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  1. #16
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    Have you decided what you are going to fill the void with????

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1954bmw View Post
    Have you decided what you are going to fill the void with????
    void ??
    Wriggleys gum makes me think of boating, "Double your engines, Double your fun"



  3. #18
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    Day 3 ... took most of the day to finish grind and clean up.
    I put one layer of 1700 bi-directional with 635 thin epoxy ... just to put a little where Glasspar forgot to.
    Spent the rest of the day cleaning up the mess i made in the flurry.

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    Who has an Idea what kind of pour foam I can use to fill the fiberglass stringers (floor support) with? looking for high strength not the kind that vaporizes with use.
    Wriggleys gum makes me think of boating, "Double your engines, Double your fun"



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  5. #19
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    Yes sir, what are you going to use for the transom????

  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1954bmw View Post
    Yes sir, what are you going to use for the transom????
    I am planning on layering in 3/8 plywood as Glasspar did, the big difference is I will seal the wood and glass each layer in. I also plan on putting a plug of solid wood @ each of the holes so no end grain is exposed. I figure if theirs lasted 50 years, there is a chance I won't have to do this again. ;-)
    Wriggleys gum makes me think of boating, "Double your engines, Double your fun"



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  8. #21
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    Marine ply, Baltic birch, mahogany ply?

  9. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by FMP View Post
    Marine ply, Baltic birch, mahogany ply?
    Probably marine ply, are there any non wood fillers that have the same strength as bent laminated plywood?
    Because of the splash well, you cannot run knees up very high. Glasspar just built up fiberglass 12" wide on the center of hull up the transom plus the side walls of the sump/center ribs were extra heavy.
    Wriggleys gum makes me think of boating, "Double your engines, Double your fun"



  10. #23
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    Had the same situation, splash well. Built it 1 3/4"marine + mahogany . Stringers went high and floor tied all together. Hundreds of hrs later, 8 season of fun in whitecaps 80% of the time, glad I went thick. Plus the glass layers to the corners and floor and stringers and bilge area. Tinted it white. Not a heavy motor at 260lbs , 140 Chrysler. Similar to the Johnson.
    Last edited by FMP; 10-19-2018 at 05:37 PM. Reason: Stupid autocorrect

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  12. #24
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  14. #25
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    4lbs...Yes, No?

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  16. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by XstreamVking View Post
    Here's some foam options for you....http://www.uscomposites.com/foam.html
    Quote Originally Posted by FMP View Post
    4lbs...Yes, No?
    I'm having second thoughts on foam, if it bulges the bottom, I'm screwed, I'm contemplating pulling the rest of the floor and using the center floor supports to layup some knees against. If I reinforce the hull 12" wide with walls to form the sump and also use the walls as knees, I can kill 2 birds with less than 35 rocks. just thinkin out loud. ;-)
    Wriggleys gum makes me think of boating, "Double your engines, Double your fun"



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  18. #27
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    no need to place pieces of solid wood where the holes are, replacing the plywood. make a fullsize one piece transom template. transfer onto A-B exterior ply, of the total thickness of transom ply you need. assemble this total thickness on the floor, with waterproof glue or epoxy or matt & resin, screwing together with drywall screws, which you can remove later. drywall screws bite & draw the wood together the best & are inexpensive. with all this said, I wish more people would use high density foam when rehabbing transoms & stringers. its so freaking easy & a superior product.

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  20. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by FUJIMO View Post
    no need to place pieces of solid wood where the holes are, replacing the plywood. make a fullsize one piece transom template. transfer onto A-B exterior ply, of the total thickness of transom ply you need. assemble this total thickness on the floor, with waterproof glue or epoxy or matt & resin, screwing together with drywall screws, which you can remove later. drywall screws bite & draw the wood together the best & are inexpensive. with all this said, I wish more people would use high density foam when rehabbing transoms & stringers. its so freaking easy & a superior product.
    The transom has a bow built in to it, I plan on laminating (for lack of a better word) it in 4 layers of 3/8.

    Does high density foam have the strength for a transom?

    This particular boat has no room for decent knees, and the splash well is not a structural part of the boat. Now that I said that, I'm putting in a new floor, I could glass in the well and use it for added strength.
    Wriggleys gum makes me think of boating, "Double your engines, Double your fun"



  21. #29
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    Day 4

    Well I couldn't do it, If I foamed under the floor and anything went wrong, I'd have an UN-repairable boat

    So here's the new deal.

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    Wriggleys gum makes me think of boating, "Double your engines, Double your fun"



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  23. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by tux974 View Post
    Very nice!....
    I see you like playing with that nice Skil saw, plywood and fiberglass......
    I can't help myself Tony, I've got it out again.

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    Wriggleys gum makes me think of boating, "Double your engines, Double your fun"



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