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09-21-2018, 10:26 PM #1
Mercury 2.0L V6 Flywheel and Stator For High RPM
Guys, I'm not far away from getting my 1996 2.0L fat block build started.
I need suggestions on which flywheel and stator I'll need for 7,000 rpm operation. Both were destroyed when the flywheel lost a magnet and collided with the windings of the stator. I need reliability more than I need to power a bunch of electronics. I want this build to turn 7,000 if I need it to. I'll buy new steel cages for the rod bearings to replace the nylon ones that came out of the stock block. I've got a complete set of good 1.312" carbs, I'm removing the oil injection and already have the Mercury block-off kit. I will be cleaning-up the exhaust chest and sloping the exits toward the bottom of the block.
What else has to be done?
Gordon
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09-22-2018, 07:51 AM #2
Hmm never considered this as I too am putting a 2.0L together so Im interested in what the RPM limit of the stock flywheel and stator is. Whats the max RPM for the plastic cage bearings?
Hydrostream dreamin
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09-24-2018, 05:24 PM #3
Anyone have suggestions on which flywheel and stator I need for my 7,000 RPM 1996 carb 2.0L fat-block motor?
Thanks, Gordon
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09-24-2018, 06:43 PM #4
9 or 16amp systems
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09-24-2018, 06:44 PM #5
Plastic cages bearings wont last past 6k I believe
Last edited by Merc 2.5; 09-24-2018 at 06:48 PM.
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09-24-2018, 07:03 PM #6
Could you give part numbers? I need to start chasing down the pieces. I'm definitely replacing the stock nylon cages with steel....I was shocked to see them being used.
Thanks for the inputs!
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09-24-2018, 07:08 PM #7
I've had stock early 2.0's up to mid 7k's with no reliability issues at all (100's of hours). These had 9A electrics and steel caged rod bearings factory installed. Finally grenaded my '79 at 8,000 RPM's, it was the rod bolts that let go. For what you want to do I would run 9 or 16A electrics, the "racing" pro marine metal caged rod bearings, and the pro marine rod bolts.
I think an early non-oiler 2.0 crank with a small bearing 260 top cap would probably work in your block. I would also fill the void where the oil pump gear rides in the block with marinetex epoxy.
That should give you a nice high winding motor! Run a 2:1 lower and find a nice 22 pitch prop, you'll hurt the feelings of so e "big motas" on the river!Josh Peterson
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Bruce2 liked this post
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09-24-2018, 07:08 PM #8
We have a member here goes by bullet123, as in sure other have tons also , I know he has the flywheel, switchboxes if needed,maybe a rectifier, if not I do , only other thing you would have fo find is 16amp stator and a trigger unless yours will work,, we can get u a system out together if that's what your looking for, if your going all new your looking in 1k range
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09-24-2018, 08:04 PM #9
Don’t like the plastic caged bearings. Flywheels shouldn’t be an issue at 7k. Many many motors turning 7 with stock steel flywheels. The lightweight flywheels are easier on top crank bearing at really high rpm, but at 7 I wouldn’t worry about swapping flywheels. Motor might spool up a little faster if ya got a light boat. If ya a little on the overweight side, ya might actually like the little heavier wheels.
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09-24-2018, 08:08 PM #10
Were all the stock 135/150 2.0's outfitted with the plastic cage bearings or is it hit and miss?
Hydrostream dreamin
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09-24-2018, 08:17 PM #11
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nitro_rat liked this post
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09-24-2018, 08:26 PM #12
Yeah, I’m not real sure on that one either. I’m not wanting to scare ya ta death over the plastic bearings. I just personally swap em for steel. But I honestly can tell ya, I don’t think I’ve ever had one tow up and it was because the plastic cage failed. It just makes me feel warm and fuzzy inside knowin I ain’t got no plastic rod bearings in my hot rod mota that might cause shrapnel to hit me in the back of the fat head when that raggidy junk lets go when I’m in it to win it!
Last edited by FORBESAUTO; 09-24-2018 at 08:29 PM.
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nitro_rat liked this post
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09-24-2018, 09:25 PM #13
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09-25-2018, 04:59 PM #14
Ya I believe merc claimed they ran "cooler" but I think they meant say cheaper!
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