Mercury 1994 2.0L 150

**tlwjkw** · 03-31-2018, 03:31 PM

part no.

91-77109A 3

ya, more than likely, gonna need it again...................

**Capt.Insane-o** · 03-31-2018, 04:48 PM

Looks like a good luck marine piston.

**Glastron1987** · 03-31-2018, 08:29 PM

Great to get the tool number if I do end up doing more than this one piston. I did end up finding a youtube video that showed a technique that was easy enough for me to follow. You put one end a ways past the notch, so that the other end just passes the notch. Hold the whole thing down while placing a small screwdriver in the notch and pry it towards the center from the top. That was a lot easier than the two other techniques I saw people use.

As for the piston, I have confidence it will work for me, but I would expect a dealer would have used a full replacement part.

**Glastron1987** · 04-07-2018, 01:45 PM

Got #3 piston back in with new rings. I did reuse the cap bolts with a drop of red #271 loctite. If not for the extra shipping cost on two bolts I (ideally) would have used new ones but since others have had good luck reusing them I have high confidence it will hold together. They torqued nicely, incrementally, to 30 ft/lbs. I was surprised how well it all went back together, and a long pair of needle-nose pliers helped a lot getting the lower rod bearings in place. One thing I did not like is that with the intake still on, I could pencil check the cap mating pretty well on one side, but not on the other. I’ll double check that later when I pull more apart for de-rusting. It does seem to spin well though. Next step will be to put the head back on. Can’t wait to try that compression test again.

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**Glastron1987** · 04-08-2018, 02:55 PM

#3 compression looks solid now, right with the others!

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**Glastron1987** · 04-09-2018, 06:40 PM

So now I've got the 10 powerhead nuts and bolts off. If I just lift with a hoist should the engine along with the exhaust plate easily come off or should I expect to have to rap it and heat it up? Any tricks that will help?

**rock** · 04-10-2018, 07:00 AM

Should be 10 nuts, no bolts. Powerhead will lift off but you will need to remove 5 bolts and motor mounts( 2 more nuts and bolts ) to remove adapter unless you are on a 1 pc plate. If motor has been in salt you may need explosives. When I get one that wants to stick I pry on one of the two front studs and/or rear 4 studs being very careful not to damage threads. Put a little load on lift ring while prying.

Rock

**Glastron1987** · 04-10-2018, 07:16 AM

Oh yes, I rechecked, it was 10 nuts. So would plate come off after motor is lifted off or before? I'm thinking lifting off motor first then worry about the plate.

**nitro_rat** · 04-10-2018, 07:19 AM

Plate comes off after powerhead

**tlwjkw** · 04-10-2018, 07:23 AM

be sure to take tha shift shaft loose at tha anchor bracket.. my achilles heel!

**rock** · 04-10-2018, 07:48 AM

Originally Posted by tlwjkw

be sure to take tha shift shaft loose at tha anchor bracket.. my achilles heel!

I am glad I am not the only one.

Rock

**Glastron1987** · 04-11-2018, 07:42 PM

It looks like there is a pin that needs to be driven out through the shift arm that is very difficult to get at. Does that sound right?

**tlwjkw** · 04-11-2018, 09:25 PM

no...

7/16's nut/glide block on anchor bracket......

**W2F a V-King** · 04-13-2018, 04:21 AM

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The short stud sticking up is where the shift cable attaches to it. That's the 7/16 nut he is referencing to. Just take the nut off and it will stay with the mid section when you pull the power head.