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Thread: Mariner 175

  1. #31
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    You should be able to get every part you need from this site. Lots of helpful people here. Find a powerhead and we will help you from there.

  2. #32
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    I really appreciate the information, would I just order a powerhead like a ME-P6-34-N from a Mercury dealer or would I be better getting one more hand built by a reputable shop?

  3. #33
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    There's a few 4 sale here ,and u could take it (if wanted) to a shop and have some porting and boring done, be cheaper way out imo, or buy one ready drop on and rebuild later

  4. #34
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    Builder on here. You can probably get a rotating assembly for around $2500. Built right with good pistons. Start a post in engines wanted

  5. #35
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    awesome, thank you!

  6. #36
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    Bullet is correct that an ff and an ee are both 200 blocks. The ff has Promax porting but it is 200 Promax porting. Many seem to think they can get any ff block and have the 225 Promax with a few modifications. The 225 block is a nn and there are differences. Post a picture of your powerhead. Sometimes pics are worth a thousand words.

    Rock
    Team Junk

    No sparkling wiggles in here, only dump truck grinches.

    "Screamin Heathen"

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by rock View Post
    Bullet is correct that an ff and an ee are both 200 blocks. The ff has Promax porting but it is 200 Promax porting. Many seem to think they can get any ff block and have the 225 Promax with a few modifications. The 225 block is a nn and there are differences. Post a picture of your powerhead. Sometimes pics are worth a thousand words.

    Rock
    Not to hijack this thread but what are the differences between the FF block and the NN block? I'm looking at a 200 pm right now but don't want to pull the trigger until I know all the details.
    You are correct when saying that a lot just assume (myself included) that they can put a 7 petal front,change the ECU, & put tighter heads on the 200 pm & now it's a 225 pm. Some say same porting between the FF block 200 efi's & the Promax & some say they differ ever so slightly. Some say that when ordering new sleeves the FF sleeve part# is the same as for the PM. So much conflicting info out there that I'm starting to get confused.
    Last edited by A-train-97; 08-10-2018 at 12:55 PM.
    X-Stream Vegas

  8. #38
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    Exhaust porting is different. I don't know why there is so much hype on trying to make a 225 promax anyway. Don't get me wrong, they are a very good motor. It depends on what you want out of your motor. If you are just worried about top speed on a lighter hull. go with the PM. I prefer better hole shot and mid range, which is what you get out of a 4 or 5 petal fishing 200 2.5 with a few mods. JMO

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by bbezok View Post
    i have an 1989 Mariner 175 on my Pulse 185, I believe it's a 2.4 liter. The motor is like a time capsule as far as appearance, it shines and doesn't have a mark or any fading on it at all.
    My question is without breaking the bank for a new motor, or trying to find a clean 200 or 225 to swap the motor out, could someone like Jay Smith build or modify my existing powerhead
    to maybe see 225+hp out of my 175 or is it not worth going there? Reading through countless discussions, it appears i can put a 2.5L head on it with a few modifications but where i have carbs and not fuel injection, would i need to find 200/225 carbs and other accessories to actually get the advertised HP out of the new 2.5L powerhead? Thanks in advance for any input.
    For what its worth, your 1989 Mariner 175, is about 200 crankshaft horsepower as it came from the factory...

  10. #40
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    Really?.....so with the cut heads and better reeds it probably is at 200 already but about at it's max.

  11. #41
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    200 at crank. 175-180 at prop. 200 2.5 bone stock is over 200 at prop

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by bullet123 View Post
    200 at crank. 175-180 at prop. 200 2.5 bone stock is over 200 at prop
    just stumbled on a 1998 200XRI, guy states it's a good parts motor. something like this worth looking into?

  13. #43
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    If you know what you are looking for and price is right. No holes in block and crank is good you would have a good start for a build. I just bought one 2 months ago for $200 with no lower unit.

  14. #44
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    thanks for the info, not sure if it's complete and what's wrong but might be worth checking out or keeping my eyes open as our season winds down for a good donor.

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    Problem with the xri is finding a working ecu. More than likely it is bad. Very hard to find a good working ecu. That’s another reason I use carbs. You can jet a carb much cheaper and easier than remapping an ecu. You can throw carbs on an xri, just change intake and add some bleedlines.

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