User Tag List

Page 2 of 7 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 99
  1. #16
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Auburn NY
    Posts
    40
    Thanks (Given)
    6
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    tlwjkw, no history on the boat and motor, as stated but actual use as stated... hopefully that is clear.

    Appreciate the help, the would this not be true..........

    So the two restricting washers that were used to replace both T stats would not cause the heating problem due to the small amount of water flow, this is what I am confused about? Should I not test with no T stats and see it runs cool, then put T stats in.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    TX......somewhere?
    Posts
    5,078
    Thanks (Given)
    3
    Thanks (Received)
    139
    Likes (Given)
    56
    Likes (Received)
    400
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    ONE MORE TIME.. washers and/or stats will not reflect a increase/decrease water pressure, period... operational poppet will show pressure change slighty when it opens but you will need ta be lookin at tha gauge tha instant it happens ta notice...

    high pressure is caused by a restriction somewhere in tha flow path (entry. middle or exit).. a bad pump can show high pressure CAUSED BY THA RESTRICTION.... you have no idea about tha pump age and/or condition..

    pump, stats, poppet are jus a normal process for any jus acquired motor that has heat problem where no history is known by justa 'bout anyone that's been doin' this stuff for very long..… those are my suggestions but do as ya want.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    minocqua, wis
    Posts
    3,385
    Thanks (Given)
    3
    Thanks (Received)
    71
    Likes (Given)
    263
    Likes (Received)
    414
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Best to pull lower and back flush. Make sure all clear those little rubber pieces block water real good and put in new impeller.

  4. Likes pjbrownva liked this post
  5. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Missouri
    Posts
    367
    Thanks (Given)
    11
    Thanks (Received)
    18
    Likes (Given)
    80
    Likes (Received)
    43
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Here's a schematic of cooling flow for a 2.4 - 2.5...good luck...

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	waterflow_89newer_2.4_2.5_blizzard.jpg 
Views:	46 
Size:	86.8 KB 
ID:	408730

  6. #20
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Auburn NY
    Posts
    40
    Thanks (Given)
    6
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Ok, will drop the lower unit. Not sure this will change opinions but I am gettting a decent stream of water from the tell tale hole.

    Thnaks will keep folks posted.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Pekin, IL
    Posts
    7,946
    Thanks (Given)
    220
    Thanks (Received)
    291
    Likes (Given)
    1197
    Likes (Received)
    1671
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The impeller is something that should be observed and probably changed regardless of amount of pressure. It is a part that should be changed every couple years. The retricters are very common and designed to let water flow but keep it in block long enough to absorb heat. Thermostats may well serve you better. Do not run it without stats. Motors need some heat and removing stats allows water to flow way to fast and not rmove heat from sysytem. Once you get stats and inspect impeller you will know those areas are no longer suspect. It's a process of elimination. Was this motor used in saltwater?

    Rock
    Team Junk

    No sparkling wiggles in here, only dump truck grinches.

    "Screamin Heathen"

  8. #22
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Auburn NY
    Posts
    40
    Thanks (Given)
    6
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Came from an auction in VA, but from what I see on the motor, the motor does not appear to have been in salt water. No suspect corrosion and the internal water passages I can see have no corrosion.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Auburn NY
    Posts
    40
    Thanks (Given)
    6
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Update... pulled the lower unit, the waterpump was in excellent shape and looked like it had be replaced lately. The one thing I did not notice is the small line that goes on the lower unit has been cut by the power trim. What is the line for? I thought speedo, but no pedo tube. Also the tube connecting the water pump to the water pipe was not extremely tight. I left it in and made sure it matted to the pipe.

    I might take for a short test run with the restricter washers out as the new T stats and poppet valve willl take a few days to get here.

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    pa
    Posts
    623
    Thanks (Given)
    13
    Thanks (Received)
    37
    Likes (Given)
    32
    Likes (Received)
    90
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Did you backflush when you had lower unit off?

  11. Likes pjbrownva liked this post
  12. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Pekin, IL
    Posts
    7,946
    Thanks (Given)
    220
    Thanks (Received)
    291
    Likes (Given)
    1197
    Likes (Received)
    1671
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    If that tube isn't tight you may need a cone washer. There is a small tapered washer that sits in the exit tube on the water pump housing. Without it the motor will definitley get hot but ususally it happens at all times and not just wot.

    Rock
    Team Junk

    No sparkling wiggles in here, only dump truck grinches.

    "Screamin Heathen"

  13. Likes pjbrownva liked this post
  14. #26
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Auburn NY
    Posts
    40
    Thanks (Given)
    6
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Mine did not have a cone washer and the Seloc Manual does not show it. Was late putting back together with wife and flashlight . System looked clean did not flush, will take apart again and flush. Just means getting better at the tricks of R/R of the lower unit... keep speedo tube out of the way, discharge pipe, shift and drive shafts all aligned.

  15. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    TX......somewhere?
    Posts
    5,078
    Thanks (Given)
    3
    Thanks (Received)
    139
    Likes (Given)
    56
    Likes (Received)
    400
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    tha "cone" washer is tha rubber one in tha top of tha pump housin' that rock is talkin' about.. tha copper tube "seats" inside it... without it your pissin' in tha wind.. tha plastic one is justa "guide" tube for tha copper.... trash tha seloc and get an oem.……….

  16. #28
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Pekin, IL
    Posts
    7,946
    Thanks (Given)
    220
    Thanks (Received)
    291
    Likes (Given)
    1197
    Likes (Received)
    1671
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The washer sits directly under the guide tube and can be difficult to see with a quick glance. Ditto on a good manual as they can be worth their weight in gold.

    Rock
    Team Junk

    No sparkling wiggles in here, only dump truck grinches.

    "Screamin Heathen"

  17. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    TX......somewhere?
    Posts
    5,078
    Thanks (Given)
    3
    Thanks (Received)
    139
    Likes (Given)
    56
    Likes (Received)
    400
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    not really a "washer".. more of a coned shaped grommet.....

  18. #30
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Missouri
    Posts
    367
    Thanks (Given)
    11
    Thanks (Received)
    18
    Likes (Given)
    80
    Likes (Received)
    43
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I would flush thru the poppet valve pressure return also .

Page 2 of 7 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. 1985 Mercury 150 Black Max overheating
    By jdewaard in forum Technical Discussion
    Replies: 79
    Last Post: 05-23-2015, 09:44 PM
  2. Replies: 2
    Last Post: 08-15-2014, 07:18 AM
  3. how to bleed oil on a 1986 mercury black max 200
    By nubby in forum Technical Discussion
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 06-24-2014, 09:56 AM
  4. mercury 200 black max overheating!!!! Please help
    By koshlakehydro in forum Technical Discussion
    Replies: 21
    Last Post: 05-30-2014, 09:36 AM
  5. 1986 Mercury Black Max carburetors, need help.
    By David@mpys in forum Technical Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 06-17-2013, 10:12 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Spinelli Props