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  1. #1
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    fixing transom to top seam on old witchcraft

    The boat is an old 77 witchcraft with a 175 hp late 80's OMC crossflow outboard and a land and sea hydraulic jack-plate.

    I peeled off (with the intention of replacing) the old cracked rub rail moulding that previously went most of the way to the jack plate and found that the top to deck joint was filled with 5200, I was expecting it be glassed over. There is a pretty big 1/4-3/8 gap where the hand made top and transom don't perfectly match.

    The wood that I can see for the most part looks dry and not that bad per a dental pick. The inside of the transom is still solidly glassed to the top so any water coming passed the moulding and sealant would have soaked the end grain of the plywood.

    So how do I fix this, I am thinking I can inject penetrating epoxy into the seam and then fill the seam with epoxy putty sand smooth and apply a new rub rail moulding.

    The transom is braced to the deck by way of a pair of stainless steel tubes connecting a large plate on the deck to a smaller plate on the inside of the transom. The transom seems solid but it may be this bracing thats actually solid. I did search around the inside of the transom with an ice pick and I cant find anything soft. The boat is light enough that if I push down on the outboard I can lift bow and trailer without seeing obvious flex.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
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    BTW the first 2 pictures are upside down. I swear that they are right side up on my computer. The yellow is the top, the black is the transom.

  3. #3
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    Your way sounds like a good process to seal it up. Should work out well..

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the input.

    I am looking at CPES as the penetrating epoxy from here: https://www.rotdoctor.com/products/product.html

    Followed their epoxy filler to fill the gap. I guess to do it right I need to take off the jack plate so that I can access the top edge.

    Will filler be enough or does it need to be glassed over?


    Quote Originally Posted by XstreamVking View Post
    Your way sounds like a good process to seal it up. Should work out well..

  5. #5
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    Glassed is way better. Grind the edges back just enough that the trim will cover the repair. Saturate the wood with epoxy, add some thickened epoxy to the void leaving it a little low. Cover that with some resin and glass strips. Sand smooth and cover with the trim.
    Last edited by XstreamVking; 03-19-2018 at 11:39 AM.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  6. #6
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    Should I do that to the seam all the way around the boat?

    I don't know if this is how it was made or how it was rebuilt but the entire top to bottom seam is un-glassed all the way around the outside of he boat. The only part where there is a large gap is towards the transom and is well shown in pictures that I posted, most of it has a paper thin gap that is clearly epoxied with glass only on the inside.

    I could post some more pictures if that helps.



    Quote Originally Posted by XstreamVking View Post
    Glassed is way better. Grind the edges back just enough that the trim will cover the repair. Saturate the wood with epoxy, add some thickened epoxy to the void leaving it a little low. Cover that with some resin and glass strips. Sand smooth and cover with the trim.

  7. #7
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    Glass where ever it is not glassed on the inside. Mainly to make it water proof. I would just caulk seal the outside gap under the rail including the fasteners. You could fill with epoxy putty all the way around, but it is prob not needed if it is glassed on the inside.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  8. #8
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    So now that I am replacing the transom and eliminating the splash well, what is the best way to do the splash well?

    I have made a couple of hatches by casting them in foam and I have considered casting this first and then grafting it in place that but I think I would like to form it in place.

    What I have in mind is to glue in a plastic of foam casting plug on the underside of the top that more or less has the 2 radius's and then seal over it with packing tape so that I can get it out then lay glass and resin on top of that making a joint to the original top. Finishing this then pull off the bottom and reinforce the underside.

    Any suggestions on how to do this (what I am describing above or any technique?

    Thanks

    The attached picture
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  9. #9
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    Few questions. Are you wanting to go full height with the transom? Will you be using a longer shaft motor, remount the plate? Do you want to keep the shape like the fwd deck piece where it goes down at the sides? Your thinking is correct on how to do it, just need a plan to make it the easiest way possible and still be tough.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  10. #10
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    Absolutely full height on the transom. I haven't picked a mounting bracket so I am not sure where where the plate will need to be mounted. The full transom height from bottom of keel to top of cap is 23.5" and I plan to use the 20" motor I already have. I am going to full flatten the center of the well I didn't fully cut the fwd portion of it yet since I am worried it will be too weak as I am working around the transom and prone to breaking if I bump it.

    Since the portions I am replacing will be completely flat with just 2 lips my neighbor has suggested filling the well by flush mounting G10 tabbed into the top then faired and blended in. I am thinking I will do this after the transom is in since the cut out well gives me access to get clamps in there. I will probably first tab the top to the rear glass on the inside before doing the transom.

  11. #11
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    If it will be full and flat I would recommend using some 1/2'' melamine board fitted under the well and behind the trans and cockpit coaming faces. Screw it together so it holds it's shape and stays in place, wax or pva it and them glass over it with some 1700 biaxial glass lapping up onto the existing deck and trans.. Other option is to make a mold on the outside surfaces of the trans, coaming and the well top, (same melamine board) pull it off and build your part on the inside of that using gell ,glass, foam and more glass. Cut this pc to fit, and glass into place. The molded pc will require lots less fairing to look good.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  12. #12
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    Thats a good idea with the melamine. I will try and get some more pictures up tonight.

    What do you think of the idea of using g10 for the rear glass portion where the cutout is? I am thinking that once the transom is in place I can cut a piece of G10 to epoxy to the transom that will be blended in and glassed on the outside.

    I have never had good luck making large repairs on vertical surfaces.

    Another idea, since I have more than enough coosa and since I am going with a full height transom I could put in a coosa top brace and have that meet the knees coming up from the strakes and butt into the top of the transom like a shelf. It would add the strength back that I am taking out by removing the splash well. The coosa could then be used as the form for the cosmetic splash well replacement.

  13. #13
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    I think I am about 60% through with the prep. I am somewhat surprised that the prep takes so much longer than the demo. Primarily using an angle grinder with a 40 grit flap wheel and 36 grit sanding disc.

    Last edited by colinJ; 04-15-2018 at 11:02 PM.

  14. #14
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    Question, is epoxy compatible 1708 a waste of money when used with epoxy as opposed to 1700, 1800 or 24 oz woven roving?

    I am making a shopping list:

    1. 4-5 gallons of laminating epoxy, looking at various suppliers
    2. About 50' x 3' of either 1708 or 1700 or similar. Would prefer one or 2 products that I can use for all laminating and tabbing.
    3. A few yards of light weight cloth for finishing
    4. Chopped strand filler and fumed silica for peanut butter
    5. About a pint of epoxy fairing compound for finishing.
    6. An aluminum roller and brush roller
    7. Various, tongue depressors mixing tubs, plastic putty knifes that I can buy locally.

    I already have 3/4" coosa as the core material.

  15. #15
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    Use the 1700 and no mat. Not needed with epoxy. Cloth for finishing is good. Do not use heavy roving... I don't think I have ever used G-10. Is epoxy resin is compatible? I would use the heavy density coosa (26) for the trans and deck. Only thing missing from list is some alcohol for cleaning tools etc. Install the transom, then do deck repair....

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  16. Thanks coffeeguy thanked for this post
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