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  1. #181
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    got my new toy for Father's Day



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  3. #182
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    building hull supports to complete the core removal


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  5. #183
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    JUst curious, but how do you go about cutting the wood to the shape of the bottom? lots of measuring? or can you trace the transom?

  6. #184
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    first you create a pattern, then use the pattern to trace the shape onto heavier wood

    a pattern is a lightweight model of the shape you're trying to copy, made out of light materials like cardboard, and a hot glue gun

    the cardboard pieces or thin wood strips are cut small so as to follow the shape of the object you're trying to copy, and applying glue to "lock in" the shape you're trying to copy

    here's a video of how they copied the shape of the interior of the cabin with a v-shape hull for the bulkhead, again using hot glue gun and small wood strips

    you can fast forward to 6:50












    .

  7. #185
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    the youtube channel "SailBros" is actually one of my favorite channels

    they renovated this sailboat, pretty cool

    scroll down to the bottom (oldest video) and watch the video listings from the bottom up


    list of videos ==> https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0Y...pY2X2aA/videos







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  8. #186
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    I got you oh, that's how I figured it was done and that's how I've done most of my templates I was just curious if there was another way with all the odd curves and shapes.

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  10. #187
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    Use a joggle stick. Much quicker.

  11. #188
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    back on it because the temps are a lot cooler, during the day, the highs are upper 70*F

    very comfortable to work now


    I added different thickness of rug to the hull support to prevent scratching of the bottom and to create a tighter fit

    When I walked on hull it doesn't flex anymore because the templates are supporting not only the bottom but also the sides


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  13. #189
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    Good to see you back at it! These resto threads are the most fun to watch. Go Noli!!!
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  15. #190
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    if you do the hull supports after you've started the recore job, you can adjust each blade (of plywood) by using nuts and bolts for making the hull-support-plywood to rise to the hull then a few more turns to make the support nice and snug against the hull bottom


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    I'm using different thickness home carpeting to prevent scratching the hull


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  17. #191
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    I like your effort and progress so far! but I think those frames are a little over kill, I just put my Virage on 4 blocks (which is shaped similarly) and I didn’t notice any flexing while replacing the core because the intricate design of the bottom makes it strong by itself... more than one way to skin a cat...try not to deform the bottom with too much upward pressure, a lot of work restoring a boat so don’t waste too much energy on those frames!...here is my Virage:

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  19. #192
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    Aaron,


    you're 100% correct, these hulls have so many contours that they're already are well supported on their own


    I also use a 2' x 2' plywood with cushions to distribute my weight when inside the hull and grinding away the bad core







    .
    Last edited by noli; 09-20-2019 at 10:00 AM.

  20. #193
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    The hull opening better not change during the build or the cap will not fit right. If the hull widens during the build (as a result of incorrect cradle) when the cap is put back, the cap might be too small

    to prevent the hull from widening during the re-core, I constantly measure the hull-opening and also make sure the cradle's side supports are snug against the sides


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  22. #194
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    now that the cradle is done (for now)

    I'm back inside the hull and found more wet core to do....yuuuk, more work!




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  24. #195
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    The area marked in yellow triangle i believe is the core job that is waiting for me to do




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