some that are decent but geared toward making automotive or motorcycle parts. I'm pretty confident in my ability to do this. My main reason for the post is to get some insight on products like waxes and release agents. Fiberglass work... I'm not a stranger - just a first time mold making attempt.
1976 Hydrostream Viper - 1500 Mercury I6
1985 21' Hustler - 2.4 200 Merc
1990 18' ArrowGlass CC 140 Johnson -SOLD
1987 21' Seebold Eagle 150 Merc
1990 15' Hydrostream Viper 150 Merc - SOLD
1977 16' Checkmate Trimate II 140 Johnson - SOLD
1969 13' Boston Whaler 40hp Merc - SOLD
Drive it like you stole it!
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10-19-2018, 11:09 AM #7Screaming And Flying!
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t-r regular mold release wax or if using parting film like pva along with wax, then use a non silicone wax like honey wax mold release.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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speedman79 thanked for this post
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10-19-2018, 11:38 AM #85000 RPM
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1976 Hydrostream Viper - 1500 Mercury I6
1985 21' Hustler - 2.4 200 Merc
1990 18' ArrowGlass CC 140 Johnson -SOLD
1987 21' Seebold Eagle 150 Merc
1990 15' Hydrostream Viper 150 Merc - SOLD
1977 16' Checkmate Trimate II 140 Johnson - SOLD
1969 13' Boston Whaler 40hp Merc - SOLD
Drive it like you stole it!
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10-19-2018, 12:46 PM #9
Wel thank you! Are you going on the Ct river run tomorrow? I’ll have the boat out there.
I’ve never made a mold myself, but like you, I’m not a stranger to fiberglass work.
My tunnel has come a long way since that thread. Still more to do on the setup though.
Keep the thread updated on your mold trials!
fyi- I love Jamestown Distributors for all my products. Local here in RI. Quick shipping to NY1) 1995 14' Bayliner Restoration <--Click
2) Home-Made Tunnel-Boat Project <--Click
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10-19-2018, 10:00 PM #105000 RPM
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I wont be at the CT river run no... now I'm really kicking myself that I didn't get my sh!t together in time. I have been recoring, redoing some upholstery, and rewiring my 76' Viper for over a year, I'm finally done but I need to just run it locally tomorrow and make sure its not having any issues after sitting a while.
1976 Hydrostream Viper - 1500 Mercury I6
1985 21' Hustler - 2.4 200 Merc
1990 18' ArrowGlass CC 140 Johnson -SOLD
1987 21' Seebold Eagle 150 Merc
1990 15' Hydrostream Viper 150 Merc - SOLD
1977 16' Checkmate Trimate II 140 Johnson - SOLD
1969 13' Boston Whaler 40hp Merc - SOLD
Drive it like you stole it!
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