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  1. #76
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    Ah, yes I had. Thanks.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #77
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    Well, separating the powerhead from the midsection is turning out to be difficult. I sprayed PB blaster everywhere and applied the heat gun to each of the 10 stud areas, raised the hoist so that the motor stand was just off the floor, then pried at the studs (with the nuts) pictured below, and the two rear ones not pictured, on both sides. Nothing seemed to hint at any separation occurring. Is it usually those 4 longer studs that cause the issues? Maybe I should try a torch on those 4?

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  3. #78
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    You need to take those 2 nuts off the studs back of the motor or powerhead will not come off..the nuts under the heads...if im seeing that picture right.

  4. #79
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    They are loose enough so the powerhead should at least budge, I left them on for prying so the threads do not get ruined.

  5. #80
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    If it is the longer studs holding you up???
    The Best tip I ever got on this was to use an air chisel(gently with control) with a blunt round bit to impact on the bottom of the studs. The impacting breaks the corrosion free. Even better if you happen to have a rivet gun. Looks just like the air chisel but has much more control.

    Never had much luck with heat.

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  7. #81
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    I see how an air chisel may work, but not clear how a riveter would. Of course I have neither, but I do have a couple of nailers. How would that work?

  8. #82
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    Might as well drop the lu if you haven't. Give the ph some hard kicks to the top sides with the bottom of your boot.

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  10. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glastron1987 View Post
    I see how an air chisel may work, but not clear how a riveter would. Of course I have neither, but I do have a couple of nailers. How would that work?
    Don’t see how a nailer could work.

    The rivet gun I’m referring to is for bucking rivets, not a pop rivet type riveter.

    Can get a cheap air chisel at Harbor Freight, won’t have good control with the trigger though so be careful. The trigger is more like an on/off switch.

    Rivet gun will cost quite a bit more, they have excellent control. Their trigger is designed to have control and can regulate the hits it gives by the feed of the trigger.

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  12. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by FMP View Post
    Might as well drop the lu if you haven't. Give the ph some hard kicks to the top sides with the bottom of your boot.
    i just got this picture in my mind of somebody going all karate crazy kicking their powerhead!

  13. #85
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    First a splash of High Karate then tunes, Everybody was Kung Fu Fighting!

  14. #86
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    Go get 2 thin nuts to fit the studs thread them on the studs and jam the two nuts together and try to break the stud lose to remove it..just an idea.

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  16. #87
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    Thanks for the tips. My karate is rustier that the studs. Also, not sure how two nuts will work. I'll plan on picking up an air chisel and see how that works.

  17. #88
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    Guess you' have it on a stand. If you could keep it from tipping , bolt it to the floor, and shake the crap out of it by grabbing the top of the ph till it breaks. Could always put it all back together and take it for a 5 min ride in a chop with the nuts loose.

  18. #89
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    Just ordered a used mid-section, long versus the x-long that the powerhead is on now. The number listed for my motor in the long is 8343A10. I ordered an 8343T10. Did I mess up and will have compatibility problems?

  19. #90
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    Tried impact hammer to the studs, and a (small) sledge hammer and block to the bottom midsection, and some more weight on the stand with the hoist above. No luck separating the powerhead from the midsection yet.

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