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  1. #46
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    Ok so here is my winter plan...
    Compression is on the low side 90-100 psi... not great I know.
    so my plan is to have the cylinders bored at 050 some pistons and rings.
    then I like will lap the reed cages with Carson reeds installed. Mild cut of the tuner not really wanting a screamer. Empty out the intake with external injection setup and I would like to mill the heads but I don’t want to go so high so I can keep running regular as this is a fishing boat setup and then have the ecu re flashed. My question is should I wait to have it all put together before I get the computer reflashed? Also how much psi is the sorta max number before I need to switch to premium gas? And if you may happen to know what the volume would be to achieve that based on an 050 overbore.

  2. #47
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    Heads Cut for regular ... Is that like ... Jumbo Shrimp ?

    Whatever they are now , is whats meant for regular to mid-grade fuel .

    Fresh bore should put a stock port 250 @ 110 - 120 psi depending on which sleeves are in the block , exhaust port ht/wt , chamfer . Current head cc etc .

    Boring .050 over ? Nevermind ... I don't need to know why ..

    Moving the injectors outside ... gets all this out of the jet stream ..


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  4. #48
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    So no point in tightening up the heads if I want to stay on regular and mid grade?

  5. #49
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    There are a lot of projects I'll jump on board with , but , playing the :

    " How much compression can 89 octane tolerate before it sticks one "

    version of Russian Roulette is one I don't even want to guess at .

    And really there is no need to . The factory has done all of that already . They consulted with Jack Benny , built the parts for that purpose and printed it in the users manual ..

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  7. #50
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    haha ok..... chicken... lol jk

  8. #51
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    Chicken : Yep , Southern Fried Spicy ...

    Ahh no , I meant to say I gotz this SuperSecretPolyWizzBangChamber design just for you ! 150 psi with 89 octane for only 479.95 a pair ..

    But all kiddin aside , if you do everything else . Just leave the squeeze out of it , you'll have a really good running motor .

    You can roll the upper corners out at the top like an opti . Stay within 65% of the bore size and it wont affect reliability .



    Gasket match your exhaust logs ...



    Of course it's easier to do with the sleeves out , and for stock port heights you dont need near this much window . But the stock stuff is really small considering the size of the cylinder it's feeding ...




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  10. #52
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    Awesome, so when I send you my motor and come down to okechobee is Jan you will have her all ready to scream and fly? Haha

  11. #53
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    Ill take 12 of the sleeves on the right.
    2 of the intakes with the injectors moved to the outside.
    2 orders of fried chicken.
    4 of the super secret poly wiz bang chamber heads.

    To go please

  12. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by strat250 View Post
    Awesome, so when I send you my motor and come down to okechobee is Jan you will have her all ready to scream and fly? Haha
    772-408-7377

    Ill take 12 of the sleeves on the right.
    2 of the intakes with the injectors moved to the outside.
    2 orders of fried chicken.
    4 of the super secret poly wiz bang chamber heads.

    To go please


    "T" I kind-a had you down for a pair of "big bores" and "billet heads" ....

    But we got weld up's too ..





    3462 cc short blocks ...






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  14. #55
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    Chaz,You got my number don't you... We do get snow for 4 months a year and I get bored.

    This is what I ran for the last 3 winters in a ski doo snow-x chassis. https://www.2strokeheads.com/index.php/big-bore-kits-2
    This is what im looking at for the new Polaris's we have in the garage this year. http://bikemanperformance.com/snowmo...17-800-ho.html

    Im thinking on my pair of 250 efi's , its got to be 90-91 pump gas the way we go thru it.

  15. #56
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    So what is freight on 2 crated 250's from 49684 to 34990 ?.

  16. #57
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    I guess for now I would just like for my 225 to run the way it's supposed to. Right now it won't go over 5200 rpm with either of my props...26p trophy and a 24p Hydromotive. I'm leaning towards fuel pressure right now as its showing 27 psi with the engine not running. I've been told that it should show 36-39 psi in that state. Chaz you seem to know every molecule of these things. Am I headed in the right direction? I did replace a dead coil with no improvement in performance.

  17. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by big tom View Post
    So what is freight on 2 crated 250's from 49684 to 34990 ?.
    Ifin I have to look , I'm goin with the first . I'm sure you would put much more effort in that end of things ...

    You can bet whatever it is to get them here , it will be the same to send em home ..

    Freedom92
    I guess for now I would just like for my 225 to run the way it's supposed to. Right now it won't go over 5200 rpm with either of my props...26p trophy and a 24p Hydromotive. I'm leaning towards fuel pressure right now as its showing 27 psi with the engine not running. I've been told that it should show 36-39 psi in that state. Chaz you seem to know every molecule of these things. Am I headed in the right direction? I did replace a dead coil with no improvement in performance.


    So you have been running it wide open with a dead hole and down 10 psi of fuel pressure .
    Honestly , you might want to put the brakes on .. STOP ... and start from the begining .
    Do a compression or leak down to make sure it not hurt . Good time to check your reeds make sure they are all there , and functioning . Make sure you now have spark on all 6 holes . Start at the tank vent , make sure a mud dobber hasn't built a nest in there , the pick up - fuel line has no obstructions . Pulse pump is working , VST float is not stuck , high pres pump is good , reg is operational , filters are clean ... if you don't have the tools to check these things ... take your boat to someone who does ..

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  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chaz View Post
    Ifin I have to look , I'm goin with the first . I'm sure you would put much more effort in that end of things ...

    You can bet whatever it is to get them here , it will be the same to send em home ..



    So you have been running it wide open with a dead hole and down 10 psi of fuel pressure .
    Honestly , you might want to put the brakes on .. STOP ... and start from the begining .
    Do a compression or leak down to make sure it not hurt . Good time to check your reeds make sure they are all there , and functioning . Make sure you now have spark on all 6 holes . Start at the tank vent , make sure a mud dobber hasn't built a nest in there , the pick up - fuel line has no obstructions . Pulse pump is working , VST float is not stuck , high pres pump is good , reg is operational , filters are clean ... if you don't have the tools to check these things ... take your boat to someone who does ..
    [/INDENT][/FONT][/COLOR][/LEFT]
    Ive done a compression and leakdown and are all good. This motor has less than 100 hours on it since new. I did have to replace one ignition coil on #5. It's very reliable and smooth. Starts right away and runs great all the way up to 5200 where it just has no more. The guy I bought it from was way into his 70s and had a mercury tech friend that maintained it for him. I want sure if the tech did a reflash od something to lower the rev limiter so has not to allow the man to kill himself in it. I think the boat should run 73-75 mph maybe even faster. It's a pretty sleek hill. I will check the reeds though, but wouldnt it run rough constantly?

  20. #60
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    As others have said. If that's all the fuel pressure you have you need to stop running it and figure that out right now.

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