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  1. #211
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    Definitely feels solid, Anyone have any tips on "blueprinting" / leveling out the bottom?
    Last edited by TwzteD; 09-21-2018 at 06:17 AM.

  2. #212
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  4. #213
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    Should be done tomorrow. A little putty, a really small 1.5 oz Matt, a 6 inch 1708 and a ripped 1.5oz over the whole thing to blend it in.

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  6. #214
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    On your blueprinting... Mark a line from each outside chine edge port and star across the transom. Measure up to the strakes and the bottom at equal measurements on each side of the transom. See what you have from side to side for variances. This is the starting point. Use a 6' straight edge or string and go fwd on the hull from the measured points on the transom and see what you have as far as hook and rocker. I usually only concern myself with the back 1/2 of the hull. Main thing is to have close to the same shape on each side of the hull. Some hook is good. Rocker will make the boat porpoise. Flat is good since you can add hook to control ride attitude if needed. If it is about 1/16'' to 1/8'' from side to side it will be ok at your speed level. Sharp strakes will def help performance as will a sharp trailing edge.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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  8. #215
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    What he said

  9. #216
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  10. #217
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  12. #218
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    Torn mat makes such a good transition...Something a lot of people don't take the time to do....

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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  14. #219
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    Mat makes everything nicer. It's hard to tell. But the transition from deck to Hull is pretty smooth. Nice and Even. Did a good job.

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  16. #220
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    I would glass in a block of coosa for the bilge pump to mount to. Unless you plan on using silicone to mount it.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  17. #221
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    Quote Originally Posted by XstreamVking View Post
    I would glass in a block of coosa for the bilge pump to mount to. Unless you plan on using silicone to mount it.
    I glassed in a block of wood for everything I mounted in my tunnel hull. DANG - I never thought of just 5200 to hold in my bilge pumps. But that would have worked great. jk!
    A couple rough waves, and that would work it's way loose. Agreed, put a block of coosa down.

  18. #222
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    Not a whole lot of progress but for a few things done, cut the dash out of coosa and got the seat cut out of H80.








  19. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by home made tunnel View Post
    I glassed in a block of wood for everything I mounted in my tunnel hull. DANG - I never thought of just 5200 to hold in my bilge pumps. But that would have worked great. jk!
    A couple rough waves, and that would work it's way loose. Agreed, put a block of coosa down.
    You would be surprised how well some adhesive caulk will hold a bilge pump. Done many that way and never a problem....

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  20. #224
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  21. #225
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