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  1. #16
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    Yes, that’s it. It is already there but some “throw out the baby with the bathwater” not knowing any better. I see you have the blue “digital” CDI switch boxes. These have been known to cause problems in the past. Are your stator and trigger blue as well? Sometimes these systems will not function properly with certain flywheels, such as if you have a loose magnet or a hairline crack in one. I steer clear of those because of issues I’ve read about others having with them. Do you have CDI’s troubleshooting manual and a good Merc manual?
    Josh Peterson

  2. #17
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    I only have a selloc repair manual, it's not specific to my motor/year and further complicating the manual/serial # year issue, the powerhead was replaced with a new powerhead in 1999 so my serial # isn't the right one for the PH, anyways those blue boxes are new also in 2016 starter as well(previous owner). stator and trigger color un known, would I see blue without removing the flywheel?

  3. #18
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    You should be able to see with a peek up under there...
    Josh Peterson

  4. #19
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    CDI Troubleshooting Manual:
    http://www.cdielectronics.com/wp-con...g-Guide_RS.pdf
    Merc Technicians Guide:
    http://www.motooff.ru/assets/files/d...dvigateley.pdf
    I don’t have a link for a manual for 1988. This one should help with most stuff:
    http://www.hedges-uk.com/boat/Merc/o...%20-%20225.pdf
    Josh Peterson

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  6. #20
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    Ok nitro_rat I'll check that when I get back from the bank. I was hoping the issue with the jumper wire would solve this! would be an easy fix, It was running fine before I don't get it. I even tried the 24p trophy+ as my reference prop, brand new never been touched, b4 I'd get 6400- 6600 rpm's with it at 69-71mph, now 4500-5000rpms max and 54mph was max recorded on gps. (1' chop though) shouldn't matter, hasn't in the past. IDK I guess I need to check timing on the water at wot, with a helper of course.

    Sweet, thanks for the links!!
    Thanks again nitro_rat and everyone else for the info, much appreciated!
    Last edited by RiverJunkie702; 06-16-2018 at 02:37 PM.

  7. #21
    Join Date
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    Gothenburg, Sweden
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    PhastPhil, you may want to change your screen name.

    We used to have a Fast Phil here. He died in a boating accident:

    https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Fatal-Accident
    Markus' Performance Boating Links:
    www.toastedmarshmallow.com/performance

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  9. #22
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    can I change my user name or do I have to make a new account/register again? I didn't know about the original Phil, Out of respect I probably should change it even though spelling is different it's still the same name.

    As for the boat issues, still tinkering, wanted to take it out today and check timing on the water but its still real windy. 2' chop isn't a problem but I don't want someone else driving my boat in it while I check timing and don't want someone else checking timing while I drive, mainly because my usual people I take out are my "roommates" 3 chickes that don't know the first thing about boats or driving in those conditions.

    BTW nitro_rat I don't see any blue peeking back at me around trigger or stator. I have another 200 with black switch boxes if I ever need to swap them.

  10. #23
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    Timing needs be checked n drive way at cranking speed ,with all plugs out and grounded ,, safest and easiest way to check it

  11. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Merclover View Post
    Timing needs be checked n drive way at cranking speed ,with all plugs out and grounded ,, safest and easiest way to check it
    Yup that's the way I did it cranking speed in driveway, several times. Used a dial indicator on #1 cyl. to make sure the pointer was adjusted correctly. 1/4 turn past .462 on the flywheel and it was dead on. I just did it again because I had to adjust idle stop, and pickup timing so adjusted max advance again, it was a little bit shy of 24*. My flywheel is only numbered to 24*( are they all like that?) it's kinda difficult to get it exactly 25* when it doesn't go up to 25. I put a dab of fluorescent yellow paint at the spot on flywheel where 25 would be. Just waiting for the 40 mph wind to die down a bit so I can go test.

  12. #25
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    Not real sure without lookin but needs be down about 22 or 23 max unless u have indexed flywheel. U could have 4 or 5 cyl on 25 and 1 or 2 mite be at 27, stay safe at 22 or 23

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  14. #26
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    I would not think that timing would lose you 1,000 rpm's, not a couple degrees anyway. Have you pulled plugs to see what they look like?

  15. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhastPhil View Post
    BTW nitro_rat I don't see any blue peeking back at me around trigger or stator. I have another 200 with black switch boxes if I ever need to swap them.
    The blue switch boxes are designed to work as a “system” with the corresponding trigger and stator. I would swap them with the black ones. They’ve been known to cause problems.
    Josh Peterson

  16. #28
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    can I change my user name or do I have to make a new account/register again? I didn't know about the original Phil, Out of respect I probably should change it even though spelling is different it's still the same name.

    Phil, You sound like a stand up guy and class act. No many people would do that.

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  18. #29
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    Yes as Da Bull said. Good for you as i thought the same when I saw your screen name as markus said. And kutos for you for even thinking to change it as Phil was a highly respected person on hear and seems you are also. If you have any trouble changing it just PM Greg Terizani on hear he will help you with that without changing anything else he is the owner/Admin extraordinaire of Scream and fly and will change it for you if you cant figure it out. Another great guy!

    You get your rpm issues sorted. Sounds like your in good hands and will get it sorted sooner or later. Way above my pay grade electronics. haha But thats whats so great about S&F lots of guys know this stuff inside and out!!

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  20. #30
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    Be careful running at 25 degrees by only checking on cylinder 1. 25 degrees is for when your trying to squeeze as much as you can, running super unleaded fuel. I would set it at 22-23, if your gonna run 25 you need to index 25 degrees btdc on all cylinders and check on all cylinders and to highest one (usually not cylinder 1). Put your dial indicator in cylinder one, zero it at highest point of travel. Turn motor counterclockwise to 5 degrees btdc, note reading on indicator. Turn clockwise to 5 degrees atdc and note reading in indicator. Should be the same reading on indicator, if not adjust pointer accordingly to get perfect TDC. Knock your linkage off at carbs so when you move timing arm it won’t pick up carbs. Start mota, check timing on cylinder one with arm sitting against wot stop, rpm will go up to around 2000 rpm, that’s ok. Set it around 22-23 degrees btdc. This way you know what’s happening dynamically. You would have to be way out in left field to loose 1000 rpm from timing. If your boat will allow a wot shut down, run wide open and shut off key. Pull all spark plugs and note condition/ color of them and let us know. If ya got a coil or something breaking down and not firing on a cylinder one will be wet, if one is running out of fuel it’ll be dry and white; etc.

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