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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlwjkw View Post
    does your poppet have two or four mounting bolts?..
    My poppet hs four mounting bolts.

    The cover goes over two round openings.

    The larger opening has lots of parts that I consider the poppet value.

    The smaller opening has nothing in it.

    Is that correct, or am I missing parts that should go in the smaller opening?

  2. #17
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    25lbs pressure ,,, water is moving thru the block to quick to pull heat out ,, I dont have the answer to your poppit question, someone will chime n on that hopefully. I have a few 20in tubes but if it was the tube,wouldn't have any pressure,Imo

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  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by pjbrownva View Post
    My poppet hs four mounting bolts.

    The cover goes over two round openings.

    The larger opening has lots of parts that I consider the poppet value.

    The smaller opening has nothing in it.

    Is that correct, or am I missing parts that should go in the smaller opening?
    yes, that is correct...

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  6. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Merclover View Post
    25lbs pressure ,,, water is moving thru the block to quick to pull heat out ,, I dont have the answer to your poppit question, someone will chime n on that hopefully. I have a few 20in tubes but if it was the tube,wouldn't have any pressure,Imo
    I'm not sure what to do about the pressure either, but I would like to replace the 20in tube, just to be safe. PM sent.

    Quote Originally Posted by tlwjkw View Post
    yes, that is correct...
    Thanks for the info, tlwjkw.

  7. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlwjkw View Post
    i'm talkin' 'bout tha "whole power head" to get at tha 2 piece adapter plates/gaskets..

    when ya open up tha water pump jus ta replace tha impeller you disturb seated, old gaskets (all of 'em) sooo.. you also can't tell by justa look at tha other parts it they are still in spec or not.. ie: housing, base plate, face plate etc..
    once and done!
    ... justa gauge, will in some cases, not tell tha whole story..

    one way ta flush some of tha crud out but not always successful is pull tha gearcase and clamp water hose to tha copper tube.. remove t-stats and turn hose water wide open.. do it with poppet in and again with it removed...…
    OK. New copper water tube from h20 pump to head is in the works....

    I'll replace that and the whole water pump, and clamp a hose to the tube to flush the engine a few different ways as previously described.


    STATUS: assuming it still overheats, next I plan to pull the head as tlwjkw suggested. When I tried last week, it was stuck and wouldn't budge.

    I've since ordered a 2000 lb come-along and plan to use a lifting eye, a sturdy overhead anchor point and the come-along to apply pressure until the head finally comes free. I think I'll call this the gentle brute force approach. :-)

    QUESTION: Does this approach tend to work? Is there any reason why I wouldn't want to go this route?
    The idea of heat and penetrating oil, and an air chisel (which I don't have, nor do I have an air compressor), sounds absolutely horrid.

    I'm hoping that there is a a better way, such as the come-along with some patience. Anyone have any experience or advice?

    -Phil

  8. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by pjbrownva View Post
    OK. New copper water tube from h20 pump to head is in the works....

    I've since ordered a 2000 lb come-along and plan to use a lifting eye, a sturdy overhead anchor point and the come-along to apply pressure until the head finally comes free. I think I'll call this the gentle brute force approach. :-)

    -Phil
    Update: Pulled the power head, cleaned up everything in the midsection, removed old gaskets and cleaned gasket surfaces
    with a brass wire wheel mounted in a drill.

    New water pump installed, and will install new copper water tube when it arrives,
    then I need to re-assemble everything and test.

    Stay tuned...

  9. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by pjbrownva View Post
    Here's the latest.

    So that's the update for now.
    It works!!!

    After more trouble shooting, I replaced all of the parts for the poppet valve, and I also double - checked the thermostats,
    and discovered that I had incorrectly installed the rubber gaskets for them.

    For others that may also may not know, when the thermostat is properly installed, the round rubber gasket is installed so that the the outside metal rim of the t-stat sits inside a small channel formed by a groove with a small lip at the top of the gasket.

    When properly installed, it looks like this:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	mercury_v6_tsat.png 
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    (Image courtesy of a vendor found via google search.
    I've never used 'em, so I can't comment on the vendor).

    So now it runs well, and more importantly, it cools properly at all speeds. Replacing the poppet value internals, and correclyt installing the thermostats fixed the excessive water pressure.

    Since I've overhauled most of the engine, I'm hoping to have a good, reliable fishing motor to use.

    I did strip a few bolts during my work, probably because of a combination of over-tightening, and the age of the motor (it's 30 yrs old).

    I'm gonna search about repairs for stripped bolts, but if anyone has a suggestion that is fast and works well, feel free to post.

    I'm not interested in the very best solution... I just want something fast that works.

    Sincerely,

    -Philip
    Last edited by pjbrownva; 09-04-2018 at 02:10 PM. Reason: Removed duplicates of photo. Updated description of proper t-stat installation.

  10. #23
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    Helicoil

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  12. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Merc 2.5 View Post
    Helicoil
    Update. (Still a work in progress).

    I bought Helicoil kits. I like them. I know there are better solutions, but this seems to work for me.

    I've pulled the head a few times, as I've learned what gaskets go where (and made mistakes), and learned that a torn gasket causes a water leak.

    I stopped when the weather turned cold, and am about to restart in couple of weeks when it (should) start to warm of here in Northern Virginia.

    I stripped bolts for the poppet valve, and went to deep when I bored-out the hole, drilling into the cooling passage of the block.
    I used jbweld to make a permanent plug, after it cured, put TWO helicoils into the hole to hold the bolts.

    I ended up buying a kit to rebuild the poppet valve, and will install it this spring. I also bought some (expensive) type of liquid that is a gasket prep. It's supposed to help hold gaskets in place. I think I needed this, because I had trouble getting the gasket for the poppet valve to stay in place as I put everything together. Based on the description, it sounds like the gasket prep liquid is designed to keep the gasket in place.

    A few of the bolts on the exhaust plate and the for the plate over the heads stripped. I have plenty of helicoils in the 2 different correct sizes, and the proper sized cobalt tip drill bits.

    So. Hopefully for THE LAST time. I plan to pull the power head. Replace all of the gaskets correctly.

    (For example, I was confused by the diagrams that showed that engines with the oyster bucket cowl have a metal plate that uses an identical gasket above and below that plate. I don't have that cowl, so I use only ONE of those gaskets, and then a different style gasket as well).

    I also need to pull the power head covers and exhaust gasket, drill and repair the stripped holes, and then replace everything, using the correct lock-tite on the bolts.

    I used a torque wrench, and followed the book, tightening in three stages, but this time I will tighten a little less than the spec calls for, to avoid stripping threads. Plus, since I'm reusing the bolts, they are already stretched -- so it makes sense that I don't tighten quite as much. I don't remember off the top of my head the torque settings, but they are in the book, and few other posts that I printed out.

    Anyway. That's the update. I'm optimistic about getting this engine running like a top, and enjoying the spring fishing season!

    Cheers!
    -Philip

  13. #25
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    Sound like little mota givin u bit of a fit ,but glad u hanging with it,,,was it a salty mota?

  14. #26
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    25 psi is from a restriction and lack of flow. If you haven't pulled the exhaust divider and cleaned it out that should be checked. Buy yourself an infared temp gun from somewhere to check operating temps.

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  16. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Merc 2.5 View Post
    Sound like little mota givin u bit of a fit ,but glad u hanging with it,,,was it a salty mota?
    Yeah... I'm learning by doing, and re-doing, and re-re-doing!!!! But I'm *almost* there.
    It's not salty. It was a barn find, but clearly fresh water. It sat for almost a decade, and had wasps nests, and colonies of dead bugs everywhere! Plus, I was told that it had "bad electrics" when I got it. Anyway, I'm *almost* done, and I believe that mechanically it's good, so hopefully I'll have good reliability and longevity when I finally get runnin' right

    Quote Originally Posted by Capt.Insane-o View Post
    25 psi is from a restriction and lack of flow. If you haven't pulled the exhaust divider and cleaned it out that should be checked. Buy yourself an infared temp gun from somewhere to check operating temps.
    Yes. I'm not sure exactly what fixed it, but once I cleaned everything, flushed all of the internal passages, replaced the full h20 pump, including the housing, put i new tube from the water pump to the power head, replaced the seals for it and then rebuilt the poppet and put in new tstats, once I finally installed the tstat gaskets properly, then the pressure went down to normal and the overheating stopped!

    Thanks for the advice. I've got an infrared temp gun, so once everything's running correctly, I guess I can use it to establish a baseline temp range for each cylinder.

    When it was overheating, I tried using it to see if I could find a "hot spot" and maybe narrow down the problem, but it wasn't helpful in practice!
    Last edited by pjbrownva; 03-08-2019 at 02:02 PM.

  17. #28
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    U prob wont get a gud read for ea cyl but u can for which bank runnin hot , star or port,, I believe is what he sayin , other words u can find out which side is hot and cold. Good luck

  18. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Capt.Insane-o View Post
    25 psi is from a restriction and lack of flow. If you haven't pulled the exhaust divider and cleaned it out that should be checked.
    Your advice just "clicked". Yes. I pulled the exhaust divider, and it was filthy. Lots of thick, caked up black soot. I cleaned it all out until I had nothing but shiny metal. While I was in there, I also replaced the round spaghetti gasket in the middle, and the bigger exhaust divider gasket. I also fixed the mis-installed t-stat rubber seals (although those are located in a different part of the engine), and after putting everything back together, the mota cooled properly!

    Now I get it!

    I guess it was the dirty exhaust divider that was causing the cooling problems, and I just didn't know it.

    Thanks for the info!

    I say I'm close, because I think the only work left is to replace the gaskets under the power head and by the exhaust plates, and then drill, tap and repair the stripped bolt holes using helicoils, at which point I hope to be 100%

    More updates later this spring!
    Last edited by pjbrownva; 03-09-2019 at 07:56 AM.

  19. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Merc 2.5 View Post
    U prob wont get a gud read for ea cyl but u can for which bank runnin hot , star or port,, I believe is what he sayin , other words u can find out which side is hot and cold. Good luck

    Thank you. That makes sense.

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