Mercury 1994 2.0L 150

[Glastron1987]

Thanks for all of the good ideas. For now I did get the motor upside down without killing myself (so far). Will give the PB-Blaster a try over the next week. Just as a note, before getting to this I had pried the heck out of both the two front and two rear studs with bars, without a budge, but did not try the "back-down the nuts" method. That may be worth a try.

[gmacrae]

I had to remove my powerhead from the mid a couple years back, pretty sure it had been on there since '87, probably in salt and all. I got lots of suggestions from people in here but the only thing that did it was this exact process (would love to buy a beer for whoever explained this to me!):

The 4 longest studs were the main problem for memory, but I did this to all but the shortest (2-3")studs

You can use the 2 short rear studs to wind a nut down onto a couple of sockets or similar to pry the PH upwards (easier to really load it up this way than by lifting the motor). Keep these loaded/tensioned up so the powerhead lifts when you finally get it un-stuck.

Hold the gas torch on the end of the stud for about 10 minutes, aim to get the stud as hot as hell, to help dry the seize out, then hit the end of the stud with the air chisel with a V shaped chisel on it, so it's easy to hold pressure on the stud without slipping off (you'll destroy the threads obviously). Hold the chisel on the threads/stud for literally 20 minutes or so, if you got enough heat in the stud you should eventually see what looks like smoke start to pour out of the stud hole. It's the calcification turning to dust due to the heat and vibration. After a while you'll see a gap forming around the stud if you look up it. The longer the stud, the more heat and air chiseling it'll need. Repeat heat/chisel/heat/chisel on each stud till the smoke/dust stops.

Eventually when you've been doing this for hours it should come free, but if it's anything like mine, expect to be there a long time. I don't imagine any amount of penetrating oil/anti-seize would have done it. There is a lot of material sticking those long studs in place.

I can't stress enough how time consuming and boring this process was, but it worked! And s**t I was grateful for having it explained to me! Hope it helps

[Glastron1987]

What kind of torch did you use for that.. propane, map, oxy-acetylene? The best I could do with only the propane was to get the studs to about 400 degrees. I think because of how the heat dissipates. Haven't tried anything hotter yet though.

[gmacrae]

Yeah I just have a little bottle torch like this - did the trick tho

[Glastron1987]

On day 5 with it hanging upside down. 1-2 times per day I've been applying PB-Blaster, and the air hammer. Also, I did get wedging in the two back studs using the nuts and spacers. Nothing moved yet.

I'll give it a few more days like that, then probably will combine the heat and air hammer.

[FMP]

Drink a dozen beer and give her a hug

[Glastron1987]

It’s been upside down now for over a week. Just about every day I’ve applied PB-Blaster and used the air hammer on and around the two long studs. Also, I’ve applied heat from an oxy-acetylene torch. Still have the two nuts in back wedged with tension and pried with a wrecking bar in front.

Nothing seems to have budged even a little bit. The only thing I’ve noticed is that when I hammer around the studs at the mid-section level, the sound has changed to a much higher pitch which hurts my ears. I think that may mean that the mid-section may be more free than it was. Unfortunately, both top and bottom plates need to free up as well.

What I may try next is putting it back right-side-up, heating it again, then hammering it again, with a bigger compressor. The 3 gallon pancake doesn’t hold much air for the hammer. That may be my last step before cutting into the plate(s).

[Glastron1987]

Found a way to hang the motor upside down on the lift and force some tension from beneath by using a bar attached from underneath. Think this is how someone pulled the studs right out of the powerhead, so I won’t go too crazy with the tension.

… and now I have a big air compressor so can use the air hammer much more continuously. Also, I heated the long studs with the oxy-acetylene torch until they were red/orange a few times.

After the first session with the better air, plenty of PB-Blaster and the new tension, there is still no sign of budging.

After a couple more session like this spread over the next few days with no budging and the drill is coming out.

[gmacrae]

I think the pb blaster is a bad idea. You’re trying to dry the studs out so the corrosion/calcification can turn to dust and come out - don’t think the pb blaster will be helping that

[nitro_rat]

Have you considered purchasing another motor from a freshwater area? Around here V6 Mercs come up for giveaway prices occasionally. I’m getting worried that you’re expending too much of your life essence on this project!

Whip out the death wheel already and chop it into submission!!!

[Glastron1987]

You're right. I'm ready to cut. I was going to use a drill, but is there a better tool to use?

[Bruce2]

Die grinder with a cut off wheel on it..

[nitro_rat]

Die grinder with a cut off wheel on it..

Yep, that’s the DEATHWHEEL!!!

[nitro_rat]

[rock]

Looks to be pretty accurate.

Rock