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  1. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by FORBESAUTO View Post
    A little slop in the splines is common. Chaz on here makes a fix for that called a slop stopper or something of that sort. Contact him and he can hook you up.
    I'll check with Chaz, but not sure what that can do that a couple of bolts can't.

  2. #227
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    Sorry, a little confusion in terminology there. I meant the yoke as the aluminum part I was referring to as the swivel. Like Bruce2 and FORBES were saying there, I still some slop in mine with a new to me used, but visually unworn yoke and brand new steering tube. It wasn’t much, but I could “jiggle” it a small amount. After I was able to use a shop press to get the cut stub out of the yoke, the old corroded part had noticeably more play than the replacement one.

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  4. #228
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    This is my "on-the-cheap" solution to the swivel pin wobble. Two 5/16" x 3/4L SS bolts through the pin and the yoke. Had to cut/grind the heads of the bolts rectangular so they would fit in there OK. Put some blue Loctite instead of lock-washers. I may go red on that. We'll see how it does.


    Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitro_rat View Post
    Mig a nut to the top. Just set it up there and fill up the center with weld. Should turn out easy once it cools down...
    Just have a stick welder, but used the basic idea. Am preparing the mid-section for mounting and there was this one mount bolt which the head was broken off. Rapped it with a hammer and added some PBblaster for insurance but bolt came out nice. Great idea... thanks again.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #230
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce2 View Post
    I would do the upper mounts solid if i was only to do 2...
    Got my quote today for a small local shop toturn some mounts out of delrin... $100 each. So not a good option for me. Stillneed to paint the replacement mid-section but as soon as that’s done it should beready to mount. Thinking about it, I am wondering what the loaddistribution is on the upper versus lower mounts. I was thinking that when thelower ones are loose it would cause more steering problems because they arecloser to the skeg which controls direction. Although I hear more complaints aboutthe upper ones needing replace because of looseness.

  8. #231
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    Quote Originally Posted by Merclover View Post
    I would go with OEM if u don't want solids , OEM is rubber with a metal "housing"
    Would you say the OEMs are pretty firm and durable compare to aftermakerts? Good for 65mph?

  9. #232
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glastron1987 View Post
    Would you say the OEMs are pretty firm and durable compare to aftermakerts? Good for 65mph?
    What hull is this going on? People run stock mounts on fishin' boats at 65 mph (and more) all the time. I would want solids on a small pad v performance type hull.
    Josh Peterson

  10. #233
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    how much do the want if you supply the material?

    Quote Originally Posted by Glastron1987 View Post
    Got my quote today for a small local shop toturn some mounts out of delrin... $100 each. So not a good option for me. Stillneed to paint the replacement mid-section but as soon as that’s done it should beready to mount. Thinking about it, I am wondering what the loaddistribution is on the upper versus lower mounts. I was thinking that when thelower ones are loose it would cause more steering problems because they arecloser to the skeg which controls direction. Although I hear more complaints aboutthe upper ones needing replace because of looseness.
    Daddy taught me to never force anything but to just get a bigger hammer.


    1995 19'0" Champion bass boat
    1995 200 XRI

  11. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitro_rat View Post
    What hull is this going on? People run stock mounts on fishin' boats at 65 mph (and more) all the time. I would want solids on a small pad v performance type hull.
    It's a 1986 Glastron CVX-17. It's a 17'7" boat weighing about 875lbs w/o motor. I believe there is somewhat of a pad towards the back bottom. Its rated for 140hp. This is a 150 I'm reassembling. When complete, the motor should be pretty stock except probably for some composite reeds, and maybe some stuffers. It runs now in the 40-45mph range with a 1984 Mariner 75hp (2/3's of tower-of-power). So my guess is that it will do no more than about 65mph when complete. Although 45 seems pretty fast being so close to the water, it also seems the boat could handle some more speed, but I want to be safe about it.

  12. #235
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    Actaully that was not speced out in the quote, but that is a good question. I will try to find out. They did say that the UV resistent material was very expensive compared to the Acetal and Delrin black and white, which were about the same. This was a quote just for the lower ones for now. Also, I had assumed starting with 2" stock thinking that the middle section would not require any machining. One other thing is that quantity would drive price down significantly, but not sure of what that volume is.

    Also I am realizing that even at $100 it is not much different in price than the OEMs. Seems the best bargain by far is to go with the aluminum.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce2 View Post
    how much do the want if you supply the material?
    Last edited by Glastron1987; 08-08-2018 at 07:09 AM.

  13. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glastron1987 View Post
    It's a 1986 Glastron CVX-17. It's a 17'7" boat weighing about 875lbs w/o motor. I believe there is somewhat of a pad towards the back bottom. Its rated for 140hp. This is a 150 I'm reassembling. When complete, the motor should be pretty stock except probably for some composite reeds, and maybe some stuffers. It runs now in the 40-45mph range with a 1984 Mariner 75hp (2/3's of tower-of-power). So my guess is that it will do no more than about 65mph when complete. Although 45 seems pretty fast being so close to the water, it also seems the boat could handle some more speed, but I want to be safe about it.
    I would say your very close on your mph guesstimate at 65mph, mine is around 800-850 with out motor and with stock 2.0 150 ,ran 65 all day long, but I tried many props and couldn't pass that mark,,,sooo. Went to 200,,,also keep up good work ,

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  15. #237
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    Setup is where the main cost is at in a machine shop. On the 2 inch white alls we had to do was turn the diameter of the ends to fit for the lowers. The uppers i had a smaller diameter piece i had bought and still had to turn them down. I had to buy 2 foot pieces of both material when i bought the stuff so i have plenty of delrin left over...lol
    Daddy taught me to never force anything but to just get a bigger hammer.


    1995 19'0" Champion bass boat
    1995 200 XRI

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  17. #238
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    $90 if I supply the material. Also, I asked how many would have to be made to get the price down to $60 but no answer on that yet. The merc delrin ones are starting to look like a good option, or a much cheaper set of the aluminum ones.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce2 View Post
    how much do the want if you supply the material?

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  19. #239
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    Started to paint the 20" mid-section today after prep yesterday. First picture is just as the etch primer is being applied, then a picture with 3-4 coats complete... roughly one spray can. If the paint is as durable as the smell is strong, it should hold up great. Hopefully will apply 3 or so coats of black tomorrow.
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  21. #240
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    ...and here it is after 4 coats of color and 4 coats of clear.

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