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  1. #1
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    Smokey 2.4 87 laser

    WIvLL adjusting TPS voltage lean engine to lower voltage.?? OIL injection pump marks seem to be aligned. no snap sluggish response plugs wet. think possible old reeds? its an 87 chromebore good compress all 6 gas mileage terrible in general im stumped, i need help there must be a cure appriciate any ideas. in gear idle rough below 2000 rpm.timing good. could it be the main efi box n/g? guys i need ya!

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    first/early ecu's were mostly junk from day one..... they did make one for a little known bridge port/laser inj. that was pretty good.. jus that they are really, really rare.. best to look to tony b.

    slight chance of being tha tpi but they usually straighten up once ya go off-idle....

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    Quote Originally Posted by tlwjkw View Post
    best to look to tony b


    I would also ditch the oil injection and idle stabilizer box...
    Josh Peterson

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  5. #4
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    yep ditch the oil injection for a start... I've just had to order a brucato acu for my Laser 220, the ecu finally crapped out (was injecting way too much fuel). I narrowed it down by using the multimeter to check injector pulse on the injector wire harness that runs into the manifold. At idle, those 3 injector drivers were running around 80% !

    Is the ignition firing reliably below 2000rpm? (check with a timing light is the easiest method for me). Could be stator low speed windings if the ignition is bad at low rpm. I think CDI's site has a good stator test procedure to follow.

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    At idle itwill slowly load up and die. way to rich i think your correct ecu is bad. im getting about 2-3 MPG! TRYED calling tony # wouldnt accept calls. thanks for reply. what yr is your 220? mines 1987. ART

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    Quote Originally Posted by KIRCHNER View Post
    At idle itwill slowly load up and die. way to rich i think your correct ecu is bad. im getting about 2-3 MPG! TRYED calling tony # wouldnt accept calls. thanks for reply. what yr is your 220? mines 1987. ART
    Mine's '87 also. See if you can find a multimeter with duty/% and check those 3 injector drive wires at the harness that connects into the intake mani (red is common/power, the other 3 colours are the drives). See what duty % it is running - i imagine it should be something like 10% or lower at idle, dead giveaway if it's way more than that.

  8. #7
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    This is assuming you've checked your TPS setting, head temp sensor, intake temp sensor etc. They all will make it rich if they're faulty- first things to check really.

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    temp sensor tests:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    and definitely check if its actually the ignition struggling below 2000rpm, rather than overfueling. I just look for fire/no fire using the timing light

  11. #10
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    Has a new stator idle stab removed and rev limiter i think? still 1 box remains on top behind flywheel there was a box stacked on top of existing box which mech removed. what is that remaining box bunch of wires coming out from bottom? i cant even find head temp sensor. same for air temp! mech said he checked tps voltage but i need to. i should just buy 2 new sensors and be done with those 2 possible causes. i have no way to check advance at high RPM in gear. set it @26' static i can tell u know these motors and cant thank u enough. some times at wot feels like a cyl drops if i stay on it,300 rpm falls off. wait a while and make a pass and back up 6000. all 6 plugs are wet always,but no misfire, just runs rough. GETTING conflicting nbrs on correct tps setting? idle .135-.150v or .003-005v wot 7.46v?
    Last edited by KIRCHNER; 05-24-2018 at 09:58 PM.

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by KIRCHNER View Post
    Has a new stator idle stab removed and rev limiter i think? still 1 box remains on top behind flywheel there was a box stacked on top of existing box which mech removed. what is that remaining box bunch of wires coming out from bottom? i cant even find head temp sensor. same for air temp! mech said he checked tps voltage but i need to. i should just buy 2 new sensors and be done with those 2 possible causes. i have no way to check advance at high RPM in gear. set it @26' static i can tell u know these motors and cant thank u enough. some times at wot feels like a cyl drops if i stay on it,300 rpm falls off. wait a while and make a pass and back up 6000. all 6 plugs are wet always,but no misfire, just runs rough.
    Work out what that last box is, what colour wires does it have? Oil injection has one of them, "warning module" (blk, grn, blu, wht, tan/blu, pur...) - you still have the oil injection right? Good idea to remove it and premix, but probably not likely to be causing this problem.

    Head temp sensor is in one of the holes between the top 2 plugs of each head, 2 wires (at least). If its missing and it's circuit is open (2 tan/blk wires), the ECU will dump in 30% more fuel.

    Intake temp sensor is in the same side of the manifold as the TPS, above it, 2 brown wires. If it's circuit is open it will dump in 10% extra fuel.

    Find those sensors and test their resistance in warm/cold water according to that chart above for a start. It's dead easy to check them with the multimeter.

    26 degrees might be pushing your timing a too far... I'd back it off if I were you. Set WOT timing at cranking speed with all plugs out, plug wires all grounded to the block, throttles wide open (obviously you'll need a buddy). I'd go back to 22degrees or so till you know everything else is good and have been able to index the timing marker to know it's dead accurate.

    There are faaaar more switched on people in here than me who I've learned so much from, but I can comment on the bits I do understand! My old laser has given me a lot to tinker with over the years!
    Last edited by gmacrae; 05-24-2018 at 09:52 PM.

  13. #12
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    ecu temp sensor is in port head.. over temp sensor in starboard head.. tha box I think you are seein' may be tha detonation module.. if it has a connection on one of tha head bolts then that is what it is.. if ya remove it ground tha gray/whit from tha harness that it plugs into....


    tha (ecu) temp sensor can be one of two different sensors.. if two tan and one black its strictly for ecu stuff.. if three wire, two tan and one tan/blue and black...tha tan/blue goes to a temp gauge on tha dash.. it was optional back then
    Last edited by tlwjkw; 05-24-2018 at 10:22 PM.

  14. #13
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    ILL CHECK that last box for ground and ohm out the 2 sensors check TDC back off timing a little. found dash temp sensor 2 tan 1 blue but dont see any ecu sensor in other head? found loose white wire hanging from det box i think it should go to ground. theres a spot for it. gottafind ecu tesensor. thanks for the info. my aetermarket manual is really vauge. thanks again have a good weekend, ART that loose wire was actually gray i grounded it
    Last edited by KIRCHNER; 05-30-2018 at 08:12 PM.

  15. #14
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    http://www.marineengine.com/parts/me...-cylinder-head

    13b should be in port head.. has ta be there for ecu ta do anything with fuel in cold motor.....


    http://www.marineengine.com/parts/me...316-and-up-usa

  16. #15
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    Apparently i dont port from star LOL FOUND ecu temp where you said and air temp brown wires 2 . should i use ohms orvolts for tps? ALWAYS thought . 135;,150 @ idle throttle position.

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