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  1. #136
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    By the time you put the floor on top of that stringer, it will be bulletproof. It may have been ok the way it was since the glass is thick, but it is way better with you adding the stringer. Easier to do it now, and not ever have to pull it apart again.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  2. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by XstreamVking View Post
    By the time you put the floor on top of that stringer, it will be bulletproof. It may have been ok the way it was since the glass is thick, but it is way better with you adding the stringer. Easier to do it now, and not ever have to pull it apart again.

    Thats the plan, Light and strong, and you nailed it, I don't ever want to have to pull it apart again, this is alot of work so doing it right the first time is my goal. If the boat turns out the way I hope, I would like to keep it forever since it wont rot. Small boats like this are cheap to run and it fits in my garage for easy and water free storage. The floor has been glassed on both sides, sanded on both sides and ready to go, i got the Stringer / Knee extensions cut out and rounded on top. The tured out to be just under 3" to compendate for the glass. Not sure why but some of the coosa had hollow spots in it, but i will fill them spots with putty when i bevel the edges of the bulkheads befor glassing them. Unfortunately for this projects sake, that is about as far as im going to get with the project and will be taking a few weeks off unless the wife says otherwise. Baby was supposed to be due this past sunday so as of tomorrow (Friday) we will be in the hospital patiently waiting on her delivery... On a side note, I know alot of people are totally opposed to using foam, with all the research I have done and a few other people I have talked to, im really leaning toward no foam in the rebuild at all, just praying It wont fill up. We will see on that subject though. Here is a few pics in the meantime. I appreciate all the feedback from everyone, any suggestions are welcome, especially from people who have done this type of stuff everyday for a living, im not pro that is for sure so I can use all the info I can get!
















    Last edited by TwzteD; 08-02-2018 at 07:46 PM.

  3. #138
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    The foam is up to you, some will want it some will not... I'm not an expert, but have done more than one or two boat restores in my time, and have dug out more wet foam than dry in the process ( most restores are old rigs anyway ).

    Save for securing a belly under deck fuel tank, I Never use it going back together.... imo..an "air tight" bulkhead will trap air in a miss-hap long enough to get it ashore same as foam. If you do use foam, proper venting will keep the expanding from distorting things....

    Your building one kick butt cool boat !!
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

  4. #139
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    I want to chime on this foam debate. For the last 18 yrs ive been building, rebuilding, repairing, fabricating custom parts, tearing apart boats and boat parts. And Yes foam will absorb water when left exposed and unsealed. After years and years, not like a kitchen sponge. Ive pulled so much out its sickening, some wet, some soaked and some dry. So, as far as using it, Twisted has gone back and forth on it due tothe opinions on here. So I Say this. He doesn't want to sink, the boat byitself should almost float by its self. Ive done a bunch of research on foam lately to have hard facts. 2lb pour foam supports aprox 65 lbs per cubic foot, or 500+ lbs per 1 gal kit (2 gal of foam). 1 gal kit weighs 19 lbs and makes 8 cubic feet. His boats target weight is 350 lbs plus motor 250lbs is 600 lbs no people gear or anything. So a 1 gal kit at 8 cubic feet will be barely enough to float the whole weight of the boat. Not considering the boat should almost float on its own. But to be safe a gallon kit should be squeezed into the boat. Now I think we can squeeze 1 foot or more up in the bow area, and another foot or so on each side of the knees outboard. All in sealed boxes. So I might be at 3+ cubic feet of foam, mathematically not enough to float the motor alone. Ive estimated that we can fit 4ft maybe a little more under the deck. So the only way mathematically to get enough flotation into this boat is to fill under the floor and stringer! Now what if water gets in??? From where? Its going to be sealed, no holes anywhere. Only a crack or a screw or drill can make a hole. If not itll stay dry. Well then you say just leave it sealed, a sealed air compartment is flotation. Well a sealed compartment is only air tight until its got a hole in it, from any reason. A foam filled box will still float with 100 holes drilled in it. But a hollow sealed box will sink with only 1 hole drilled in it. We build a 15 foot skiff that weighed 350lbs, all nidacore, we put aprox 7 cubic feet in it, under the deck, which wasn’t much, and 2 boxes in the back corners under the deck. We sent it to Maryland to be tested,and it met coast guard requirements for flotation, took like 7000lbs to submerge it. They even went as far as to drill holes in our deck and boxes to make sure they were full of foam. So I think I know just a little on the subject. And this is only to keep the boat afloat in the most catastrophic event. You never know what can happen out there, even if its not your fault. And having a boat to float around with is better than it going to the bottom. And it WILL go to the bottom if there is not enough flotation to float it. Math doesn’t lie. Itll take 4+ ft at 65 lbs flotation per foot to just possibly float the dead weight of the motor. Its going to be tricky to fill under the deck with the bulkheads,but it can be done. So I say fill it up, and take care of it and itll never get wet foam in. Do what you will with your builds. Foam floats, no foam sinks, simple math.
    Last edited by Gorilla0178; 08-07-2018 at 10:19 AM.

  5. Likes XstreamVking, W2F a V-King liked this post
  6. #140
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    Glad Twisted has a pro to help decide important items like this
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

  7. #141
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    Not necessarly a "pro". Not sure if that's a shot. But ive torn down and rebuilt a lot over the years, and rarely seen foam sealed up properly. Usually just poured in and left open to get wet and not sealed so a decade later its soaked. He plans on taking this thing offshore and to the Bahamas, if he was on a lake or only going inshore I would feel different about foam, but 20 miles out and get swamped or worse someone or something gets crashed into and god forbid cracks the hull (nothing is unbreakable) and he goes down because there is lack of or no foam in it.

  8. #142
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    No one is taking shots at you gorilla. You are a good guy trying to help someone to have his boat do everything he wants it to do. If going to the Bahama's in it is in the plan, I would foam fill it myself. Good advice imo. Better safe than sorry....

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  9. #143
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    I didn't think it was, especially after I reread it. And I know sometimes certain decisions are hard to figure out. And I really don't want to find out he sinks half way across cause something happens.

  10. #144
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    Not a shot at all. Meant as a compliment to a guy helping someone else do a great job on a cool project.

    That's the problem with reading text vs a verbal conversation...easy to get the context confused.
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

  11. #145
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    No worries. Thank you. Trying to get this boat the way he wants it. And if he's gonna do what he says with it, It'll be built for it.

  12. #146
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    spelling

    Foam or no foam.... Under the floor is still the worst place to put buoyancy in a boat.

  13. #147
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    I never thought Foam would be a controversial topic, I really do want foam for safety and incase of an emergency, only thing I am concerned about is if it ever did get wet, I would just sell the boat because I'm not going to rip out the floor to rebuild it again. I wish there was a way to encapsulate it in like a vacuum bag before sealing it all up.

  14. #148
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    Just as the gorilla has said, when it is carefully sealed up it has a low possibility of getting wet. I have built boats that required up-right and level flotation by the CG. Also did warranty work for Boston Whaler for 13 yrs and can tell you a lot about foam and it's placement. FE: Whalers, while un sinkable do have the tendency to turn turtle when swamped. The bulk of the flotation is under the floors. And I have repaired Whalers that were 20 yrs old and the foam was perfectly dry. Whaler is very fastidious when they build their boats to ensure the foam is completely sealed. Most of the guys on here are inland boaters and don't feel the need for extended flotation times. (like days) and just build in air chambers for limited flotation. Foam it and seal it, and don't worry about it....My 2cts

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  15. #149
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    Well if it helps the boat will always be garage kept and out of the rain and never sit in the water Plus I'm very anal with all my stuff I will more than likely blow out the remaining water if I rinse the inside of the boat out and then Shop-Vac any excess water that is left over like I did when I had my jet ski. I literally blew off everything with compressed air after I rinsed it and sucked all the water out with a Shop-Vac and I will do that with this boat as well so the only water that would end up getting in anywhere would be from a hole on the bottom unintentionally or something puncturing the deck somehow but we are going to pre mount everything that's going to get bolted down like the seats and the gas tank Etc so water intrusion should be at the very minimum as far as chances of getting anything inside. I like the fact that foam will buy me a little time if some mishap were to happen, hey even if the boat did flip over at least it would be something to hang onto as gorilla said I don't have any rivers or lakes around here that the boat will be in it will be mostly either the intercoastal or out in the ocean and I'd rather it not sink right to the bottom immediately give me some time to get to land if possible. I also do plan on keeping the boat for a long long time if it works out the way I'm hoping that is the reason I went with h80 and coosa so I will not have to worry about the boat rottng away over time, but if I have to cut it open 2 r rebuild it again and remove wet foam it kind of defeats the purpose.
    Last edited by TwzteD; 08-08-2018 at 11:48 AM.

  16. #150
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    Stupid question, is there a water proof foam, some kind that doesn't suck up water, maybe layers of styrofoam ???

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