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  1. #16
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    Where can i get a list of part pn# for the correct ignition or be pointed in the direction tp look

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by mercrazy View Post
    a racer told me the fishing motor switchboxes wouldn't turn as many rpms.
    ???

    As far as I know all the swtch boxes are the same. There isno rev limiter built in to the switch box. 90 hp 3 cylinder, 150 2.0, 2.5 260, same switch box...

    I don’t know nuttin’ bout no 300 drag though! Never seen one!
    Josh Peterson

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by 89Talon18 View Post
    Where can i get a list of part pn# for the correct ignition or be pointed in the direction tp look
    CDI’s website is helpful to look stuff up and compare part #’s. They also have a big PDF troubleshooting manual that’s worth twice the price (free!).

    Mallory switch boxes used to be the best, they sold out to Sierra a few years back. The Sierra should be the same. The only parts I’d be wary of is the blue CDI “race” stuff. It must be used as a set and id “digital” which as far as I can tell just means it may or may not get along with your particular flywheel magnets!
    Josh Peterson

  4. #19
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    I using wh-22 carbs with the slosh tubes and baffles which i believe were on the old oval port mod-vp motors. Ive got .086 mains in it know but would like to know what the factory idles where

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 89Talon18 View Post
    Stator is black and im using a green flexplate flywheel.
    I missed that...

    The green flexplate flywheel should be 9 amp. It works with the 16 amp stator too though. If your electrics came from the same motor as the flywheel you have a 9 amp system. There was also a red flexplate flywheel that was 9 amp IIRC...
    Josh Peterson

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by 89Talon18 View Post
    I using wh-22 carbs with the slosh tubes and baffles which i believe were on the old oval port mod-vp motors. Ive got .086 mains in it know but would like to know what the factory idles where
    Probably .046. That’s what the jet charts say for bridgeport (wh-46) and also wh-22 (2.4 200).
    Josh Peterson

  7. #22
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    At this point im thinning its was a pieced together igniton that was on a running motor but not original to the motor it was on

  8. #23
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    Mother Merc was known to throw stuff together using what parts they had on hand. Anything is possible now that time and PO’s have gone by!
    Josh Peterson

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitro_rat View Post
    I missed that...

    The green flexplate flywheel should be 9 amp. It works with the 16 amp stator too though. If your electrics came from the same motor as the flywheel you have a 9 amp system. There was also a red flexplate flywheel that was 9 amp IIRC...
    The 16 amps came green also, I have a couple.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitro_rat View Post
    ???

    As far as I know all the swtch boxes are the same. There isno rev limiter built in to the switch box. 90 hp 3 cylinder, 150 2.0, 2.5 260, same switch box...

    I don’t know nuttin’ bout no 300 drag though! Never seen one!
    Found this on another thread "Not a rev limiter built in. Theres differences in the ohms. The output between stock and high perf is different. The high pref switchboxes have better electronics ( transistors etc.) in them. This will allow a motor to spin at higher RPMs before the spark signal to the coils "brakes down" as compared to the "standard" switchboxes. Stock box will read 14,000 ohms. HighPerf box will read 9,000 ohms."

    Pro Marine sells a Mercury racing High Perf switch box and another that fits 135-200 hp

    Rob Lankford

    1988 20' Action Marine 2.4 200

    Previous owned boats worth mentioning

    1976 17' Action Marine 2.4 200
    1984 20' Action Marine 2.5 200
    1983 17' Hydrostream V-King 2.4 Bridgeport
    2003 LPB STV RR COPY 2.5 280 /300 Drag
    2005 LPB STV RR COPY 2.5 280
    2005 Baja 23 Outlaw 6.2 Mercruiser
    2006 FTP Quarter Shot T3 Race 2.5 200 CARB/2.5 225 PROMAX
    2009 FTP Quarter Shot T3 Race 2.5 280




  11. #26
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    jus gonna throw this out there.. I've turned a35's/a66's, no regulator, green fw with a12's/a14's ta 9 grand on several motors without any problems.... saved $$$.. .. now a 10 grand + motor might be a different story..
    only built a coupla those but did use tha high dollar junk on 'em jus in case...
    Last edited by tlwjkw; 03-22-2018 at 09:01 PM.

  12. #27
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    maybe you're running out of horsepower.
    boat weight, timing, engine height, etc.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by 89Talon18 View Post
    Where can i get a list of part pn# for the correct ignition or be pointed in the direction tp look
    http://www.marineengine.com/parts/me...utboard-parts/

  14. Likes Noah Burns, Ace liked this post
  15. #29
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    Hull weight im not sure on, brochure from the manufacturer says 750. My timing is set to 25 deg wot at cranking speed. CL of prop shaft is 1.25" above. 26p pulls to 7000 rpm and stays. 24p just pulls to 7000 quicker then peters out. Running out of hp is going to be a disappointment

  16. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by 89Talon18 View Post
    I using wh-22 carbs with the slosh tubes and baffles which i believe were on the old oval port mod-vp motors. Ive got .086 mains in it know but would like to know what the factory idles where
    22 factory are.. mains, 1,3,4,6= 074's, 2,5=076's (think most charts show wh 46's on carb BP.. 22's were mostly oval port motors)
    idle, all 44's/46's I think?...........
    jan.... if ya start changin' mains, pay attention no mater what merc actually calls for..........

    25*?.. indexed flywheel or jus number one?
    Last edited by tlwjkw; 03-23-2018 at 04:36 AM.

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