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  1. #31
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    Wood is in the boat...might not be the most conventional manner, but it's in and appears to be mostly bulletproof.

    I mixed up about 3 pumps of unthickened epoxy and rolled it on the wood, then grabbed a piece of cardboard and wet out a piece of 1708 in a pattern of the transom wood...and rolled that up. Then mixed up a bit less than a quart of peanut butter and spread that down on the wood, layed the wetted out glass in it and rolled it in a bit, then mixed up another quart of thickened epoxy and start it buttering it on the old glass...but it wasn't thick enough and was tough to keep in place....so I poured it on top of my wetted out glass that was sitting on a bed of peanut butter on the wood...then spread it out, shoved it all in boat and clamped it down. My left and right musta got mixed up because we were pretty snug with the clamp arrangement to begin with, and there was no way I could get the other side in...so I improvised using the hydraulic ram from my engine hoist that I'd removed in favor of an air-over-hydro last week. There are a couple holes where I didn't schmoo ozzing out, but all but one of those have ooze right below the surface. I think I'm good.

  2. #32
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    I really appreciate all your help. Thank you.

  3. #33
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    More progress...I ground out all the bedding putty drips and tabbed in the bottom section last week...ended up using the slow hardener, mixed up some putty...the silica wasn’t giving me the thickness I needed so I went for the micro fibers and that did the trick. I wetted out the glass on cardboard and applied it like tape...tooling it with gloved hands and then a fin roller...before the fairing putty set. It worked nicely. The sides are interesting because there is a decent radius where the transom ties into the gunnels so the wood can’t really fit perfect...so I sort of tapered the filler in there and then layer down the glass. Again, a couple air bubble I need to attend to, but not bad. Most of the light spots are the white filler that got displaced a bit. Any problems so far or does this look like it’ll be good? Once I've got 2 solid layers down on all the seems, plan is to hit it with a DA to soften all the edges, maybe a bit of filler, and sheet to whole thing with 2" or so of tabbing on the final sheet. Then add some bracing. I was planning on 2...tying into a piece of angle on each side that backs up the motor bracket bolts...any advantage to adding a 3rd in the middle? Last picture is one of the sides.Click image for larger version. 

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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 6B2EF7E5-92DF-4B0E-B1E5-4D3E130A8034.jpg  
    Last edited by lbhsbz; 04-30-2018 at 10:46 PM.

  4. Likes Baker343 liked this post
  5. #34
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    Getting closer...

    I have the braces bedded to the bottom and the transom, but I left a 1/4" or so gap where it meets the bottom of the cap and where the cap wraps down over. I'm a bit concerned about making a hard point here that might cause cracking....there is a ski pylon so there will be some stresses. Should I fill these gaps before glassing everything up or should I leave the gaps and just tab it in to allow for a bit of flex?

    Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #35
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    Tabbing should be plenty. Leave the gap. You are correct about the hard points causing cracks. Glass the fronts of the knees 1st, then the sides. Much easier to do it that way. imo

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  7. #36
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    Cool...that was the plan. I positioned them so they lined up with the vertical sides of the keep so I can run a flat piece of glass with no bends to tie in the insides of the knees to the hull...I figured that would be cleaner / stronger.

    How's it looking so far...besides ugly? This is my first "big" glass job.

  8. #37
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    Looks good to me.. Might add some xtra glass where the motor bolts go. Trick to glassing is to be neat with a really messy bunch of materials. Looks like your on your way...Take your time and stay a step ahead...

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  9. #38
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    Thanks. I haven't added much glass in the middle yet...I figured I'd do that after the knees went in. I'm also contemplating adding some angle to back up the motor mount holes and also tie those into the knees with 3 bolts on each side...I'll have some 3" x 1/2" angle, I'll just have to grind the sharp edge on the backside a bit to clear the filet, and then probably, after waxing the hell out of the aluminum, set the mating surfaces in some bedding putty to get good contact, although I'm not sure that's really necessary.

    So far I haven't put on a single piece without getting it wetted out on a piece of cardboard, since epoxy allows me the time to do so...It's made for a lot less mess than I usually make in a mad rush to get poly down and wetted out before it starts to kick. Epoxy was a good recommendation.
    Last edited by lbhsbz; 05-07-2018 at 01:34 PM.

  10. #39
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    If a transom is glassed well enough, no angle or bolts are needed. Concentrate on making a strong glass transom, skip the metal...

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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  12. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by lbhsbz View Post
    Getting closer...

    I have the braces bedded to the bottom and the transom, but I left a 1/4" or so gap where it meets the bottom of the cap and where the cap wraps down over. I'm a bit concerned about making a hard point here that might cause cracking....there is a ski pylon so there will be some stresses. Should I fill these gaps before glassing everything up or should I leave the gaps and just tab it in to allow for a bit of flex?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Your work is really looking good. Not a project that many would attempt. Those braces look pretty beefy, should be plenty strong for this years
    Parker Enduro. Are you going to throw that Bridgeport together.

  13. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baker343 View Post
    Your work is really looking good. Not a project that many would attempt. Those braces look pretty beefy, should be plenty strong for this years
    Parker Enduro. Are you going to throw that Bridgeport together.
    I don't know what I'm gonna do with the BP, but I couldn't pass up the deal...the sleeves are worth more than I paid for the whole deal.

    I'm not racing this boat...maybe Long Beach if you guys need a filler to make a class, but not the enduro. My sponsor is a cheap bastard.

  14. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by lbhsbz View Post
    I don't know what I'm gonna do with the BP, but I couldn't pass up the deal...the sleeves are worth more than I paid for the whole deal.

    I'm not racing this boat...maybe Long Beach if you guys need a filler to make a class, but not the enduro. My sponsor is a cheap bastard.
    The Parker Enduro is definitely not cheap but spilt three ways and sharing the driving duties three ways makes it doable. That 18.6 Lavey would be a runner with a Bridgeport. Running a 2.4 at the Enduro you would need to weigh 1400lbs or more dry without driver. Is your Lavey a lite lay up?

  15. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baker343 View Post
    Is your Lavey a lite lay up?
    Not anymore LOL

    I don't know how much it weighs...I tried to drag it back on the trailer on my own and it felt like it was screwed to the bunks (might be...haven't got that far yet), but it's also got a pair of 15 gallon tanks full of fuel, which is about 200lbs, so that didn't help.
    Last edited by lbhsbz; 05-07-2018 at 03:34 PM.

  16. #44
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    Scribed...great project!
    Gary
    "12" Super Lite Tunnel (11') "88" 25 Yammy twin carb "BANANA SPLIT"
    "77" Hydrostream Viper "87" 140 Rude heavy modded w/15" mid, Bobs nose and lwp "DANGER ZONE"
    "72" Checkmate MX-13 "80" 75 Rude w/15"mid and Nitro Lu (to be restored)

    "Too much is never enough" Keith Richards " Dreams become reality via hard work and perseverance" G.A.Carbonneau

    "This coming from an old man that strapped two bananas together, hung a motor on it and calls it a boat" XstreamVking

  17. #45
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    Me scribbed too!

    Yes great project!

    And good for you to boot the "expurt" guy and do it yourself
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

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