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  1. #46
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    Barrel looks bigger, pumpkin carver.
    Inline 6 cleaver needed

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  3. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by FMP View Post
    Though I noticed a plastic filler ring on my neighbors when the prop was off, yours have that? Cut it off, is the barrel outside larger than the case, looks like it?
    It does have the plastic filler ring.
    The barrel of the prop is not bigger than the case. They're exactly the same size.

    Quote Originally Posted by NICE PAIR View Post
    if you remove the lip, you could get some exhaust leaking @ the gap. Might cause some cavitation on take off.

    If you can chuck it in a lathe and cut enough off the O.D. to fit inside the lower it would be better. Give yourself some clearance in case there is some run out. (watch your fingers and hands)
    A little cavitation taking off isn't an issue, I can deal with that. But yea - a spinning cleaver could be a dangerous situation huh?

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  5. #48
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    The prop "sleeve" looks plenty thick. Just remove enough material to make it fit.

    If cut off it would "ventilate" not "cavitate" on take off. Stimulate to over hub, or removing pvs plugs.

    How much further does it need to go in order to contact the thrust washer?

  6. #49
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    any chance you could simply add a spacer between the thrust washer and prop to at least give it try, if it works then turn the diameter down till it fits, just a thought.

  7. #50
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    Same size, might as well.

  8. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whaaaaat View Post
    How much further does it need to go in order to contact the thrust washer?
    I'm going to measure the differences tonight.

    Quote Originally Posted by 1954bmw View Post
    any chance you could simply add a spacer between the thrust washer and prop to at least give it try, if it works then turn the diameter down till it fits, just a thought.
    I may just double up on the thrust washer - Not sure if that's goint to work, I don't think it will keep the front of the prop centered... but i'll throw some things on there and see how it all fits.

  9. #52
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    Never mind... I just followed the recess that was already on it and hacked it off with a 9” angle grinder... carefully. Still need to de-burr it fits snug! I can fit a credit card in the gap... tight though.
    I didn’t balance it yet, it was getting late and that’s on the to-do list.
    The plastic ring is still in the lower unit housing though.

    Also dropped the jack plate 2.25 inches, and raised the motor to the bottom holes, up 3”. So a total of .75” higher than the last test.

    With the ****ty weather, I don’t think I’ll get to test it until Sunday.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 8955DC6A-F1D5-4C3A-A741-E61B4122F706.jpg   6BB030CE-1948-4E6D-B18F-99F1C85FFA4F.jpg  

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  11. #53
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    Since you have a couple of days, maybe grind a little more clearance on that prop barrel, if it moves forward a little under throttle, you don't want it to chew up your new motor. Maybe do a heavy debur, say at 45 degrees, more clearance without loosing much length.

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  13. #54
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    I'd say it's definitely going to touch under load. The rubber hub will flex that much even without any prop shaft deflection.

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  15. #55
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    Do you have a side profile vid of the boat running? Those engines are great, a little heavy but make power for sure. I did see that someone tried it on an Allison, ran low 70s?? I'll have to find it.

  16. #56
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    Did 34mph on a 18 Lund , 37 one person, 32 three people. Other neighbors toon with Merc 90 Sea two stroke beat it
    Last edited by FMP; 10-11-2018 at 09:03 PM.

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whaaaaat View Post
    I'd say it's definitely going to touch under load. The rubber hub will flex that much even without any prop shaft deflection.
    The prop seats against the thrust washer, not the rubber hub. The forward movement of the prop will be stopped by the thrust washer, but there still might not be enough room once the prop seats on the washer. I'd take another 1/8" off at least.
    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by WavetoWave View Post
    Do you have a side profile vid of the boat running? Those engines are great, a little heavy but make power for sure. I did see that someone tried it on an Allison, ran low 70s?? I'll have to find it.
    I have several on my Youtube channel. User name: Turbobandit search a video "home made cat tunnel hull with mercury 115 pro xs"
    At speed, it runs very flat. I think my balance is being thrown off by the motor too low. I keep raising it, and it gets better and better.

    Quote Originally Posted by FMP View Post
    Did 34mph on a 18 Lund , 37 one person, 32 three people. Other neighbors toon with Merc 90 Sea two stroke beat it
    Personal best of 56mph on this thing so far... for a quick burst. 50 no problem.... but starts to propoise a bit. maybe I'm just scared.

    Quote Originally Posted by flabum1017 View Post
    The prop seats against the thrust washer, not the rubber hub. The forward movement of the prop will be stopped by the thrust washer, but there still might not be enough room once the prop seats on the washer. I'd take another 1/8" off at least.
    Agreed - I'm going to take off some more material. Sunday is my next trial day.

  19. #59
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    The Lund just seems too heavy for it, his dealer installed a spitfire four aluminum. Probably not the best choice. Going with a two foot chop and wind the hull picked up a bit, pad hull but just can't get the speed with the 115 to lift it. Boat will hold 600+ motor.
    Your light boat different story, maybe grow a set of pumpkins.
    Last edited by FMP; 10-12-2018 at 08:17 AM.

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  21. #60
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    I just bought a brand new boat with a 20" Mercury 115 PRO XS with the std 2.09 gear case (not the command thrust). As soon as I got it past 40 mph it would porpoise so bad that it became scary. Yes you can trim it down to stop the boat from hopping but then you scrub rpm and speed. The motor is at the highest position so I can't go any higher. I know motors mounted too low is a major cause for porpoising but it's not the case for my application. I was running a 3 blade Mercury Laser II prop which produces a lot of bow lift (which I don't need). I'm now running a 4 blade Quicksilver Q4 (same prop as Mercury Spitfire Q7) which are stern lifting props. I didn't lose any top speed but cut the porposing by 50%. I did gain acceleration, lower planning speeds, and better holding power in turns. I can now run in a neutral trim position without bouncing all over the place. Personally this motor is a monster (in a good way) compared to my old Mercury 125. I've still got a lot more testing but that's part of the fun.

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