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  1. #16
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    Blueprinting back 1/2 of the hull, will def help performance. Mainly check for any variation from side to side as far as hook and rocker. This determines ride attitude, helps stop chine walk. Bottom shape can be.....Hook, nose down...Rocker, bow up.. Most boats have a small amount of hook from the factory and it is not always bad. Rocker can be a disaster, with porpoising making the boat dangerous. Sharp trailing bottom edge and sharp strakes are good for 1-2 mph.

  2. #17
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    Listen to XstreamVking . He knows what he is talking about and he is way better at explaining things than I am . He will not steer you wrong !!!

  3. #18
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    Thanks Capt Bart....I think that most everybody on here has some expertise that they can share. (You are a good example with the cradle) It is best when you have several view points to consider. My experience has been that the more eyeballs on the project the better it turns out. I, and i'm sure the guys asking for help would welcome others opinions and I for one am hoping to see more of it. No one person knows it all... More people, more ideas...

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  5. #19
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    No one person knows it all... Well , there was this one .... ah , never mind !!! LOL

  6. #20
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    Yea! Keep the info coming, I don't know crap HAHA. So I put a level on the pad which in this boats case is only about 3 feet before it start to turn to a small radius and continue progressively getting steeper up to the bow. This boat has a Very small hook, not a rocker pad. The gap was approx 1/16 of an inch or so, very slight. I have to say sofar, the hardest part of cleaning this boat up has been removing the 5 layers of paint on the sides..... It has a white newest layer that has been brushed on, the whole boat had brush marks, then a gray layer what looks to be primer/filler/ then yellow, then another primer then gel, that's not bad where it sucks is removing the bottom paint that's in between all of that at the bottom of the sides, that crap is thick and not smooth at all, it really don't like to come off. its going pretty quick and alot faster than sanding. so at the end the sanding i will be doing will be minimal now. The gray and yellow layers are bonded very well and are smooth. im going to sad down to that and make it all as level as possible. If it comes off fairly easy ill go all the way to gel. Heres a few pics.







  7. #21
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    Careful sanding old bottom paint, some of them have some real nasty ingredients and not good to breathe the dust/fumes.

    Like the way you tie the gunnel's together with 2x2's....did the same with my project boat.
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by W2F a V-King View Post
    Careful sanding old bottom paint, some of them have some real nasty ingredients and not good to breathe the dust/fumes.

    Like the way you tie the gunnel's together with 2x2's....did the same with my project boat.

    The bottom I scraped most of it off first, came off in pieces, I have been wearing a resporator for almost all the work being done.

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  10. #23
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    she is coming along nicely , TwzteD . It won't be long before you have to stop by the bank then head to the fiberglass store . Do they have any good ones up there in St. Lucie or do you have to make the drive to Lauderdale ?

  11. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by capt bart View Post
    she is coming along nicely , TwzteD . It won't be long before you have to stop by the bank then head to the fiberglass store . Do they have any good ones up there in St. Lucie or do you have to make the drive to Lauderdale ?


    I will more than likely be using Merrit marine supply out of the Palm Beaches. Going to start by saying a fresh later of 1708 over the old glass. Does all the bonding material only come in a 5 gal bucket? How much will I need for the core on the bottom and under the deck? The deck is a small amount of core I will get pics of that today.

  12. #25
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    Merritt is a good place to do business . I use their Broward store in Pompano Beach pretty regularly . Another place that I use in Broward is Fiberglass Coatings located in Dania down by Johnnyworld (Bass Pro Shops) and the IGFA headquarters . They have a website at fgci.com if you want to check them out .

    As far as the bonding spooge goes - some sell batches as small as a quart while other manufacturers won't let anything out of the door smaller than a 55 gallon drum . You can even make your own . Something you may want to consider is finding a friend with a vacuum pump and bagging in your core . It is not that much more work , the expense is minimal and the knowledge that the core is bonded as good as it can be bonded will buy you some time on the grey hairs .

  13. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by capt bart View Post
    Merritt is a good place to do business . I use their Broward store in Pompano Beach pretty regularly . Another place that I use in Broward is Fiberglass Coatings located in Dania down by Johnnyworld (Bass Pro Shops) and the IGFA headquarters . They have a website at fgci.com if you want to check them out .

    As far as the bonding spooge goes - some sell batches as small as a quart while other manufacturers won't let anything out of the door smaller than a 55 gallon drum . You can even make your own . Something you may want to consider is finding a friend with a vacuum pump and bagging in your core . It is not that much more work , the expense is minimal and the knowledge that the core is bonded as good as it can be bonded will buy you some time on the grey hairs .

    Yeah, I would actually prefer that and have someone else do it for me. Do you happen to know someone who would do that, all the hard prep work will be done.

  14. #27
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    Using a vacuum bag to clamp a core in is pretty simple and something that you should be able to do . You're basically just sucking the air out of a plastic bag . Vacuum infusion is a few degrees of difficulty more involved but you don't need that . You would be just using the bag as a clamp to ensure a good bond for your core and transom and you hand lay everything else .

    I wish there was someone up your way that I could recommend but it seems that many good glass men eventually either fall into the bottle or fall over dead . All of my friends up that way are out of the business but I'm sure that there is someone not to far from you that has the skills . It's possible that someone on here will see this and chime in . If you are interested you can PM me your number and times not to call and I'll try to get up with you when I get a minute .

    Oh , and like XstreamVking pointed out - there are quite a few members here that have a lot of talent , hopefully some will share their thoughts . There is more than one way to de-fur a feline . I'm no messiah and I damn sure didn't stay at a Holiday Inn last night so don't take everything that I say as the gospel truth .

    capt bart

  15. #28
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    Ok so, now that 99% of the removal of everything I don't need in the boat is done, its almost time for some glass. After i clean up the inside a little bit more, I will be laying a layer of fresh glass, leaning toward 1.5oz mat on the bottom before I proceed with the core. Sound good? 1708 on the sides? and a few layers on the transom as its probably the weakest part of the boat. Im still on the fence on weather to use Poly or vinyl.. I need some info from the people who know more about it. Being this boat is pretty solid as it sits, not like a stream that's paper thin, the boat was originally supposed to run without a core, It has on the bottom a few layers of 1.5 oz Chop Strand & 1708 Bi-Directional +-45 Glass. The overlaps on the 1708 are between each strake with a 4inch overlap. In addition to all that i will be adding another layer or 1.5 or 1708, so do you think I should even add a core or would if be overkill? I do want the boat to be really strong for the ocean. Is poly sufficient or should I really just go for vinyl? the boat will be over built from the get go I think. Like I said the glassing part is pretty much next, I really need to figure out the resin situation before I order some stuff. How would Nida-Core Structural Honeycomb Scored Panel- H8PP https://www.merrittsupply.com/produc...b-scored-h8pp/ work instead of using H80 for the core?

    For anyone interest in more pics of these boats heres a few links with lots of pics.

    http://www.timsharkey.com/bullet130s
    http://www.timsharkey.com/bullet130bysharkey





    [URL="http://s3.photobucket.com/user/sh311shock/media/Mobile%20Uploads/MVIMG_20180506_142118_zpsdpgsqlfx.jpg.html"]



    Last edited by TwzteD; 05-06-2018 at 02:58 PM.

  16. #29
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    I'd use 1708 over 1.5 csm. I think it uses less resin and gives more structural strength.
    Could be mistaken though..
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

  17. #30
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    Does the bottom have any cracking? If no, I would not core it. Maybe just add a layer of 1708 for insurance. Cover it with some light mat where you plan on grinding and /or gelling it. Vinyl is worth the x-tra money imo. Very good adhesion and strength. But, is not a must as long as the surface is clean and ruffed up. Transom is where I would really beef it up for jumping waves and such. Build the trans once and be confident in it not ever failing.

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