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  1. #46
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    I'm starting to put together a parts list. Does everything on the crank get replaced or can I reuse anything?

  2. #47
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    Usually everything replaced, depends on situation of motor but pressed on crank breaking (bottom I believe )? Some mite leave it , they say they don't usually fail that often ,then again depends on motor, hours,what happen originally, better safe than sorry tho, a lot of guy probably have a press n their shop,but I don't so I would weigh my options

  3. #48
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    The bottom bearing is pressed on the crank. It is commonly reused. A lot of guys reuse the other crank bearings too if they look good. Not recommended in the manual to do so. Just depends on what you’re trying to do.
    Josh Peterson

  4. #49
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    I see there are plastic rod bearings? Are those ok? I'm thinking sticking with new metal.

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  6. #50
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    It’s a good upgrade!
    Josh Peterson

  7. #51
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    Here is a pic of the top of the crank where the flywheel and the upper bearing and seals would be. Are these marks a concern? Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #52
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    Still don't have my block back. Looking ahead, If I leave the heads off and install the flywheel, can I just turn the flywheel until #1 is at tdc, and then adjust the pointer on the flywheel for the timing procedure?

  9. #53
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    I've never heard of doing it that way. I guess it would work, but I recommend a dial indicator through plug hole. If you are going to time it higher than 23 degrees, index every hole and set timing with highest one.

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  11. #54
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    I actually prefer doing it with the heads off. I made me a piston stop by using a metal bar that goes diagonally across the cylinder and bolts down on deck using the head bolt holes. Drill you a hole in plate so that it is dead over the center of the piston. Weld a nut on top side over the hole you drilled, now you can insert a bolt in nut and adjust it to stop piston anywhere you want. Turn the motor clockwise until piston hits the stop you made and note reading on pointer (let’s say it’s 5 degrees btdc) now turn motor counterclockwise until piston hits stop( let’s say it’s 6 degrees atdc). You would need to move the pointer 1/2 degree towards btdc so that it would be at 5.5 degrees atdc. Repeat the process until the pointer falls in exact same point in both directions (atdc and btdc). This process will give you dead nuts perfect TDC.

  12. #55
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Forgot I had a pic of it in my engine building album

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  14. #56
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    This procedure is just used to make sure your pointer is perfectly adjusted to TDC. Now you can use a dial indicator either set up to center of piston (or through plug hole later) in each cylinder to mark flywheel at 25 degrees btdc which will be 0.150 in hole btdc. Do this so you can check your wot timing on all cylinders (25 is the most you safely want to run)

  15. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by fishingguy76 View Post
    Still don't have my block back. Looking ahead, If I leave the heads off and install the flywheel, can I just turn the flywheel until #1 is at tdc, and then adjust the pointer on the flywheel for the timing procedure?
    Sounds OK but I would use a dial indicator for accurate results
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  16. #58
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    Let me clarify my statement of marking 25 degrees on flywheel. It’s 0.150 from the highest point of piston travel not necessarily in the hole

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  18. #59
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    Using the piston stop method to find true TDC is the most accurate way to find TDC. It eliminates bearing clearances and the small amount of rotation of no piston movement while the rod rocks from one side to the other. This is the method we use when setting up a degree wheel when porting a motor or degreeing a camshaft.

  19. #60
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    I agree with you (Forbes) on you method and what you use it for, but I assumed he was just gonna take head off and watch for tdc.

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