Ramdom or no fire

[michaelogden]

It's in a storage box with the all the trim tab,,jack plate pumps,,lines & elec wires etc,,,the box is the width of the boat with a deck hatch for access,,,wire size has been the same for years & none of that wiring goes to the engine,,only the starting circuit,,,the engine harness wiring runs from the center console area,,,the gang plug is disconnected so it's out of the circuit

[michaelogden]

No I agree the CDI's have had probs,,,I've got the plugs also

[H2OPERF]

Agree but disconnect kill wires right at pack plugs so you eliminate the engine harness too... I was just wondering where the battery was for wire length, I see allot of cranking problems when its in the console and someone spliced it... random firing screams low stator voltage to the pack..packs usually work or don't.. whats the current stator resistance..

[H2OPERF]

Careful cranking with kill wires disc at packs no way to shut it off if it starts except to choke it down and if water hose isn't on ur gonna be doin a waterpump..

[michaelogden]

Hey guys,,,back tracking all my steps I took a shot in the dark since the only fire was on #2 I replaced the pwr pack again with a new OEM pack,,,FIRED RIGHT UP,,,,,,,since there has been an ongoing problems with burnt stators,,voltage regulator pack etc I killed the engine for fear of burning something out again....Where do I measure the voltage output from??how much should it be?? That's where i'm @ now.

[flabum1017]

CDI has a trouble shooting book on their website that will give you all the values you need to test. You will need a DVA meter or DVA adapter to properly check the voltages. As said earlier in this thread, if you have put everything on the engine new, then there is a wiring or switch problem somewhere..... something as stupid as the shift cable being adjusted too tight in forward gear can cause the shift switch to bounce open and closed continually spiking the ignition. Moisture in the key switch or kill switch can do it too.... so ohm out everything in the system.... also, pull all the amphenol pins and sockets (one at a time so they don't get mixed up) and look for broken or almost broken wires at the connectors....

[nitro_rat]

http://www.cdielectronics.com/wp-con...g-Guide_RS.pdf

[michaelogden]

Sure appreciate the input,,,it;s been over a year now so no since getting in hurry now just to get back in the water,,,i'll be in touch with my findings

[michaelogden]

Hey Guys,,i'm back again with the same problem,,,,I finally replaced the pwr pack (again) back in August,,,fired er up & have screamed ever since,,no problems,,,,,last Wednesday put her in the water,,fired er up,,,ran a couple minutes,,I shut er off,,went inside to eat a sandwich,,,,,went back out after that & it has never fired again...So I checked & there was a weak fire on #3,,,no where else,,,,,walked away,,,,today a week later good fire on 1&2 only,,,WTF,,,,,remember,,,I replaced everything from the flywheel down @ least once..

[BOATMANBLUES]

Have you checked the magnets in the flywheel? very common for them to come loose...if they are not loose ,check and make sure someone hasn't already repaired it and maybe got a couple flipped upside down...a loose magnet or two ,or ones that are clocked wrong will cause your symptoms...if the motor fires right up it will generate enough juice to keep itself running...but if you check the fire at cranking speeds it will not be generating enough juice to completley charge the pak capacitors so it randomly fires one or two...notches on the corner of the magnets need to be facing down and evenly spaced..

[michaelogden]

Hey Bud,,Thanx for getting back so quick,,,YEP already had one reglued that a shop did for me,,,I pulled the flywheel last Wed when she quit just to make sure nothing moved & while I was there inspected the stator for any hotspots or anything funky,, but all looked good,,,I'm totally blown

[gfinch]

I have had wires that broke in the rubber plug connectors that go to the power packs. Wires can look great but are broken inside the insulation. Also those connections get loose (open up) getting plugged and unplugged. Plus the pin can get pushed back as it is being connected. A 20 strand wire can be broken down to only 1 strand. I pull hard on suspected wires just to find the insulation is the only thing connected. Pull each wire out one by one to check how limber the wire is. Limber spot in wire = broken wire. Stretching wire = only insulation.

The best test for poor conduction in a circuit is the Volt age Drop Test. This is one of your best tools the your tool box for electrical problems.

https://www.google.com/search?client...tage+drop+test

If necessary I load the circuit with a head lamp bulb.

[flabum1017]

I have had wires that broke in the rubber plug connectors that go to the power packs. Wires can look great but are broken inside the insulation. Also those connections get loose (open up) getting plugged and unplugged. Plus the pin can get pushed back as it is being connected. .

I have had several power packs come from CDI with poor wire crimp at the pins and sockets. You sometimes can actually see where they crimped onto the insulation and not the actual wire leaving the wire to randomly make contact with the pin/socket

[keefallan]

What about grounds? Are the connections good/clean? I have not had to chase a ghost like this before in outboard scene, but I have in the electrical scene elsewhere. Grounding can cause a mess of things. To me, it sounds like something is causing packs to fry.......like a grounded wire (not supposed to be) or a bad ground connection or no connection.