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  1. #1
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    Replacing Reeds on a Mercury 2.5L

    Hey all. I have my carbs off for another issue, so I was wondering what your thoughts were on replacing my reeds with some carbon fiber or plastic ones while she’s apart. I like the idea of not eating a steel one down the road on my 23 year old motor. Also, I hear it smooths your idle and acceleration, which has been small problem area for me.

  2. #2
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    Also considering replacing them with new OEM reeds since some research shows that the gainer reeds appear to be a wear item. If these originals lasted this long, that’s the last I’d have to do it.

  3. #3
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    Look up Chris Carson Marine Services here on S&F.

    He makes and sells the best ones, his own composite design.

    Best easy inexpensive "modification" you can do.. jmo
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

  4. #4
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    Hey, it’s been awhile! I didn’t have much boat to talk about over the winter since I didn’t want to pull all of the antifreeze and dewinterize just to do a day of fishing. Thanks. I did see that name mentioned a bit. So, are they weaker and do they require replacement every couple years like the old OMC ones I read about, or are they long lasting?

  5. #5
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    Ordered the CCMS reeds from eBay. They sound like the way to go. Guess who’s pulling their reed block and is lapping some cages today. That’s right, this guy. I have a fuel pump to inspect too.
    Last edited by Capnmoench; 06-09-2018 at 02:15 PM.

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  7. #6
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    Smart move! I'm a mercury dealer and Ive switched over to putting chris's reeds in everything that needs them. Great guy you deal with, good support, and a GREAT product!

    He also does awesome at cutting shafts down!
    Last edited by RSWORDS; 06-09-2018 at 01:08 PM.

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  9. #7
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    I got the block and one set of reeds off. They look pretty new to me. Maybe the shop replaced them with the rebuild. I have no proof though. The # 3 carb lower set are gapped pretty good. I’m out of tolerance or at tolerance on 3 of them. .022” is the worst one. Lapping should be fairly quick. What are these dang screws in these? They look like a torx 15, but they aren’t. I find that a properly sized armorers screwdriver flat blade tip works, but it’s not perfect. Maybe I’ll hunt some more through my master bit set.
    Last edited by Capnmoench; 06-09-2018 at 02:51 PM.

  10. #8
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    I got them. It is a T15, but they’re a bit on the large side. My first bit was worn. I’d suggest anyone else grind the end of the tip off of a standard 15 torx to get a tighter fit.

  11. #9
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    Click image for larger version. 

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  12. #10
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    Yes, Mercury gives a tolerance spec for a gap.

    Might be just me, but I never put reeds back on that don't lay flat, whether it be the cage is not true, or a warped reed or what ever. I don't flip em over either .

    Glad you survived winter. You get em real bad up where you live.
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

  13. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by W2F a V-King View Post
    Yes, Mercury gives a tolerance spec for a gap.

    Might be just me, but I never put reeds back on that don't lay flat, whether it be the cage is not true, or a warped reed or what ever. I don't flip em over either .

    Glad you survived winter. You get em real bad up where you live.

    Ha! Not too bad. Not like when I lived in Montana. The only thing here is being surprised by a freeze. Last thing I want is blown o-rings, cracking, blown hoses because I didn’t think it was going to freeze and it did. Yeah, the spec is .020. I have 3 that the .020” feeler gauge will go into without moving it. A couple others that don’t lay flat as well. You are all correct. Mr. Carson is very responsive. I’m working with him to get these expedited at the moment. I have control arms to replace on my car and mechanic projects are going to overlap if I don’t get a rush put on it. I might get mixed up and end up with BMW bolts in my Mercury.

  14. #12
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    Cages all lapped up. Anyone ever polish the inside edges of the ports to clean them up a bit? I don’t think it’s necessary, but I’m gonna get bored waiting for parts now
    Click image for larger version. 

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  15. #13
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    Your cages are what we call teardrop...rounded tips, tapered sides and straight at the base of the window. The reeds that are coming to you are straight sided, so if you really have time on your hands you can file sides straight and parallel, taking away the taper. The results will be a rectangle, with a rounded tip. Basically, you’re removing the taper so that the windows are parallel. You’ll understand when you see the reeds.This cage modification is good for about 15% more flow, with absolutely no downside, except for the time it takes to do it, Chris

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  17. #14
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    A little port and polish it sounds like?!

  18. #15
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    I might not though, I’m already running 5800 RPM with the new prop. 200 over redline, but I was loaded really light. Full load should put me right where I need to be at 5600. If I gain performance, I’m probably going to be pushing towards another inch of prop pitch and I already told Ken at Propgods I’m keeping this one.

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