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  1. #211
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    Doing that i would think it would be hard on the lower trunion that's on the steering tube....possible promote accelerated wear on the splines. There's someone in propellers that has a set of solid mounts for sale cheap.

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  3. #212
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    Thought I read a post that said adding just two solids would firm up the handling. Also saw a post that said never mismatch them.

  4. #213
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    I would do the upper mounts solid if i was only to do 2...

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  6. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce2 View Post
    I would do the upper mounts solid if i was only to do 2...
    Now that I already ordered the OEM uppers, I was wondering if that would be better.

  7. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glastron1987 View Post
    I just bought two OEM mounts for the top and plan to use solids for the bottom. Anyone else do this? How did it work out?
    I thought about it. My thought was if I turned the bolts, it would be easy enough to replace if I didn’t like them. Well, after looking closer at the brackets that clamp the mount, I saw one had hairline cracks through it. It broke in alf with light hand pressure. I don’t know if the harder delrin would be harsher or softer on that. People run solids all of the time without issue, so I don’t think it would be a problem. The slop in mine probably caused the cracking. Def check them for cracks though. I thought I only had one cracked. I could only find them sold in pairs for a good price. When I got them and compared the condition to the other original and found it was cracked too. Glad I had both.

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  9. #216
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    I did still turn the bolts around to be able to replace the lower mounts without cutting bolts or complete disassembly since they were in far worse shape than the uppers. I figured I could replace just them way easier if they were to go bad again.
    Last edited by Capnmoench; 07-21-2018 at 10:12 AM. Reason: Worse shape than uppers* Beer.

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  11. #217
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  13. #218
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    What it the correct way to install the spacer on the bottom of the steering arm? Flat side down with the extrusion up towards the o-ring or flat side up with the extrusion down towards the yoke?
    Click image for larger version. 

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  14. #219
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    Think I got the swivel together right and was getting excited about finally selecting some mounts and starting on the mid-section, but noticed the yoke is a little lose on the bottom of the steering arm. Seems like it wouldn’t matter what mounts are used that this will cause a bad control problem. I see some nice parts to fix this, which I am sure are expensive. Is just drilling through and putting in a bolt or two a good idea?
    Click image for larger version. 

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  15. #220
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    My bottom swivel has play it it also on my 135, but after putting the delrin mounts in it it does not seem loose now...I have heard of welding it to the shaft...The swivel piece is about 50 bucks for a really nice one and the steering tube is about 300 bucks...

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  17. #221
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    I had both a new swivel and steering tube when I did mine. That tube was the reason I had mine apart to begin with. It was really rusted. I had to cut my swivel off because they were seized together. I would think the softer aluminum swivel is what’s worn though. You could start with that and see if it takes up the play.

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  19. #222
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    A little slop in the splines is common. Chaz on here makes a fix for that called a slop stopper or something of that sort. Contact him and he can hook you up.

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  21. #223
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    The do make a billet swivel bracket..

    I was told even with new shaft and steering tube i would still have slop..

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  23. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce2 View Post
    My bottom swivel has play it it also on my 135, but after putting the delrin mounts in it it does not seem loose now...I have heard of welding it to the shaft...The swivel piece is about 50 bucks for a really nice one and the steering tube is about 300 bucks...
    Sounds like maybe with the top solid mounts it relies less on the bottom being tight.

  24. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by Capnmoench View Post
    I had both a new swivel and steering tube when I did mine. That tube was the reason I had mine apart to begin with. It was really rusted. I had to cut my swivel off because they were seized together. I would think the softer aluminum swivel is what’s worn though. You could start with that and see if it takes up the play.
    My swivel seems is in great shape, the swivel pin in the bracket is almost like new and is snug. It's just where he yoke meets the bottom of the pin where seems loose, maybe a little rusted there.

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