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  1. #1
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    Jet boat wont start-no spark

    im posting hoping that someone else has had this problem.Its a 88 carribean with a 454..Ignition is a mallory dual points setup..Boat ran fine last season,now theres no spark at all.Ive tested with a meter and at the purple ignition wire im only getting 10 volts.At the coil its 9 volts while crankinging,Also the red wire from coil to relay is same,9volts while starting..Shouldnt i have 12 volts ??i was thinking maybe the condenser???? Ill post a few pics
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_20180426_131609.jpg   IMG_20180426_131604.jpg   IMG_20180426_131558.jpg   IMG_20180426_131553.jpg  

  2. #2
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    Lot of corrosion, I would start at the battery check if good. Then start cleaning terminals. Before replacing parts.

    You can generally run a ohms check to see if coils and relays are operational (doesn’t mean working good enough) and might still need work.

    9v is low I can’t remember what mallory needs but some are 10.2 minimum to the box for it to do what it does.

  3. #3
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    I would start by cutting off all of those cheap non-sealed terminals, strip back to good copper, then using a good crimper, install some proper marine terminals...like these: https://www.amazon.com/16-14-Heat-Sh...FQKCX0QSD0KY5R

    Clean the contact posts on everything so you're making good connections, then try again. Connectors like you're using now are OK for a quick fix to get you home or get you through the weekend, but they allow corrosion and will cause voltage drop problems, especially in a marine application.

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  5. #4
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    ive cleaned all connections,checking with multi meter i get only 9 volts at purple ignition wire,9volts at red wire(to coil),and 9 volts coming out of solenoid.Arent i suppose to be getting 12 volts at that red wire coming out of solenoid??The power wire going into solenoid is 12 volts.Voltage drops slightly as i start it..im testing coil now,test on solenoid showed good.

  6. #5
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    With a ballast resistor, you should have about 7 volts to the points running and battery voltage cranking.

    with those types of crimp terminals, you have oxidation in the crimp, which will cause a voltage drop...which likely accounts for some, if not all of your issues.

  7. #6
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    hmm,ive already checked and cleaned all of them.Tested the coil and it checks good also...STILL no spark..
    Last edited by lit549; 04-26-2018 at 07:16 PM.

  8. #7
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    I think you're misunderstanding what I'm talking about with the connections. I'm talking about the connection between the copper wire and the crimp, not the connection between the screw and the terminal.

    If you want to test the crimp connections....you'll need to find a load. You can use a sealed beam headlamp, make up a new jumper wire with a female spade terminal on one end and a ring terminal on the other end. Then make another wire so you can ground the lamp directly to the battery negative. Hook up the ring terminal on your jumper from the headlight to the same screw on the terminal block with an existing wire...and hook the other end of that existing wire to a battery positive...then with your Volt meter set on volts...touch one probe to the battery positive and the end to the screw on the terminal block...your reading will be the voltage drop. Using a sealed beam as your load...any reading over 0.5V means you have a problem.
    Last edited by lbhsbz; 04-26-2018 at 10:02 PM.

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  10. #8
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    Clean the points with an emery board or replace them, also it could have a resistor type wire instead of a resistor externally.

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  12. #9
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    Ground is just as important, need to make sure it's good as well.

  13. #10
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    got it going..I found the ballast resistor was broken so i replaced that yesterday,after replacing that it still wouldnt start .I went through and cleaned all the grounds,charged battery (again),took cap off and noticed the port side point was not opening.I totally missed it,i swear i seen it open and close upon first inspection.I set the gap to .018 and cleaned them..Pumped gas twice and it fired right up,and i must say it ran very good considering it has sat for 2 years..Anyways,thanks for the help..I think it was the points not opening on one side .

  14. #11
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    After it fired up, I bet you said "Ohhh Yaaaaa".
    If I don't ask any questions, I'll never learn anything.

  15. #12
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    Or a guy could just pull the motor, fill the hole and clamp a outboard to it
    1994 Brad Collins Mirage Jag.with 1990 2.4 BP E.F.I Offshore

  16. #13
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    If you have further issues engine or jet drive, Gary Snow right there at Kimball Bend is top notch if he is still turning wrenches.
    Current-
    '89 Allison XB2002 Comp/Pro Center Steer Maroon on Sandstone
    '98 ProMax 225 JSRE
    20" Mid- Jaco's Ally worked SportMaster 1.87 gears
    Past-
    '96 Allison XB2003 PST White w/ Red Tips accent Stripe
    '89 GT175 w/Bob's Bigfoot LWP
    '97 Cobia 22BR 5.7 MercCrusier/ Bravo
    '85 STV Sprint --2.5 Ported Smiling Jacks Horn EFI system 10k+RPM
    '87 HydroStream V-King YT OMC 235 V6
    '77 Glastron CVX16-- Beaver Tyler built V4 Johnson
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  17. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Krazymaan View Post
    After it fired up, I bet you said "Ohhh Yaaaaa".
    Yep,im just glad I won!!lol

  18. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by redstv169 View Post
    If you have further issues engine or jet drive, Gary Snow right there at Kimball Bend is top notch if he is still turning wrenches.
    He's the one who just did a pressure test on it for me..Super cool guy,we are also in the same car club..Yep,hes pretty much a badass

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