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  1. #1
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    Need Recommendations for Seat Mounting - Allison

    Doing a period-correct (to the extent practical) restoration of a 1979 Allison GT-20. Just got it back from Jack’s place in FL and have a bare floor to work with. I have the original low back bucket front seats which have been recovered and look great. I don’t want to screw the seats directly to the floor...I’d rather use a platform of some kind (that can be permanently mounted to the floor) and mount the seat to the platform w/ bolts, thereby allowing removal when needed.

    How are you guys mounting seats that can easily be removed and then put back without making your floor into “Swiss cheese”?

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    I just picked up a pair of these to mount the seats in my Liberator. Just what you were talking about, Swiss cheese into the balsa core is correct. I'm hoping to be able to remove the seats to get under the deck easily. I'll let you know how they worked as soon as I install them.

    Springfield Marine Boat Removable Seat Mount 185969



  3. #3
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    Can you get to the bottom of the floor? if so, stainless T-nuts.
    '71 Glastron V153 - Composite rebuild - Unceremoniously wrecked
    '81 Baja 15 SS - "nine-paged" '77 140
    '81 Carlson C500 Metric - Currently in foster care
    '70 something Speedcraft - Allison 16R clone - Undergoing restoration
    '79 Carlson CVZ 19 - Far back burner
    WALK TALL AND CARRY A BIG BILGE PUMP

  4. #4
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    Someone turned me on to these many years ago and they are great for seat mounting. Very strong and keep in mind that your going to use 4+ so the strength is much greater than the individual pound rating. Can't remember the exact size but just get the largest screw in stainless!

    http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php

  5. #5
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    Look into these. I haven’t used them but others on the site have.

    http://www.weldmountsystem.com/produ...less-studs.php

    Another option is to fiberglass an aluminum or stainless plate to the floor. Have studs or threaded holes in the plate.
    Made aluminum plates with threaded bosses that the seat can bolt to. Going to glass them in. The advantage of a threaded boss is you can do varying heights to make the seat angle as you like.

  6. #6
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    Hole-saw a hole big enough to reach through & thru-bolt with stainless locknuts & double stainless flat fender washers. Hole saw the floor and the plate.
    Last edited by FUJIMO; 03-19-2018 at 10:02 AM.

  7. #7
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    Good idea can you post a link where to buy those

  8. #8
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    I used to glass a piece of 3/4" plywood same size as seat bottom to floor with t-nuts. last for a long time if done correctly and you don't have to drill your new floor
    2005 APR FORMULA 2 ROOKIE OF THE YEAR

  9. #9
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    Note; My idea will not work, if you first determine there is not enough room under the floor panel, to at least, slide in a wrench, washers & nut. So check this out first before cutting anything. Amazon & Ebay both show each slide assembly at about fifty dollars each, shipped. Great Lakes Skipper at thirty-five dollars each, plus shipping. May the force be with you.

  10. #10
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    Another method to consider "before" glassing down a new floor, is to pre-determine seat & seatbase locations...and glass a piece of 3/8'' aluminum, that has been drilled/tapped, under the floor panel. I've glassed in small pieces and large full-size aluminum sheet, depending on style of boat(stand-up bolsters & frames, bucketseats, etc...)

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  12. #11
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    You can glass some 3/8'' alum into the floor on top too. Just drill and tap for the seats to screw down into after glassin.....Plenty strong and will not stick up at all if you recess them flush into the floor before glassing.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
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