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10-01-2018, 01:20 PM #76
Yeeeepppp ....
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10-01-2018, 02:07 PM #77Member
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Let's hope so. I'm going out in a couple of hours. I will post the results.
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10-02-2018, 06:37 AM #78Member
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Well, adjusting the TPS didnt help. If anything I might have lost 100 rpm. All I could get was 5100 rpm. What would be the next thing to look at? Could the ecm be malfunctioning?
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10-02-2018, 07:35 AM #79
3 wire switch , which wire did you pin into ?
How did you adjust switch ?
I ask because when they are low ( below scale) they normally won't even start and run. Let alone run well.
If you are in fact on the correct wire , the loss of 100 rpm .... I wouldn't run it again until I was certain the issue is not mechanical .
I don't remember , Did you do a compression check ?
How did the plugs look after yesterdays run . All the same , or do you have one hole that looks different ?
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10-02-2018, 08:12 AM #805000 RPM
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10-02-2018, 08:39 AM #81Member
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10-02-2018, 09:41 AM #82Member
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10-02-2018, 10:35 AM #835000 RPM
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10-08-2018, 07:20 AM #84Member
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Have you checked the relief holes in the tuner and verified they aren't carbon plugged. If you can't get air out, you certainly can't get it in.
"We, the unwilling, led by the unknowing, are doing the impossible for the ungrateful. We have done so much, for so long, with so little, we are now qualified to do anything with nothing."
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10-08-2018, 07:25 AM #85Member
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No I haven't. How would I get to them?
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10-10-2018, 10:29 PM #86
The mystery motor ... I usually wind up with those somehow ...
Center wire of the three is correct.
The ones with bad cranks in them usually had big enough chunks ate out of the journal that a bearing would drop in the hole and lock the motor up. Then it would start and run again, till it did it again. Mostly at idle, and only seen it on real early model cranks with the twin-row mains.
They did have a run of bad X cranks that broke or lifted journal material at around 500 hours. But other than that, they have been pretty reliable.
The honeycomb in the factory inner can ( tuner ) is for cooling. It's purpose in life is to help keep the lower gasket alive.
Turned sleeve .. could be, if it was mine it would have moved enough that the ring would have went into the port got stuck and made a mess ...
Did this boat run much better at one time ? And do this all of a sudden ? Over time ?
Propped wrong ? Did you buy it this way ?
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10-11-2018, 05:24 AM #87Member
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Yes I bought it this way. When I test drove it I never ran it up to WOT because of it being such a small timber infested lake. As I mentioned before the guy I bought it off of was an older gent and his tech friend may have done something to limit this motor for safety. As far as props I have two. A Hydromotive 24p and a merc 26p neither of which will go over 5000 rpm
Last edited by Freedom92; 10-11-2018 at 05:26 AM.
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10-11-2018, 01:12 PM #885000 RPM
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Funny, I have the exact motor outside in the pile, we are starting to rob parts off of it. Took it off a heavy center console, would not turn over 5K no matter how you propped it. Ran like a dog. Tried everything, finally put a 225 Opti on the boat and it does well. The thing would run rich and foul plugs. Wasted a lot of time on it. Was a mystery. I will tear it apart this winter to see what I can find. It's got to be mechanical.
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Freedom92 liked this post
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10-11-2018, 02:49 PM #89
You might want to do a fuel pressure reading at WOT under load, i just had an electric fuel pump that pressure tested fine at idle but under load it would drop to 20 pounds, put another electric fuel pump on it and pressure stayed at 36 pounds, used a dyno to find it.
Daddy taught me to never force anything but to just get a bigger hammer.
1995 19'0" Champion bass boat
1995 200 XRI
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05-04-2019, 02:07 PM #90Member
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What would a 300 pm ecu be worth? I found one but it seems high to me. Would it be a better idea just to have my 225 efi remapped? If so how much does that service usually run? Mine is the single Motorola box on a 2002 225 efi
Last edited by Freedom92; 05-05-2019 at 09:13 PM.
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