Help- can’t kill my looper

**Captain75** · 07-18-2018, 07:45 AM

This afternoon I did some link&sync work iot cure the stalling problem I have with my Looper. All of a sudden it refuses to stop when the key switch is turned of!? When the key is turned off it only kills the stbd bank, what has happened and how can I fix this? I did try to disconnect the shift interruptor iot cure the stalling, but hooked it back up. After that it won’t stop when the key is turned!?
Any ideas?
Ignition system is early twin powerpack.
//Anders

**H2OPERF** · 07-18-2018, 10:48 AM

Either one of the contacts in the shift interrupter connectors you unplugged got pushed back and is not making connection or the diode in R/H black/yellow stripe kill wire is broken/open.

**Captain75** · 07-18-2018, 03:36 PM

Originally Posted by H2OPERF

Either one of the contacts in the shift interrupter connectors you unplugged got pushed back and is not making connection or the diode in R/H black/yellow stripe kill wire is broken/open.

thanx!
checked all the black/yellow leads and connections, still refuses to die when key is turned off. Just shuts one bank down which is very noticeable. WTF!

Question from a non native english speaker: ”the diode” what is that?

**Forkin' Crazy** · 07-18-2018, 04:39 PM

Originally Posted by Captain75

thanx!
checked all the black/yellow leads and connections, still refuses to die when key is turned off. Just shuts one bank down which is very noticeable. WTF!

Question from a non native english speaker: ”the diode” what is that?

Pretty much and electronic check valve. Electricity will only flow through it one way.

**mrichartz** · 07-18-2018, 04:41 PM

Diode..a semiconductor device with two terminals, typically allowing the flow of current in one direction only.

Could also be the power pack..had one with a brand new power pack do it

**rochelle howell** · 07-18-2018, 06:05 PM

Same thing happened to me. 1986 110 crossflow. Dual powerpack setup. One bank wouldn't shut down with key switch turned off. Had internal break in black and yellow wire from one bank to the other.Wire on mine ran along base of power head in rear. Spliced in a length of wire and all was good. All my stuff is old junk! Good luck!

**Captain75** · 07-19-2018, 03:48 PM

Originally Posted by rochelle howell

Same thing happened to me. 1986 110 crossflow. Dual powerpack setup. One bank wouldn't shut down with key switch turned off. Had internal break in black and yellow wire from one bank to the other.Wire on mine ran along base of power head in rear. Spliced in a length of wire and all was good. All my stuff is old junk! Good luck!

Looked up a CDI manual i had at home. One of their troubleshooting checkpoints is to try and start with the black/yellow leads to the pp’s disconnected. If the motor starts then the problem could be either shift swich or remote!? Do stock OMC remote have two kill wires, one to each pp? Isn’t that the only way the remote could be the problem child?

**racer** · 07-19-2018, 04:34 PM

Easy to check you need a volt/ohm meter. Set it to ohm's and place the black lead to a good ground, with key on both kill wires should be open key off should have continuity to ground if both do and it will not shut off either a bad connection or pack. Continuity on only one need to trace back the one not working and repair.

**rochelle howell** · 07-20-2018, 10:35 PM

From what I remember, each pack had it's own black and yellow wire going to it. I believe I checked at power pack plug connections, and a couple points in between, by probing with point of 12 volt tester.
My problem was a short in the harness from port to starboard side. Harness ran along base of powerhead at rear of engine.
I split the harness open and added wire in between points of no continuity. When I tested I used a cheap 12 volt tester with a red and green light. Hooked alligator clip to positive on battery, when ground is present - green light illuminates. I guess I was pretty lucky, didn't have to buy new parts!