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  1. #1
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    Rod cap alignment tool

    Hello!
    I just got an OMC Rod cap alignment tool by mail. The tool is brand new, but it didn’t come with any user instructions. The manufacturer refers to a OMC shop manual. The manual I’ve got doesn’t include any such instructions.
    Anyone who are in possession of these instructions? If so, could you take pictures of
    these pages and post them on this board?Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #2
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    instructions

    Quote Originally Posted by Captain75 View Post
    Hello!
    I just got an OMC Rod cap alignment tool by mail. The tool is brand new, but it didn’t come with any user instructions. The manufacturer refers to a OMC shop manual. The manual I’ve got doesn’t include any such instructions.
    Anyone who are in possession of these instructions? If so, could you take pictures of
    these pages and post them on this board?Click image for larger version. 

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    Install Rod Cap Alignment Fixture, P/N 396749, before tightening rod cap screws. Align the flat marked “SET” on the rod engagement stop with the arrow on the frame. Position stop at the center setting (one line showing). Rotate adjustment knob 180° to lock in position.


    1. Center position, one line showing 002484
    Secure restraining jaw “C” and forcing jaw “D” to frame.


    1. Forcing Jaw “C”
    2. Forcing Jaw “D”
    21591/21594
    IMPORTANT: Torquing the screws without Alignment Fixture, P/N 396749, or using an incorrect procedure could cause permanent damage to the connecting rod and crankshaft. To maintain accurate torque values, keep torque wrench extension length to a minimum.

    Apply a light coat of outboard lubricant to the corners of the connecting rod and rod cap. Place frame on connecting rod using the following procedure:
    • Position frame onto the connecting rod so the contact area of the jaw is centered on the side of the rod.
    • Tighten forcing screw until jaws contact connecting rod.
    • Slide frame down until adjustment stop contacts the rod cap. The groove lines on the jaws must be centered on the rod/crankpin diameter.


    1. Adjustment stop
    2. Groove line
    34460
    IMPORTANT: Make sure that frame is squarely in position and that rod and cap are aligned.

    Tighten the forcing screw to a torque of 14 to 16 in lbs. (1.6 to 1.8 N·m). Do not overtighten.


    34461
    Loosen both rod cap screws one-quarter turn.

    Use Torquing Socket, P/N 331638, to tighten rod cap screws in three stages:
    • Apply an initial torque of 40 to 60 in. lbs. (5 to 7 N·m) to both rod cap screws.
    • Torque screws to 14 to 16 ft. lbs. (19 to 21.7 N·m).
    • Apply a final torque of 30 to 32 ft. lbs. (41 to 43 N·m).


    34463
    Loosen forcing screw and remove the frame.

    IMPORTANT: Test at least three corners of the rod and cap joint with a pick. Joint must be smooth with no step.
    You reap what you sow, corny but true.

  4. #3
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    Ssv170!! Great, many thanks!

    //Anders

  5. #4
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    Ssv170...
    Do you by any chance have the pics too?

    This part is a bit hard I think:

    ”Tighten the forcing screw to a torque of 14 to 16 in lbs. (1.6 to 1.8 N·m). Do not overtighten”

    I can’t even find a torque tool that covers as low values as 1nm...
    Someone have a trick up their sleve? Just snug the forcing screw?
    Last edited by Captain75; 04-15-2018 at 11:45 AM.

  6. #5
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    inch pound torque wrench
    You reap what you sow, corny but true.

  7. #6
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  8. #7
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    Being a po Floda boy, I've never used this tool. Does this mean my chit's gonna blow up?
    '71 Glastron V153 - Composite rebuild - Unceremoniously wrecked
    '81 Baja 15 SS - "nine-paged" '77 140
    '81 Carlson C500 Metric - Currently in foster care
    '70 something Speedcraft - Allison 16R clone - Undergoing restoration
    '79 Carlson CVZ 19 - Far back burner
    WALK TALL AND CARRY A BIG BILGE PUMP

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  10. #8
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    ”Tighten the forcing screw to a torque of 14 to 16 in lbs. (1.6 to 1.8 N·m). Do not overtighten”



    The more I think about this, the more strange it appears...
    1.6-1.8; thats almost nothing!? You can almost accomplish that with your fingers!?
    Can this really be right?

  11. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain75 View Post
    ”Tighten the forcing screw to a torque of 14 to 16 in lbs. (1.6 to 1.8 N·m). Do not overtighten”



    The more I think about this, the more strange it appears...
    1.6-1.8; thats almost nothing!? You can almost accomplish that with your fingers!?
    Can this really be right?
    You need a dial style torque wrench for this. Do not use a click type. I will look in my manual and see if I can get something scanned.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  12. #10
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    hasnt the tool got a clutch on the knob?

  13. #11
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    Mine does , have a clutch in the knob .....

  14. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by frank jackson View Post
    Mine does , have a clutch in the knob .....
    Mine was NIB and didn’t have any clutch...

  15. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forkin' Crazy View Post
    You need a dial style torque wrench for this. Do not use a click type. I will look in my manual and see if I can get something scanned. Hey man..You never used the carbs with the stacks, i was moving stuff the other day and found the mold .Hope all is good..Dave

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Hey man..You never used the carbs with the stacks, i was moving stuff the other day and found the mold .Hope all is good..Dave

  16. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain75 View Post
    Mine was NIB and didn’t have any clutch...
    There are 2 versions of the tool - early one had a built in clutch, later one just a 1/4” socket hole for small torque wrench as mentioned. As far as the torque value, I was taught by OMC Master Techs to just use gentle pressure with small 1/4” ratchet, been working perfect
    Matt

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  18. #15
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    The alignment tool the factory used was spring loaded to hold the cap strait.
    Quartershot T-3R 15" 3.5L E-Tec 1.62 Sportmaster


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