Need help on initial jetting after rebuild Johnson V4 1980 140hp

[Chaz]

FuMP you made a big deal about the heads .... now nuttin ... ???????????

Detox from huffing Royal purple for @ least 24 hr's before posting .
Listen to Mr. Miyagi ....

[FMP]

Did that year 140 have the hiC heads? Spy had a couple V4s on the go.
Is that sufficient?

[spybot]

" or mm? .00078" won't work lol
You probably used SAE feeler gauge not metric. If it's metric and 0.2mm it's too big a gap. Consider up sizing rings .010" KD3510 if available and re fitting with filing after some simple dimension math to check how they should fit in your finished bore. Example a .010 ring will be so much longer resulting in a reduced end gap of x ".

If i had listened to you i would have had my block in bits again.
Thank god i have sense not to take everything thats is posted here as Gospel.
Cheers FMP i just realized what FMP stands for
F.......g Mad Person.

[spybot]

PS yeah the 1980 140 had High Comp Heads

[FMP]

Funny, block in bits. 0.02mm you posted not I , hope you did get in range but you don't know. Never suggested you do anything, only gave a potential option if it were out to the big side. Hope it works for you and try the other jets.

[racervboat]

Like chaz says your motor is basically stock factory jetting will be just fine.My and rj 's power heads are very modded ported scalloped you name it and im running 67 mains with factory mid jets and its a perfect size,im not running a air box cover either but I run my 16 ft Allison very hard as were not out fishing if you know what I mean and never had a powerhead blow up.

[Chaz]

Did that year 140 have the hiC heads?

Somehow that has relevance to you , I can tell ...

Spy had a couple V4s on the go.

Page # 1 , Post # 1 , Pretty detailed list of exactly what he had . What work that had been done . What boat , it's length and weight and that he had a few different props to try . I would have to say , it would be a bit difficult to get lost ....

Is that sufficient?

The truth ... ???? Post # 12 you goobered up every detail about the motor that you possibly could have . ( but no harn , no foul , just typical )

Post # 13 Spy went into what he found that he believed caused his problems .

Post # 14 Good advise from the man who owns one ....

Which really could have been the end of the thread , except for spy coming back to share some video's ..

But no .... # 16 - 19 you got to push for an answer from memory about ring gaps . When he said .020 mm within spec . I'm pretty sure even Ray Charles could see he meant .020" of an inch . I certainly understood that he's not accustom to our units of measurement . He has an excuse , he's on the other side of the pond .

( keeping in mind , Spy just bought his first real hone earlier this year )

As far as your "potential option" .. post up some pictures of your ring filing equipment . I'm partial to the Akerly + Childs . It keeps the ring square to the cutter and with a stock removal gauge , it's hard to take too much .
Do you have a set of dies to hold the ring from fluttering while you recut the locating pin notch .... I cant wait to see what you use for these two operations mandatory to carry out this potential option ...

[FMP]

No Chaz , I mistyped 0.2 for 2.0mm. Just tired eyes

[racer]

IMO you have done enough that I would start with 69C it will help keep temps down on piston while you get the rings to seat. 68C are nearly impossible to find anymore and always better to start a bit fat than to be lean. As for ring gap like Chaz said is good I shot for .018 to .020 inches.

[spybot]

Ordered a set of 69c if its too rich after break in, i could always go down to the 67c.
A lot of suck it and see i suppose.
Glad you guys over the other have my back
Still working on the wiring but hopefully in the water by next weekend.