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  1. #16
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    Great looking Mirage, it will be worth all the head ache once complete.

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  3. #17
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    once you recore,reglass and replace the floor you will be glad you did. Great boats.

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  5. #18
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    Keep up the good work and continue to post pics of the progress. Great thread.

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  7. #19
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    Sawsall and grinders are the tools of the trade. BUT.... be very careful to not cut thru where you don't want to. You can zip thru the glass in a couple of secs sometimes. Best advice is to proceed slowly and carefully. Keep the grinder disc flat on the surface. The edge will do the damage.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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  9. #20
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    I stepped up to the Sawzall and boy, I'm saving a lot of time! Xstream, you weren't kidding about being careful! It's easy to get carried away. I easily tripled the efficiency, thank you for the tip!
    I got the starboard knee and stringer removed, and made my way back to the transom. This is where the real work started. I tapped around and thought I picked up a dead spot, but wasn't too sure because the sound wasn't much different than the surrounding area. I cut a couple "windows" and sure enough, more rot. However, it was only a little section. The real work was removing the rest of the wood that was still good.

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    Once the first two layers were removed, the 3rd (bad) layer was exposed, and man was it waterlogged! The last 3" of material near the top is going to be tough to remove, time consuming I should say.
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    There were a few spots I missed when looking at the boat.
    It had some pretty significant stress cracks in the gel on the outside of the transom.
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    It also had some adhesive non skid strips across the transom that I thought looked like weird and unsightly. After removing them I found more surprises. It looks like I'm going to be learning the art of gel coat repair.
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    One thing that's unusual, even with the wood removed, when you tap on the transom from the outside, in the lower mid area, you can hear a slight clicking noise. I don't know if its delamination, or if it's from the overlap of the hull/deck tapping together. In the photo below, you can see how the deck overlaps the hull. Toward the center it looks like the hull goes clear to the top of the deck. It's hard to find information on these boats, so I'm not sure they're constructed.
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    Last edited by 304Mirage; 04-23-2018 at 10:22 PM.

  10. #21
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    Any advice for removing the barrels of the pop rivets from the fiberglass after removing the heads?

    I removed the rub rail that was held on with rivets to get to the deck/hull joint screws. I had to remove the screws to finish cleaning up the surface to install the transom. I tried grabbing a few with pliers and they didn't budge, I didn't want to bust up fiberglass.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails image.jpg  

  11. #22
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    Use drill bit same size as rivet and carefully drill them thru...

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  12. #23
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    Alright, alright, alright....

    I have my templates all cut out so I can transfer them to the board. I ended up using foam for the templates because they're rigid, yet easy to cut and modify. I'm going to put 8"x8" side sections in instead of the original 8"x6".
    The transom center will end up being 2.25" thick, and the two "wings" on the sides will be 1-1/2" thick.
    The next hurdle.. I've realized is it's going to be next to impossible to tuck the cloth around the sides and top of the transom without inadvertently tabbing into the deck.

    There's only a 3/8"-1/2" gap between the transom material and the underside of the deck.
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    Here is the idea.. laminate the transom material out of the boat, wrap it in glass and vacuum bag it? After it cures, roughen up the back, lower sides and lower front then use the thickened epoxy to install it, then laminate the lower section with the cloth?
    The reasoning for doing it this way is that if the deck ever had to be removed, I really like the idea that the deck can be removed without cutting into the transom.
    Or would I be better off to tie it into the deck all around?
    Last edited by 304Mirage; 05-15-2018 at 03:01 PM.

  13. #24
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    I seem to be having a little difficulty with the glassing part.
    I made a few test pieces to practice on.
    I’m using 1700 bi-ax mat with west systems epoxy. All the edges are routed to .25" radius.
    http://www.fiberglasssite.com/biaxia...60-yds-150-00/
    I'm having a problem getting the edges to lay down and creating an air pocket and/or the fibers springing back up around the edges.
    I'm using a fin roller to roll it out out.

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    The test part on the left: on the right side of the part the fibers keep springing back up.
    The part on the right: There were so many air pockets around the edge I had to grind the edge off.

    The mat just seems to be very stiff for wrapping around parts.
    Notes: I accidentally ordered 2oz. CSM and the 1700 mat has stitching to keep the tows from separating.
    Should I not even continue with the 2oz. mat and just order the 1.5oz.
    Is the 1700 with the stitching the correct type of mat for this project?



    The cheapo bondo kit that I bought from the autoparts store to practice with a few months back was way easier to use than this combination. I hate to keep wasting the west systems epoxy at around $100 a gal.

  14. #25
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    Move up to a bigger radius, 3/8-1/2'.' wet the core out and wait for a little while to laminate it. It may be sucking resin out of your glass. As long as the 2oz matt is epoxy compatible, it is fine. 1700 is the correct glass. Some brands are stiff, some are softer. Find a better resin supplier. West is loco on their pricing. Composites one is one company that seems to have good stuff. Check the web for better prices on epoxy. Mas, silvertip etc.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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  16. #26
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    Thank you. I was letting the resin sit on the core for about 5 minutes before applying another coat, then adding more resin, padding it with a brush.
    I'll bump up to 1/2" radius and give it another go this evening.
    I'll also check out other resin suppliers right now.

  17. #27
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    Thank you guys for the guidance and encouragement to keep pushing forward with the project. What a great community you have here!

    I just wanted to post some followup photos of the project.

    I wanted to incorporate thicker knees into the rebuild, and since I was doing this job with the deck installed, I needed some space to fit my hands to glass them to the transom. I cut, pinned and glassed the knee about 2/3 up the back to give me a little extra working space while maintaining enough width for the fuel tank.

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    Next up was replacing the soft core. However, it went a little south here. I didn't realize that the bolts that were fastening the outer sides of the seats were installed through the hull, I thought they were glued in. Well, I ripped the head clear through the top of the tunnel, turning the 1/4" hole into a 3/4" hole. I had to enlist the help of a friend who does this for a living, so while he was in there glassing the holes and doing the gel coat work, we went ahead and installed the new core and and floor for me.

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    Moving on to the back of the boat again..

    Instead of doing a solid floor I wend with 3/4" slats to support the tank, fuel pump mount, fuel filter, and fuel pump.

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    I ordered new windshields from Mirage, but they came pre-drilled and they were about 1/4" short on the length.
    Though I was able to use them as a pattern and just added the additional length.

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    The carpet arrived yesterday, so that's next on the list.

    Of course, I couldn't wait until it was completely finished to see if she ran.

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    I didn't want to fill the tank only to have to drain 27gal in the event it didn't run or something had to come back out, so I only put 10gal of fuel in it.
    Yeah... that didn't last long. Fuel mileage sucks when you're creeping around at 35mph. Wife saves the day. I'm going to hear about this for the rest of the summer.

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    Last edited by 304Mirage; 08-01-2018 at 12:38 PM.

  18. #28
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    Cool, you got it going. Little help goes a long way when the help know his stuff. Looks like a nice job of repair and refinish, replace. Was just wondering where you were with the boat. Congrats on getting it wet again...

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  19. #29
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    Sorry, I didn't mean to leave you hanging on an answer. The hull/deck repairs went well. It was running very poorly so I sent the injectors out to Brucato FIS and they got me all straightened out. It runs very well and gets great mileage. We had an extremely wet summer and fall, so I only had it out 3 times or so. The last time I had it out, my phone fell into the water and I lost the remainder of my photos of the deck install in the cockpit area. Now that it runs well, I'm going to pull the seats, gel coat the floor. I'm not sure if I want to install the carpet. I think the 280 is a little too aggressive, especially with having to start it in gear all the time.

  20. #30
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    Now that the floor is finished, I have to choose a coating. I think I’m going with gel and put the factory blue splatter back in it.
    The floor was done in poly. I’ve been walking over the cured surface and now it’s filthy. In hindsight I should have coated it ASAP.
    Wondering what would be the best way to clean it before applying the gel coat? The surface is pretty rough from the fibers in the glass.
    Should I sand to knock the high spots down? And do I need to apply additional resin over the exposed glass fibers after sanding, before the gel coat is applied?

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