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Thread: Mariner 175
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08-10-2018, 07:58 AM #165000 RPM
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okay that helps....I've looked at new or rebuilt powerheads but they come bare so I'd need a donor engine to get all the bolt on stuff (fuel, electronics, flywheel, etc) if I went to EFI, or if the parts off my 2.4 175 would bolt on but would that be restricting any gains from going from 2.4 to 2.5L?
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08-10-2018, 08:01 AM #17
"FF" blocks are more desirable if you are gonna do some porting mods to the block IMO. If you ran a bone stock "EE" against a bone stock "FF", not gonna notice much of a difference if any at all. Slap a 2.5 200 on there with some cut heads, good tuner and a good set of wh 22's or wh 46's carbs. Let'er eat!
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08-10-2018, 08:02 AM #18
Does your motor have a water cooled regulator or rectifier?
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08-10-2018, 08:07 AM #19
I thought I seen the ee block was a 175
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08-10-2018, 08:07 AM #205000 RPM
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No idea, how would I identify that?
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08-10-2018, 08:07 AM #21
"cc" 175
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08-10-2018, 08:11 AM #22
Water cooled regulator would be behind coils. All of your electrics will swap unless you have a water cooled regulator. no big deal though, you can just run a rectifier instead. Very cheap. give me serial number and I can look it up
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08-10-2018, 08:13 AM #235000 RPM
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0c218563
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08-10-2018, 08:20 AM #24
Water cooled, 40 amp. All of your electrics will swap, but the regulator. You will have to get two new smaller regulators for the 2.5. I figured your motor was a 16 amp, but is 40.
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08-10-2018, 09:07 AM #25
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08-10-2018, 09:16 AM #26
Yes, porting is close. All im saying is a stock "EE" will run ride beside an "FF". If you are planning on doing port and chest work, "FF" is better starting point.
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08-10-2018, 09:18 AM #275000 RPM
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08-10-2018, 09:25 AM #28
Do you have a clamshell cowl? splits down the middle when you take it off?
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08-10-2018, 09:27 AM #295000 RPM
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no, it has three latches...one in the front center and one at each rear corner.
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08-10-2018, 09:34 AM #30
It should work fine. I thought I read on here you had a clamshell.
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