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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by FUJIMO View Post
    no need to place pieces of solid wood where the holes are, replacing the plywood. make a fullsize one piece transom template. transfer onto A-B exterior ply, of the total thickness of transom ply you need. assemble this total thickness on the floor, with waterproof glue or epoxy or matt & resin, screwing together with drywall screws, which you can remove later. drywall screws bite & draw the wood together the best & are inexpensive. with all this said, I wish more people would use high density foam when rehabbing transoms & stringers. its so freaking easy & a superior product.
    Tell me more about the high density foam.
    brand ?
    can I layer it to get the curve my transom has ?
    specs on density/weight ?
    any problems with epoxy resin ?

    Thanks for your input, NP
    Wriggleys gum makes me think of boating, "Double your engines, Double your fun"



  2. #32
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    Day 5

    I didn't like the looks of the bond on the floor supports also the hull was pretty thin inside the supports.

    I guess there's no cure for Analism. :-)

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Wriggleys gum makes me think of boating, "Double your engines, Double your fun"



  3. Likes AZMIDLYF, tux974, TwzteD, afr, mrichartz liked this post
  4. #33
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    Very nice!.....
    BTW, do not do such a nice job cleaning up before pictures, we like to see the REAL mess these projects make.......

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  6. #34
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    Intresting looking stringer design, reminds me of a vinyl roof looks like the popped a mold off of one and glassed it into the boat.

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  8. #35
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    That was an excellent stringer set up. And way ahead of it's time. Very light and very effective.

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  10. #36
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    looks solid for sure, I guess alot of manufactures liked to use woven roven on the hulls back in the day, my last bullet was like that. it was super dry in spots im sure they were cheap on using resin to completely wet it out all the way since its so thick.

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  12. #37
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    How about twist?

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by FMP View Post
    How about twist?
    The boat is pretty light, the splash well is held in with screws, and it still seemed pretty resistant to twist. Even now, stripped it's not bad.
    The bottom is one maybe two layers of roving, the resin quantity seems right, the stringer system is pretty sloppy and the install of said system was weak @ best. I have a few ideas ..... I've found that while I'm grinding on the hull, I have time to grind out the ideas. ;-)
    Wriggleys gum makes me think of boating, "Double your engines, Double your fun"



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  15. #39
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    Make a lattice ? Core the sides?

  16. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by FMP View Post
    Make a lattice ? Core the sides?
    Dunno! still grinding ........... on ideas. ;-)
    Wriggleys gum makes me think of boating, "Double your engines, Double your fun"



  17. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by NICE PAIR View Post
    Do you remember dia. and pitch on the prop? it's been a couple of years for me. ;-)
    Nope. I was 11. We upgraded to a 3 cyl OMC 60 in a couple of years.
    OK, I got down off the porch and ran with the big dogs....kinda sore now....think I'll just lay here in the flowerbed for a while...


    1976 Hydrodyne 18 I-O
    1969 Allison 15R, 1973 Merc 1500 (project)
    1995 Harris toon



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  19. #42
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    Makes me itch just looking at the pictures. Lookin good.

    Rock
    Last edited by rock; 10-26-2018 at 10:07 AM.
    Team Junk

    No sparkling wiggles in here, only dump truck grinches.

    "Screamin Heathen"

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  21. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldskier View Post
    Nope. I was 11. We upgraded to a 3 cyl OMC 60 in a couple of years.
    Evidently to go to the small gearcase, they changed ratio's. Our old 50 and 75 split case lowers ran 12" x whatever pitch. these little bullet cases run 10/10.25 x whatever pitch. Guessing more hp than we had, smaller prop, means taller gears. :-)
    Wriggleys gum makes me think of boating, "Double your engines, Double your fun"



  22. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by NICE PAIR View Post
    Tell me more about the high density foam.
    brand ?
    can I layer it to get the curve my transom has ?
    specs on density/weight ?
    any problems with epoxy resin ?
    ...120 lb density is nice for transom foam. you pick the brand. the core is not where the strength is mostly, it comes from the laminate on both sides of any stringer, tranverse stringer, bulkhead, transom, etc. I've purchased hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of CoreCell. same with DivinyCell. so I recommend them, but any PVC foam will do that you can get. it all bends & can be vacuum bagged in place. before use, drill a lot of random 1/8" holes in the foam for air/bedding compound escape. Epoxy is fine but vinylester works well too.
    Thanks for your input, NP
    ...hope this helps...

  23. #45
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    I will look into the 120lb for transom, want to use DivinyCell for the floor, do you see any need for the extremely heavy density on the floor (skinned both sides) I did my Skater with epoxy and am loving it mostly cause it cures like an old guy works .... sloooow.

    Thanks again for your input. NP
    Wriggleys gum makes me think of boating, "Double your engines, Double your fun"



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