What do you guys use for trim switches with Seastar Hydraulic Helm?

[Miss Isle]

Been looking to freshen up my 89 Hydrostream Voyager XT, and I have a question about options for steering wheel mounted trim switches. I used to use one on a coiled cord, but when I switched to the Seastar helm, the steering wheel never zero's back to it's original place, so eventually the cord gets wrapped up tight around the steering... Very unsafe...

I had just taken it off for a while and used the trim on the remote, as it's located pretty close to the steering wheel, and I found that I could use my pinky finger to adjust trim while running, but again, apparently I'm not very good with that setup, it's uncomfortable and I have to twist my hand in all kinds of weird contortions depending on where my hand on the wheel is during the counter steering of the chine walking. Thank god I don't have any feedback from the engine like when I was using double cables.

Anyway, I had seen years ago, of a foot mounted trim switch, but I wrote that one off, because when I'm getting after it, I like to plant my left foot out in the middle of the boat and push my ass back in the seat, as creating a three points of security in the seat, with the third being my right foot on the hotfoot, Keeps me in the seat really well... So having a foot control trim, isn't going to be comfortable for me to use.

I've also seen the 'turn signal' style trim switch, but again, it appears to me that as I'm adjusting the steering for chine walking, that may be a tad more difficult to be precise in adjustments.

I had also, at one time seen a steering wheel mounted trim switch that was cordless, it apparently had a brass plate under the steering wheel that the wheel made connections to, similar to a horn button on your car.

I haven't been able to find that particular switch since... Any ideas.

Stay tuned as I have quite a few other questions to ask, as I've been looking around and am not seeing things available for sale, like I used to for OMC Loopers...

[vnemous]

Turn signals

[XstreamVking]

Just get the teleflex turn signal style switches. They work good. Do the dual for the jack plate and trim.

[Miss Isle]

Ok, I don't use an adjustable jack plate, as there are none on the market that bring the motor close enough to the transom for me... So, I made my own 1" jack, and I just have to use the factory motor mount holes on the clamp and make small adjustments there... I used to use 10" of jack and that worked well when I was in stock 200 mode, but when I added the V8, the extra weight of the engine really messed with the angle of attack of the boat, due to too long a lever action...

Which brings me to another question... I am considering modifying my old 200 midsection to powerhead adapter, probably by taking a v6 one and a v8 one, cutting them both and welding the two halves back together to make an adapter plate, because I'm sure there isn't anything on the market that would accommodate what I want to do.

I'm thinking that I can reduce a considerable amount of engine weight by putting the v8 on a v6 midsection (as I'm already using the v6 gearcase anyway), and I have that midsection already has considerable exhaust modifications done to it, and the v8 is still stock.

However, by looking at diagrams of both midsections, it appears that the V8 has a much larger tuned exhaust chamber, and changing over to the v6 may hurt the performance of the v8...

I don't think there would be any strength issues by going to the v6 mid, but anyone having any experience in trying this and their results would be great.

Finding a F-1 midsection is pretty much out of the question, so I'm thinking of working with what I have...

Which leads into another thought... The size difference between the cowl on the v6 and v8 is enormous. The engines have the same footprint, so I don't see why the v8 cowl has to be so large and heavy. I was thinking that if I was able to mount the v8 on the v6 mid, I'd also install the v6 lower cowl, and take two v6 uppers, cut the top off one, and the bottom off the other and fiberglass them back together to make a taller v6 style cowl that would fit over the v8...

I am wanting to do this for other reasons also... Quite frankly a v8 on a 20' stream rated for 235HP is almost impossible to insure, as well as the water cops who know what they are looking at would have an opportunity to mess with me... If I just modify the v6 to accomodate the v8, the VIN would be right for the boat and most would never notice the difference.

[Miss Isle]

While I'm at it talking about steering...Does anyone have a factory Hydrostream steering wheel center they'd be willing to part with? Mine has gone missing... It's always been a problem popping off, and the dealer I had bought it from wrapped electrical tape around it to try to keep in on, but that didn't work very well... and over the years, now it's gone missing.

Which is no great loss, as the logo under the clear plastic center had degraded over the years and looks like it has a sever case of acne... Always wanted to replace it, but never found one...I'm sure that's going to be even harder now that the boat is nearly 30 years old.

[BOATMANBLUES]

The exhaust header on a v8 keeps sloping out for two more cylinders...the footprint is not the same..thats why the exhaust chamber is much bigger ...has to get rid of more exhaust too...
One of the common problems back when people were running these on their everyday rides was the powerhead would walk around on the adapter,squash out the gasket and get water in the bottom cylinders...between the length of the crank and the torque of the motor,the v8 mid was almost too light....
v6 pans are too small...that powerhead just does fit inside a v8 cowl..
the v6 gearcases run fine on them, but even they don't hold up near as long as the bigger v8 gearcase...

[Miss Isle]

The exhaust header on a v8 keeps sloping out for two more cylinders...the footprint is not the same..thats why the exhaust chamber is much bigger ...has to get rid of more exhaust too...
One of the common problems back when people were running these on their everyday rides was the powerhead would walk around on the adapter,squash out the gasket and get water in the bottom cylinders...between the length of the crank and the torque of the motor,the v8 mid was almost too light....
v6 pans are too small...that powerhead just does fit inside a v8 cowl..
the v6 gearcases run fine on them, but even they don't hold up near as long as the bigger v8 gearcase...

Thanks for the input. Seems like I'm kinda stuck with 100lbs more hanging on the back... I really don't like the angle of attack with the v8 on the voyager, hence the 1" home made jack plate.

I've been wanting to add a reserve fuel tank, under the rear seat, and I was hoping to be able to salvage some extra weight from other places to compensate.

I've been thinking about shedding some weight by getting rid of the foam... I'm willing to bet that after nearly 30 years, it's waterlogged... My question now is... and I've already tried to search for build threads on voyager/vegas hulls is foam removal. I'm guessing that there is foam under the floor, and not just up under the gunwales... If anyone can point me to a build thread so I can see what's involved, I'd appreciate it. I figure if it's time to update the old gal, I'd better do it right.

Also, as far as the big v8, I like the power it gives me, and it's totally stock, minus the VRO and performs almost as well as my Monty Racing Mod III River racer 3.0Liter looper. Which is a bit temperamental, and is currently shed one cylinder... Maybe the money would be more well spent getting that powerhead up and running again...Lose the 100 lbs and probably be more fuel efficient in the process.

I had kicked around the idea of putting both engines up for sale and keeping the one that didn't... but I really like having a 'spare bullet' in the arsenal... Nothing worse than engine problems shortly before a planned outing. In fact, I'd probably be better off scrounging another v6 or two, in full dress, just to prevent me from going down...

[nitro_rat]

x3 on the teleflex turn signal trim, it's the way to fly!

There used to be several minimum setback hydraulic plates available. Land and Sea, maybe Bob's and a few others had them. They used two rams, one on each side of the motor and a Merc style trim pump in the boat. Kinda hard to find now days but they turn up in the classifieds occasionally. Sometimes they are piggybacked with another plate for more setback.

I've never had one but a friend of mine who was a Stream dealer back in the day has a V8 on a Venus. He says the V8 is too much weight and the handling is poor compared to a V6. I've never ridden in or even seen that boat...

Were it mine I'd hang a 225PM on it and be done, once you go black you'll never go back!

[powerabout]

Ok, I don't use an adjustable jack plate, as there are none on the market that bring the motor close enough to the transom for me... So, I made my own 1" jack, and I just have to use the factory motor mount holes on the clamp and make small adjustments there... I used to use 10" of jack and that worked well when I was in stock 200 mode, but when I added the V8, the extra weight of the engine really messed with the angle of attack of the boat, due to too long a lever action...

Which brings me to another question... I am considering modifying my old 200 midsection to powerhead adapter, probably by taking a v6 one and a v8 one, cutting them both and welding the two halves back together to make an adapter plate, because I'm sure there isn't anything on the market that would accommodate what I want to do.

I'm thinking that I can reduce a considerable amount of engine weight by putting the v8 on a v6 midsection (as I'm already using the v6 gearcase anyway), and I have that midsection already has considerable exhaust modifications done to it, and the v8 is still stock.

However, by looking at diagrams of both midsections, it appears that the V8 has a much larger tuned exhaust chamber, and changing over to the v6 may hurt the performance of the v8...

I don't think there would be any strength issues by going to the v6 mid, but anyone having any experience in trying this and their results would be great.

Finding a F-1 midsection is pretty much out of the question, so I'm thinking of working with what I have...

Which leads into another thought... The size difference between the cowl on the v6 and v8 is enormous. The engines have the same footprint, so I don't see why the v8 cowl has to be so large and heavy. I was thinking that if I was able to mount the v8 on the v6 mid, I'd also install the v6 lower cowl, and take two v6 uppers, cut the top off one, and the bottom off the other and fiberglass them back together to make a taller v6 style cowl that would fit over the v8...

I am wanting to do this for other reasons also... Quite frankly a v8 on a 20' stream rated for 235HP is almost impossible to insure, as well as the water cops who know what they are looking at would have an opportunity to mess with me... If I just modify the v6 to accomodate the v8, the VIN would be right for the boat and most would never notice the difference.

The V8 mid is bigger because the powerhead base is longer. Get a v8 gasket and compare it to your v6.
F1 v8 has water, some bolts and exhaust in the different place so lots to modify to get a production v8 to fit not to mention where the shift shaft would end up?

[moatorbotin]

I've had foot mounted and turn signals, I am fine with both. My boat had a foot rest glassed into the floor where the trim buttons were mounted, so I was able to use my left foot as you describe. My vegas has turn signal style, and it's fine, but I liked the foot better.

[specboatops]

Foot mounted.